ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club
- Thread starter rodneyri
- Start date
JPMagyar
New member
I use the Blue+ settings provided by ATI. I find it to be an ideal blue/white mix. Not too blue; not too white.
africangrey
Active member
That is very disappointing with 1 month over the warranty, and replacing the ballast is a huge task.
westreef
Lost as usual
Sorry to hear that. Joe, mine was 13 months old and had the same problem like yours. I cranked up the led to 100% to compensate temporary par lost.
I talked to ATI via email. It was a slow process. You might get a ballast with a slight discount. Good luck.
JPMagyar
New member
Yeah, contacted them via the online support form yesterday and got a response in the evening. Followed the trouble shooting directions and it does appear to be a bad ballast most likely.
We'll see how they handle it.
Funny, I did the same thing, turned the LEDs up, for the time being. We'll see . . .
I was considering posting the phone number as it irks me that they do not offer a phone contact on their website, but I will refrain from doing so, but should anyone require the number in the future please do not hesitate to PM or email me at s u n v o x at a o l.
JPMagyar
New member
I have no idea what the optics are on the LEDs but even at 10 inches above the waterline the LEDs cover 48 x 30 x 30 with no trouble. Mind you the light is minimal with PAR readings around 20-50 umol/m2/s/s on my sand bed which is 24 inches below the waterline, but none the less they do provide plenty of coverage.
ClownsRCoo
New member
JP I think you said in your build thread that the repair for your fixture will probably run like $2k ?!? How's it hat expensive when the ballasts are only like $65? Is that to ship it back and the labor to have them do it too?
Is it really that hard to do?
I'm starting to get worried now since I bought mine used and have no idea how old it is. I'm thinking of jumping ship and getting and Geismann and some reefbrites to make my own hybrid now. $2k is way more than I even paid for the light.
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Is it really that hard to do?
I'm starting to get worried now since I bought mine used and have no idea how old it is. I'm thinking of jumping ship and getting and Geismann and some reefbrites to make my own hybrid now. $2k is way more than I even paid for the light.
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Thanks Joe! I think I've finally resolved my PAR concerns by lowering my lights to 7" above the water. Most corals are now at 200 to 450 PAR and starting to colour up. LEDs are now at 25% and I'll increase by 5% per month till 35 to 45% maximum (B 255 RB 255 W 120 R 20)
JPMagyar
New member
No . . .no
I'm sure I misspoke somehow, but the repairs are a $100 to $200 depending on if you do them yourself. The $2k I mentioned was about how much each fixture cost me. (I think retail is $1800 and change now, right?) plus I have 2 fixtures and a smaller Sunpower meaning I spent over $4k on ATI stuff AND my fixtures are exactly 13 months old which is only one month out of warranty . . .BUT
Good news from ATI yesterday. They said since my fixtures were only 1 month out of warranty, they would offer me a free ballast. I don't mind doing the repairs myself as I am an E.E. by training and am knowledgeable and handy when it comes to wiring, soldering, etc. Also, I am opting to but a second ballast just to have a spare on hand under the assumption that there is a high probability this will happen again. Finally I asked if there is anything to be done to mitigate the risk of ballast failure in a Powermodule. I'm considering removing the acrylic cover to help with the cooling. I think cleaning the reflectors twice a year is probably easier and cheaper than replacing a ballast every year or so.
Awesome! Looking forward to some progression shots!!
africangrey
Active member
I thought the PAR might suffer if the bulbs are kept at certain temp. too cool or too hot is no no.
JPMagyar
New member
My 2 fixtures are both 8 bulb
No, I am considering removing the cover but they have not yet given me an answer to the question "Can something be done to mitigate the risk of ballast failure?".
. From what I understand cooler is better for T5. I do not think too cool is possible in a Powermodule.
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rtparty
Raise The Reef!
My 2 fixtures are both 8 bulb
No, I am considering removing the cover but they have not yet given me an answer to the question "Can something be done to mitigate the risk of ballast failure?".
. From what I understand cooler is better for T5. I do not think too cool is possible in a Powermodule.
Overcooling is just as detrimental for performance as over heating. However, I would assume (dangerous thing to do) that the ballasts being better cooled is not a bad thing.
Small opinion with a tank not like the 'sps gods'. I went from a ATI 8x80 sun power to a hybrid about a year ago. My tank initially worked amazing and then I started to have problems with LED units and fans stopping to work. The unit became so hot, I could literally burn my hand on it.
Personally, I feel that is detrimental to the colour of T5's, based this on what i see with my eyes, not equipment.
emails went back and forth to the UK distributor and I was told I will get part to replace it myself. DIY wise I am terrible and didn't want to risk it. I then started to email ATI directly in Germany. Fast response and the unit were collected. Impressed.
It came back a few weeks later with LED fixed, but the fan not working. No luck since then.
My corals have suffered a great deal and many nems did not like the constantly changing light parameters.
IMO the hybrid was a waste of money and I only keep it as I spend the money on it.
I owned every single ATI light product over the years apart from a 54 Watt power module and this was such a huge disappointment to me, I am unlikely to ever buy another ATI light after this.
I love this hobby so much.. oh well, the addiction should I say, but it's sad that this event has put a huge damper on my views.
Personally, I feel that is detrimental to the colour of T5's, based this on what i see with my eyes, not equipment.
emails went back and forth to the UK distributor and I was told I will get part to replace it myself. DIY wise I am terrible and didn't want to risk it. I then started to email ATI directly in Germany. Fast response and the unit were collected. Impressed.
It came back a few weeks later with LED fixed, but the fan not working. No luck since then.
My corals have suffered a great deal and many nems did not like the constantly changing light parameters.
IMO the hybrid was a waste of money and I only keep it as I spend the money on it.
I owned every single ATI light product over the years apart from a 54 Watt power module and this was such a huge disappointment to me, I am unlikely to ever buy another ATI light after this.
I love this hobby so much.. oh well, the addiction should I say, but it's sad that this event has put a huge damper on my views.
JPMagyar
New member
I absolutely agree!
But . . .
I think anyone who has ever turned on a fluorescent light in a freezing cold garage or workshop has witnessed first hand the affect cold has on fluorescent lighting, but I was speaking only about the Powermodule and the removal of the shield.
At the moment I have one unit with the shield removed and one unit with the shield still in place. I can say the remaining lamps on the unit with the shield removed produce ever so slightly higher PAR. Could be from cooler temps but could also be from losses through the shield or a little of both. Most importantly though, the removal of the shield is absolutely not causing the light output to be diminished so I do not think there is a problem with "over cooling" in regards to the Powermodule shield removal.
Just a little clarification
Also I want to agree with and emphasize that water and fixtures do not go together so folks should be wary of trying this. I'm thinking about building a stand off that would hold the shield an inch or two off the light. This might be enough to lower the heat and still provide protection.
Still waiting to hear from ATI though. Perhaps the issue of ballast failure is a production issue and not a heat issue. That certainly would be nice!
ClownsRCoo
New member
Is it possibly to use a ballast of another brand on these fixtures to see if the longevity is improved?
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I am almost ready to join this club. On my new build i was debating between going all led with the new radion G4 but have decided against that will stick with what I have been successful with in the past, T5. My new build is going to be basically a 40 breeder 36x18x18. The tank will consist of all SPS. My past build I ran a 6 bulb ATI fixture. This Powemodule comes only in 4 and 8. What is the width of the 4 bulb and the 8 bulb fixture. I am thinking the 4 bulb fixture will cover the tank fine and is equivalent to a 6 bulb t5 fixture with the LED clusters going down the middle and that the 8 bulb is probably to wide.
I was going to read through the thread and try to find it but after not finding it through the first 30 pages and I thought it would be easier to just ask. THe info is not on the ATI website.
I was going to read through the thread and try to find it but after not finding it through the first 30 pages and I thought it would be easier to just ask. THe info is not on the ATI website.
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