ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

[Xion]

Try a different computer if you have one, if not contact ATI support. You may have a bad control box like I did.

thanks, I think I had the same issue as yours. I contacted ATI and they sent me a new control box. hope to get it soon

 

[kewadiak]

finally joining the club:wave:, I currently have a 60" 8 bulb fixture running over my 36W72L24H. This light puts out a ton of par almost seams like its to much for an lps tank. i am kinda struggling to finding the right height over my tank because the t5 are not dimmable. I am looking to run basically an lps dominated tank with montipora corals near the top. any one with the 60" lights running a mixed reef just curious to placement of light off the water and how high your running your leds.

 

[dcforester1]

finally joining the club:wave:, I currently have a 60" 8 bulb fixture running over my 36W72L24H. This light puts out a ton of par almost seams like its to much for an lps tank. i am kinda struggling to finding the right height over my tank because the t5 are not dimmable. I am looking to run basically an lps dominated tank with montipora corals near the top. any one with the 60" lights running a mixed reef just curious to placement of light off the water and how high your running your leds.

I love the rock work. That's exactly the look I am going to try and achieve.

 

[westreef]

I have a 48" ATI Hybrid with 4 T5s and 3 Led clusters for a week already. My current laptop is a Macbook Pro and ATI does not support it. So I had to dig out my very old broken PC and tried to repair it. After a whole afternoon's tinkering around with the PC, finally I got it connected to the internet and downloaded the ATI software for this unit.

I was so lucky that I found this thread. Following Sahin's useful tutorial and Ryan's helpful instructions, I got the program working without much issues. Without their help here, I am sure I would be still looking for answers from ATI. Thanks to these two great reefers.

I have been reefer for over 15 years and have never owned a "real" light fixture. I always had DIY lighting systems. I am so happy now to have this unit, very well built and I am sure it will serve all my needs for many years to come. I would be very satisfied if in future my SPS corals would be half as good looking as those of Sahin's.


At peak hour (T5s and 3 LED clusters are on)




During ramp down (Only 3 LED clusters with RB and B are on)

 

[sahin]

Bernie, your tank and lights look VERY nice. I'd be careful with the new lights. It is a PAR monster. Much higher PAR than even a 400w Radium setup. My buddy runs his at 100% on everything, but feeds his tank CRAZY amounts to compensate. He also has lots of flow etc.

What is your T5 combo and LED settings at peak?

 

[westreef]

Bernie, your tank and lights look VERY nice. I'd be careful with the new lights. It is a PAR monster. Much higher PAR than even a 400w Radium setup. My buddy runs his at 100% on everything, but feeds his tank CRAZY amounts to compensate. He also has lots of flow etc.

What is your T5 combo and LED settings at peak?

My T5 combo is:

Front
Blue+
Coral+
DDAquaBlue+
Purple+

The bulbs are a little old except the Coral+. Over time, I would like to have final combo of 2 Blue+ and 2 Coral+.

At peak for just 5 hrs, T5s and all LED clusters are at 100%. However, the LED individually set at: RB 100%, B 50%, W 35% and R 10% as you recommended earlier in this thread. By the way, during ramp up or down, this LED setting actually brings up the red color amazingly poppy. I love red and this really delights me very much.

The light is hung about 14.5" above water surface. I will lower it slowly to about 10" over time. And I put a layer of egg crate over the tank to prevent my wrasses doing carpet surfing. With this set up, the PAR is not that overly strong. I got about 500 right beneath the water surface, about 370 in the middle and 260 at the bottom. The depth of this tank is 24".

I am in the process of restarting this tank. This is because at the end of March, right before my scheduled vacation to Europe, for no apparent reasons, half of my SPS got STN. It is slowly recovering now. Some of the saved frags still having STN at the bases despite numerous water changes. I have enjoyed for more than a year without any STN or RTN. Any sticks I threw in the tank grew like weeds, the colors were ok but not that spectacular though.

Now I am cycling some Marco rocks. Sometimes in July, I hope the rocks will be ready for 2-island aquascaping. This time, I will get rid of all old rocks and all softies which might have caused some problems for my SPS, imo. The future corals will just be SPS and some LPS. Please wish me luck.

Final words -- I made a right decision of getting this fantastic light, even though it costed me arms and legs, haha. :lmao:

 

[sahin]

Definitely swap to 2xC+ and 2xB+. You can up the White channel a bit more over time. You can also up the Red channel once you take out the P+. My buddy runs his red channels at 100%, but like I said earlier, he feeds his tank crazy amounts.

You do have your unit quite a bit higher than most, so that's good. I have mine 7inches above water; hence my PAR is quite a lot higher.

You have an excellent light here there is no doubt about that.

Is the Marco Rocks the Key Largo type? If so, be prepared for a hair algae battle. I acid washed and bleached mine, but got a ton of hair algae despite that. You need lots of CUC etc to deal with that. Otherwise its nice rocks.

Goodluck with resetting your tank. My own reset has gone very well this year. Here's hoping both our tanks do very well. :beer:

 

[westreef]

Definitely swap to 2xC+ and 2xB+. You can up the White channel a bit more over time. You can also up the Red channel once you take out the P+. My buddy runs his red channels at 100%, but like I said earlier, he feeds his tank crazy amounts.

You do have your unit quite a bit higher than most, so that's good. I have mine 7inches above water; hence my PAR is quite a lot higher.

You have an excellent light here there is no doubt about that.

Is the Marco Rocks the Key Largo type? If so, be prepared for a hair algae battle. I acid washed and bleached mine, but got a ton of hair algae despite that. You need lots of CUC etc to deal with that. Otherwise its nice rocks.

Goodluck with resetting your tank. My own reset has gone very well this year. Here's hoping both our tanks do very well. :beer:

Yes, the rock is from Key Largo, Florida. I did an acid wash. I checked the phoshhate after they were in RO water for 48 hrs and found 0 from both Hanna and Elos kits. I do worry about the hair algae outbreak. Thanks for the warning and advice.

 

[sahin]

Yes, the rock is from Key Largo, Florida. I did an acid wash. I checked the phoshhate after they were in RO water for 48 hrs and found 0 from both Hanna and Elos kits. I do worry about the hair algae outbreak. Thanks for the warning and advice.

I checked the PO4 level from the Key Largo rocks after I acid washed etc. It wasnt leaching anything.

And I dont think that is the issue. I think it just takes this rock a while to buildup sufficient bacterial mass on its surface/or provide adequate filtration. Its not bad though, once you're past the algae stage its great rock. Awesome to scape with etc.

 

[westreef]

I checked the PO4 level from the Key Largo rocks after I acid washed etc. It wasnt leaching anything.

And I dont think that is the issue. I think it just takes this rock a while to buildup sufficient bacterial mass on its surface/or provide adequate filtration. Its not bad though, once you're past the algae stage its great rock. Awesome to scape with etc.

This is the same worry I have. I find the rocks have a lot of crevices but not very porous at all. In fact, I am adding Special Blend and Night Out II everyday to the cycling water. I even add a few ml of vodka in it. I have total of 45 lb. I also added 1 liter of siporax in the sump of the DT. I am trying everything I can to help the filtration.

 

[dcforester1]

I finally found an old pc to get my light programed. I have the software loaded and I can adjust it, but I dont think its connected to my light. When I plug it in it makes a sound that its connected, but is there any way to see if its actually linked with it? Also when I try to slide the control to color preview it doesn't move, thats why I am thinking its not connected to it.

any help/sugg appreciated

Derek

 

[sahin]

This is the same worry I have. I find the rocks have a lot of crevices but not very porous at all. In fact, I am adding Special Blend and Night Out II everyday to the cycling water. I even add a few ml of vodka in it. I have total of 45 lb. I also added 1 liter of siporax in the sump of the DT. I am trying everything I can to help the filtration.

I have 1 litre of siporax in my sump as well. I wouldnt worry too much. There is a member with the name JPorter; his tank was setup on 100% Marco Key Largo rocks and the tank is pretty awesome.

 

[sahin]

I finally found an old pc to get my light programed. I have the software loaded and I can adjust it, but I dont think its connected to my light. When I plug it in it makes a sound that its connected, but is there any way to see if its actually linked with it? Also when I try to slide the control to color preview it doesn't move, thats why I am thinking its not connected to it.

any help/sugg appreciated

Derek

On the top right hand side of the software, there are two dots.

One says USB and one says LAMP.

When you connect the USB cable to the computer with other end connected to the controller, you should see the TWO dots change from GREY to BLUE.

Thats how you know that the fixture is connected.

You might want to take a look at my tutorial I produced more than a year ago.

Hope that helps.

EDIT: In the video linked below if you start watching you will see the two blue dots I mentioned above. I had the controller connected to my PC.

 

[Tracey2]

How much coverage does the 8 x 54W plus led powermodule cover in width, my tank is 36' wide.

 

[westreef]

Sahin, you are so right! This light is so powerful. In two days, I have already bleached one coral. Now I immediately reduce T5 and LED clusters all to 50%. Hope no more bleaching. Never seen this happen so quick!!!:headwalls::headwalls:

I thought I already played it safe -- hang it high and peak for just 5 hrs.:headwalls: My PAR meter is not measuring everything !? I guess.

 

[sahin]

How much coverage does the 8 x 54W plus led powermodule cover in width, my tank is 36' wide.

That unit will cover a 30" area for growing most any coral. Which I think is roughly within your range. For SPS I'd say a strictly 28" area. Of course the internal size will be roughly 35". Then deduct around 4" for space behind the rocks. That reduces the front to back space to around 31" of actual coral growing space. Now reduce a further 4 inches from the front as you wont be keeping SPS right up against the front glass.

That leaves you with 27" front to back space to grow SPS. You can of course have LPS outside the 27" space and there will still be enough light.

So IMO, that unit is fine if you can understand how I tried to illustrate above.

Sahin, you are so right! This light is so powerful. In two days, I have already bleached one coral. Now I immediately reduce T5 and LED clusters all to 50%. Hope no more bleaching. Never seen this happen so quick!!!:headwalls::headwalls:

Where in the tank is the bleached coral? High up directly under the unit?

As you may know T5's bathe the whole coral due to the highly dispersed light. Then add the mainly downward pointing light from the LED's and you have one strong light source.

AS I said, my buddy runs ALL the channels T5 and LED on 100% for like 10 hours!!! But he SLOWLY acclimated the corals. And feeds his tank loads. The extra zoax in his coral limits the light reaching the coral. His SPS tissue is dark and colourful.

I'd up the feeding every so slightly, and keep the decreased light for at least 10 days before you start any increase. When increasing, only do so by 3% every 5 days or so.

I hope the coral has just become pale due to extra light and that its not some other issue.

 

[westreef]

That unit will cover a 30" area for growing most any coral. Which I think is roughly within your range. For SPS I'd say a strictly 28" area. Of course the internal size will be roughly 35". Then deduct around 4" for space behind the rocks. That reduces the front to back space to around 31" of actual coral growing space. Now reduce a further 4 inches from the front as you wont be keeping SPS right up against the front glass.

That leaves you with 27" front to back space to grow SPS. You can of course have LPS outside the 27" space and there will still be enough light.

So IMO, that unit is fine if you can understand how I tried to illustrate above.



Where in the tank is the bleached coral? High up directly under the unit?

As you may know T5's bathe the whole coral due to the highly dispersed light. Then add the mainly downward pointing light from the LED's and you have one strong light source.

AS I said, my buddy runs ALL the channels T5 and LED on 100% for like 10 hours!!! But he SLOWLY acclimated the corals. And feeds his tank loads. The extra zoax in his coral limits the light reaching the coral. His SPS tissue is dark and colourful.

I'd up the feeding every so slightly, and keep the decreased light for at least 10 days before you start any increase. When increasing, only do so by 3% every 5 days or so.

I hope the coral has just become pale due to extra light and that its not some other issue.

The affected coral is in the middle of the tank, 8" below the surface, directly under the middle LED cluster. Okay, I will try what you suggested here.

 

[sahin]

I thought I already played it safe -- hang it high and peak for just 5 hrs.:headwalls: My PAR meter is not measuring everything !? I guess.

That is the Apogee spectral response curve.

It does underread the blue end slightly.

Eg take 450nm which is the typical peak wavelength on the Royal Blue LED's on these units...

At 450nm, the Apogee reads only about 80% of the PAR. If you were to count all the reduced readings from 470nm to 400nm you can see that overall, the Apogee underreads the blue end by about 20%, BUT overeads the other side of the spectrum by around 5%.

So the actual PAR is likely to be around 15% higher. So at 5 hours peak, depending on which coral it is, you may have passed the corals saturation point.

Typical saturation points for SPS:

Source: http://reefworks.co.uk/

 

[dcforester1]

ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

On the top right hand side of the software, there are two dots.

One says USB and one says LAMP.

When you connect the USB cable to the computer with other end connected to the controller, you should see the TWO dots change from GREY to BLUE.

Thats how you know that the fixture is connected.

You might want to take a look at my tutorial I produced more than a year ago.

Hope that helps.

EDIT: In the video linked below if you start watching you will see the two blue dots I mentioned above. I had the controller connected to my PC.

I did watch it and screen shot it and tried to find something different. I couldn't see those dots on the screen shot. Mine are not changing, but it is def connected because I hear the chime when connected. Do you think maybe the laptop is to old?

Is there a setting I need to do? I hit the T5/3LED unit in settings

This is what the screen look like when I connect. Like I said i get the chime when connecting to the USB

Thanks for the help

Derek.

 

[sahin]

I did watch it and screen shot it and tried to find something different. I couldn't see those dots on the screen shot. Mine are not changing, but it is def connected because I hear the chime when connected. Do you think maybe the laptop is to old?

Is there a setting I need to do? I hit the T5/3LED unit in settingsView attachment 319485

This is what the screen look like when I connect. Like I said i get the chime when connecting to the USB

Thanks for the help

Derek.

There seems to be an issue with the USB on your laptop. Neither of the dots are lighting up blue.

Go to the ATI USA website and ensure you have the latest software from there. Also, if there are any USB drivers on the ATI USA website download them.

You may need to use another laptop.