Hey Mike,
This could possibly be fixed with a firmware update. If you could email us 2 things we can determine if there is a firmware update available for your light.
Send us:
A photo of the sticker on the inside of the leg of your power supply controller. This likely says "SST" something.
Your firmware version. This can be found in the menu, it will say HW X.XX and FW X.XX we need the FW (firmware) number.
Email this to us at customercare@ our domain name (trying not to get spammed). Be sure its the North America website.
I'll have to remove the controller to get that to you. It's mounted to the wall now and somewhat difficult to get to.
Side note, I know you run your T5s 100% and leds 100%. Did you do a custom setting for your leds or did you choose one of the presets for your leds? When you adding corals, what is your procedure for acclimating the corals to the intense lighting?
I'm running my leds and T5s at 100% also and gotta say, I love the shimmer. I'm running the ABS & B+ settings for the LEDS.
Hey Mike,
I do run the LEDs at full Blue Plus at 11am, then Blue + AquaB at 4pm, then back to Blue Plus at 7pm. Running them on these colors isn't really 100%, since some LEDs are lower to achieve the color. Hopefully this makes sense?
Yes I got ya, how do you acclimate corals when introducing them to the tank which such par levels?
Got my Powermodule today and I am so excited. For now I've got the T5s at 100% and the LEDs only at 20% to hopefully acclimate slowly. I know Keith said 30-50% but without a PAR meter it looked so much brighter than my old lights it made me nervous - probably because my old T5 setup was a budget setup with less effective reflectors, etc. I played with it a little though of course - what beautiful results when the LEDs and T5s are combined more equally. It will be hard to go slowly.
My question - what settings are y'all using for moonlight?
Tx,
Cindy
[emoji106]Mike I honestly usually don't worry about it much, but if I do have concerns I just start them lower, or slightly in a shadow if needed and move them up. Often times I just stick them in the sand bed for a couple of days until I have an opportunity to glue them up. I sometimes use a Thrive (now defunked) 360 frag rack that allows me to put it nearly anywhere.
Cindy it is good you are running your T5's at 100%, you need to season the bulbs for 50 hours at 100% prior to dimming them. Be sure you don't have a ramp period up and down and they just turn on straight to 100% during this period.
For moonlights I have a 48" fixture (3 LED Clusters). I have just the middle cluster with 1% royal blue for moonlights. I found 1% on all 3 clusters to be overpowering.
Apologies if this has been mentioned before on this huge thread. I had a 24 inch hybrid and the amount of light overspill was huge on my 24 inch tank. I am upgrading to a 60 inch tank. Will a 36 inch new generation hybrid provide enough light for the tank with SPS in the centre and LPS at the edges, or would I have to get the 48 inch version. The tank depth is 24 inch. Thanks in advance.
I would highly discourage you from putting a 36" fixture on a 60" tank. I would go no more than 12" longer aquarium vs fixture. IE a 48" fixtures on a 60" tank. I would recommend however buying the same size fixture as aquarium, in your case a 60 fixtures for a 60" aquarium when possible.
Your light spillage was likely more front to back vs side to side depending on the depth of the tank and height of the fixture off the water.
Has anyone experienced their lamp not loading? I have the 60" 4 led clusters. When I go to light studio to change setting the USB is connected but won't connect to lamp. I get an error message saying "error while reading from device". I've had this light for years with no problems until now. Today I downloaded the newer version of light studio hoping it would help but it didn't. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Other than the wifi controller compenent does anyone know what the new features on the powermodule hybrid are that just got launched in the US.
Thanks