ARID E18 reactor (Phosphate Control!!!)

I am trying to convert simple reactor for this method
What color leds would work for it

I'm also interested in DIY-ing something similar. However, I think the most difficult part will be the LED cooling... I could not find anywhere(ebay, Chinese online) such a metal rod and heatsink...
 
I'm also interested in DIY-ing something similar. However, I think the most difficult part will be the LED cooling... I could not find anywhere(ebay, Chinese online) such a metal rod and heatsink...
it appears to be a copper pipe with a heat sink mounted on one end, should be fairly simple to diy.
 
Do you get any cyano inside the reactor or is the flow through sufficient to ensure it doesn't occur. My refugium does a great job of keeping nitrates and phosphates in check but I can't ever seem to create enough flow in it to keep the cyano in check.

I do have cyano in my reactor. It is the only place I have cyano in my whole system so I am fine with it being there.
 
I am wondering on the sizing they use. JB NY, you were saying you are not getting the same growth as before and I am wondering would you have been better to go with a smaller unit? My thoughts are similar to those ATS, the people running them and who built them found bigger was always not better and there was for sure size issue. There was a great reduction in size recommendations from when it first started. The reason I am asking, is I have already contacted the company and really like this idea, but I stumbled across some board and people where have issues with getting good growth. The model they suggested was the E or C 24, but my thoughts is accually the E or C 18 as from my understanding standing is only a 6 inch height difference. I would rather trim more often than have an issue with growth. What do you think? If you where to do it again would you stay the same size or go the smaller unit?
 
I do have cyano in my reactor. It is the only place I have cyano in my whole system so I am fine with it being there.
I wonder if this is indicative of nitrate deficiency? In a planted fw tank cyano is often a symptom of nitrate deficiency and the addition of kno3 will cause it to recede fairly rapidly. I'm aware that sw systems are different but would be interested to see whether dosing an inorganic source of nitrate in a controlled and calculated manner would boost the cheato growth and cause the disappearance of the cyano.
 
I am wondering on the sizing they use. JB NY, you were saying you are not getting the same growth as before and I am wondering would you have been better to go with a smaller unit? My thoughts are similar to those ATS, the people running them and who built them found bigger was always not better and there was for sure size issue. There was a great reduction in size recommendations from when it first started. The reason I am asking, is I have already contacted the company and really like this idea, but I stumbled across some board and people where have issues with getting good growth. The model they suggested was the E or C 24, but my thoughts is accually the E or C 18 as from my understanding standing is only a 6 inch height difference. I would rather trim more often than have an issue with growth. What do you think? If you where to do it again would you stay the same size or go the smaller unit?

I'm not sure, I don't know how oversizing it would really give me anything other than more room in the reactor. One thing I have been doing that they do not recommend is running ozone. I have run ozone on my tanks I I didn't want to stop using it. Tristan at Pax thinks that is absolutely can adversely affect macro growth, so I shut it off 4 days ago to see if it helps when the Chaeto growth. FWIW other than not having strong growth anymore, I am not suffering from any issues, nutrient or algae in my system. It's been pretty rock steady for months now.

I wonder if this is indicative of nitrate deficiency? In a planted fw tank cyano is often a symptom of nitrate deficiency and the addition of kno3 will cause it to recede fairly rapidly. I'm aware that sw systems are different but would be interested to see whether dosing an inorganic source of nitrate in a controlled and calculated manner would boost the cheato growth and cause the disappearance of the cyano.

I do dose KN03 daily I have been for a good 6-7 months.
 
I'm not sure, I don't know how oversizing it would really give me anything other than more room in the reactor. One thing I have been doing that they do not recommend is running ozone. I have run ozone on my tanks I I didn't want to stop using it. Tristan at Pax thinks that is absolutely can adversely affect macro growth, so I shut it off 4 days ago to see if it helps when the Chaeto growth. FWIW other than not having strong growth anymore, I am not suffering from any issues, nutrient or algae in my system. It's been pretty rock steady for months now.



I do dose KN03 daily I have been for a good 6-7 months.

How much are you dosing? (Just interested) :)
 
I maintain it at 5ppm, I started with an almost zero reading and raised 1ppm a day until I had about 5-7ppm then dropped back to the dose I have now. It keeps my NO3 at 5ppm.
 
I don't know how oversizing it would really give me anything other than more room in the reactor

One thing it could do is cause flow to route around the growth. Or, if the lights are the same, then a larger size could allow the growth to get farther away from the light.
 
Ok, how do I buy one of these? Pax bellum's site is under construction. I sent them an email a week ago but no answer.
 
A few people had problems with getting chaeto to grow. I am not sure if that is an issue with the product or the tank though.
 
I am not 100% sure. I know that a decent amount of N and P are needed. Boron levels also need to be normal, as well as Iron and Manganese I think. Then it's light and flow. But with everything if something else if off for some reason it could impact the growth too.
 
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