ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

[rtparty]

I am almost ready to join this club. On my new build i was debating between going all led with the new radion G4 but have decided against that will stick with what I have been successful with in the past, T5. My new build is going to be basically a 40 breeder 36x18x18. The tank will consist of all SPS. My past build I ran a 6 bulb ATI fixture. This Powemodule comes only in 4 and 8. What is the width of the 4 bulb and the 8 bulb fixture. I am thinking the 4 bulb fixture will cover the tank fine and is equivalent to a 6 bulb t5 fixture with the LED clusters going down the middle and that the 8 bulb is probably to wide.

I was going to read through the thread and try to find it but after not finding it through the first 30 pages and I thought it would be easier to just ask. THe info is not on the ATI website.

4 bulb will be plenty.

I'd personally run a 6 bulb Sunpower but it's not my money and tank

 

[MikeC120]

I am almost ready to join this club. On my new build i was debating between going all led with the new radion G4 but have decided against that will stick with what I have been successful with in the past, T5. My new build is going to be basically a 40 breeder 36x18x18. The tank will consist of all SPS. My past build I ran a 6 bulb ATI fixture. This Powemodule comes only in 4 and 8. What is the width of the 4 bulb and the 8 bulb fixture. I am thinking the 4 bulb fixture will cover the tank fine and is equivalent to a 6 bulb t5 fixture with the LED clusters going down the middle and that the 8 bulb is probably to wide.

I was going to read through the thread and try to find it but after not finding it through the first 30 pages and I thought it would be easier to just ask. THe info is not on the ATI website.

IMOP I would run a 4 bulb sun power with a reefbrite on each side for dusk and dawn or the 6 bulb sunpower
Better bang for your buck

 

[illjoshlli]

SQ-520 Apogee PAR meter and ATI PowerModule hybrid 36" 4T5 with LED Spike

SQ-520 Apogee PAR meter and ATI PowerModule hybrid 36" 4T5 with LED Spike

I've been trying to find the right settings for my light for quite awhile now. For some reason people have been VERY shy in sharing their light profiles . So, I decided to bite-the-bullet and get a PAR meter. I got the new Apogee SQ-520. This sensor is supposed to be pretty accurate with LEDs. So much so, it does not contain different settings for the different lighting types. I went with the 520 to save a few bucks since it's USB based without a controller.

When I get some time I'll put together some PAR maps for T5s, LEDs, T5+LEDs. etc. For now, here is a video of my results. the quality isn't the best as I'm using a webCam and screen recording software.

The light is 9" above the water and in this test it has the following settings:
T5 at 100%: 2 x ATI C+, 2 X ATI B+
LEDs: RB 100%, B 100%, White 50%, Red 0%

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RYivt2GB4gA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

For reference here is a picture of my tank.

 

[ksc]

I think you need to add 30% to those underwater readings. I have the mq500 and this is the case due to immersion factor.

 

[JPMagyar]

Here's the information directly from Apogee:

Underwater PAR Measurements
Quantum sensors (often called PAR sensors) are increasingly used to measure photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD, units of µmol m-2 s-1) underwater, which is important for biological, chemical, and physical processes in natural waters and in aquariums. When a quantum sensor that was calibrated in air is used to make underwater measurements, the sensor reads low.

This phenomenon is called the immersion effect and happens because the refractive index of water (1.33) is greater than air (1.00). The higher refractive index of water causes more light to be backscattered (or reflected) out of the sensor in water than in air (Smith, 1969; Tyler and Smith, 1970). As more light is reflected, less light is transmitted through the diffuser to the detector, which causes the sensor to read low. Without correcting for this effect, underwater measurements are only relative, which makes it difficult to compare light in different environments.

The Apogee full spectrum quantum sensor (model SQ-500) is more spectrally accurate than the original quantum sensor (model SQ-120), but the unique optics (mainly the shape) cause the immersion effect to be larger for the new sensor. Underwater PAR measurements collected using a full spectrum sensor can be corrected by multiplying by 1.32; measurements collected using an original Apogee sensor should by multiplied by 1.08.

 

[illjoshlli]

I think you need to add 30% to those underwater readings. I have the mq500 and this is the case due to immersion factor.

Thanks Ksc. I thought it was a bit low. Here is an article I just found that does a good job covering the immersion factor for these. I wish they would update the software to adjust for this so I don't have to calculate each measurement (* 1.32)

Edit: ReefCentral doesn't like links to another form.. for those interested you can google:
underwater-par-measurement-is-strongly-impacted-by-immersion-effect


Apogee's Info on Immersion Effect

 

[illumnae]

Here's the information directly from Apogee:

I think this may be the answer to the issue of low PAR readings I was getting previously - I was using the MQ500 to measure PAR.

After lowering my lights to achieve an "acceptable" PAR range, I'm experiencing a shift to the other end of things and while previously brown corals are starting to show obvious colouring up, other corals are starting to show obvious paling and almost bleaching.

I think I need to raise my lights and take this 30% factor into account. The sweet spot may be 9 to 10 inches above the water line instead of the current 7 (previously 12 inches was obviously delivering too low PAR numbers).

 

[Logzor]

Joe sorry to hear about the ballast failure. Hopefully that gets resolved quickly. My fixture gets pretty toasty even with all the fans running and the LEDs turned down to practically nothing.

I lost a few nice colonies that seemed to respond poorly to a spike in the LED intensity. They got zapped and never recovered, slow death. At least that's what I think happened. Could be a parameter issue but my corals thrived better under my old T5 and ReefBrite setup. My old Aquaactinics fixture never got this hot.

Has anyone remove the reflector from the LED modules? I'm thinking about doing this in order to get better spread and less intensity because in the module configuration the PAR hotspot seems massive.

 

[Logzor]

ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

OK guys here it is. I went ahead and removed one of the metal LED reflectors. Remember each of these clusters are 75w which is the same power as the old AI Sol Blues. You could argue that you can almost light the entire tank just with the LEDs. Having said that it's a lot of LED power in a very compact module. What you get is a beam of concentrated light right under the LEDs that is much higher than the rest of the tank.

Check out how the hot spot goes away after removing the reflector. Crazy. There is a piece of cardboard over the top of my tank so I can demonstrate the difference (and not lose the hex screws). Posted from my phone...sorry for the gigantic photos...

 

[hbrochs]

Powermodule

Powermodule

Is it possibly to use a ballast of another brand on these fixtures to see if the longevity is improved?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The fit of the ballast into the fixture is super tight, so you would really need to check the exact dimensions before considering using another ballast.

I just got my repaired Powermodule back from ATI. They replaced two ballasts.

The thing is that while my Hybrid fixture was being repaired I bought a 6 bulb t5 Sunpower (no leds) and the tank is doing really well with it. Maybe better than with the Hybrid. I do miss the dawn and dusk blue shimmer of the led.
So my debate is, do I buy two Reef Brite led strips and mount them on my Sunpower OR go back to the Powermodule.

The Powermodule will be a cleaner look than the modded Sunpower.
Financially, I think its a wash when I sell the light I'm not using.

I feel like my rockwork is highest down the center of the tank, and this is where the Powermodule LEDs are. My sense is that the Sunpower & Reef Brite ( or similar) combo will be better for coral growth and coloration, where the LEDs will be front and back of the fixture and a little further from the acros.

I'd really appreciate any opinions people have. Also, I don't know how people control the reef brites? Are they just on a timer, or is there some controller they are compatible with?

Howard

 

[africangrey]

I don't really understand why people are installing reefbrite to their sunpower, for the color pop or shimmering? If it's shimmering I would op for a single point source like Kessil over the reefbrite's multi point source.

 

[hbrochs]

Reef Brite

Reef Brite

I don't really understand why people are installing reefbrite to their sunpower, for the color pop or shimmering? If it's shimmering I would op for a single point source like Kessil over the reefbrite's multi point source.

I'd be adding for both the color pop and shimmer.

I have a 4 foot long tank, so not sure one Kessil would do the trick.

Then if I buy two Kessils, will look odd I think (the cosmetics of the light rather thank the contents of the tank).

Also two kessils I think are more $ than two reef brites.

 

[Logzor]

I don't really understand why people are installing reefbrite to their sunpower, for the color pop or shimmering? If it's shimmering I would op for a single point source like Kessil over the reefbrite's multi point source.

The Reefbrites are great options to add to a T5 fixture because they add a lot of color with the royal blue LEDs that T5's just can't deliver. The shimmer is minimal unless only the LEDs are on. If your T5 fixture is covering most of the aquarium then there is no good way to add single point source fixtures, plus the Reefbrites can bolt right on to ATI fixtures in some cases. They're also a great option if you have a wide aquarium and your T5 tubes have insufficient coverage, the Reefbrites can tilt to the desired angle to significantly increase coverage.

I really liked how they looked on my old T5 light before I got the Powermodule. However now I'm much happier with the reflectors removed! Way better light spread that looks more like the Reefbrites (see my previous post).

 

[africangrey]

Thanks for the clarifications guys, I am in the middle of choosing either a Powermodule or a Sunpower and need a decision soon before the black friday next week. So if you were doing to do this all over again would you choose Sunpower + reef brite or powermodule for a full SPS system.

 

[illjoshlli]

OK guys here it is. I went ahead and removed one of the metal LED reflectors. Remember each of these clusters are 75w which is the same power as the old AI Sol Blues. You could argue that you can almost light the entire tank just with the LEDs. Having said that it's a lot of LED power in a very compact module. What you get is a beam of concentrated light right under the LEDs that is much higher than the rest of the tank.

Check out how the hot spot goes away after removing the reflector. Crazy. There is a piece of cardboard over the top of my tank so I can demonstrate the difference (and not lose the hex screws). Posted from my phone...sorry for the gigantic photos...

Interesting. I didn't realize it was so easy to take that off. I believe the Optics are 90° and the LEDs without them are around 115°-130°. THis would reduce their ability to hit the bottom of the tank hard but give you better spread. How is the bleed into your room? I woudl think it'd be pretty bad. However, you could than lower the light....

Maybe this weekend when I get some time I'll measure the PAR before/after.

 

[Logzor]

Thanks for the clarifications guys, I am in the middle of choosing either a Powermodule or a Sunpower and need a decision soon before the black friday next week. So if you were doing to do this all over again would you choose Sunpower + reef brite or powermodule for a full SPS system.

I would choose the combo if I did it again but if you like the sleek look then go with the Hybrid. Make sure you get the XHO blue Reefbrites if you go that route.

 

[Logzor]

It took me no time at all to remove the reflectors and they popped right off. Just be really careful that you don't lose the hex bolts!

What's interesting is that there are actually no optics! I'll take a close up picture later but it's just a piece of metal that focuses the LEDs. I would agree though that the focus is probably 90° based on how the reflector is designed. I guess naturally a LEDs sends light 180° without any kind of reflector or optic? If that is correct then that's what you get without the reflector, just a little LED square without anything around it.

You would expect light bleeding into the room but it doesn't happen because the LED modules are further up into the fixture, so any light spillage it blocked by the T5 reflector and bulbs.

I think the light spread has more value than focusing the LEDs. The PAR hot spot it just too great especially when considering our T5s alone produce substantial PAR. It's VERY easy to forget that EACH module is 75w of LEDs.

Interesting. I didn't realize it was so easy to take that off. I believe the Optics are 90° and the LEDs without them are around 115°-130°. THis would reduce their ability to hit the bottom of the tank hard but give you better spread. How is the bleed into your room? I woudl think it'd be pretty bad. However, you could than lower the light....

Maybe this weekend when I get some time I'll measure the PAR before/after.

 

[biecacka]

This could be especially helpful for those that just use the T5 for color or something other than their primary source of light.

Corey

 

[Logzor]

This could be especially helpful for those that just use the T5 for color or something other than their primary source of light.

Corey

Definitely. I like it because if I want I could now run more actinic and increase the LED power without harming my corals (hopefully). I need to borrow our clubs PAR meter and test the difference. As it stand I've found that I can't increase the LEDs to over 20% without negative impacts, other users have similar reports but curious if people have had success running them higher.

 

[soverjas]

4 bulb will be plenty.

I'd personally run a 6 bulb Sunpower but it's not my money and tank

I debated and decided to go with the power module. Came down to the light going on sale and me not being a DYI guy on supplementing LED strips and I also appreciate less cords.

After I bought it i went to get my bulbs from my LFS. I just toss the same combo of 6 Bulbs I ran for years in my cart then was like oh wait I only get to use four. I put the Kz fiji bulb back and think I will run with 2 Blue plus 2 coral plus. I picked up one actinic to play with.