ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

[sahin]

Thanks Sahin.

On an unrelated note - which Powermodule Hybrid would you recommend for this tank (http://www.cadlights.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=47&products_id=283)? It's 36x18x18.

Thanks again!

For the tank size quoted (36x18x18) it would have to be a 36" LED PM with 4 tubes. An 8 tube will be too big...ie overhang/2xtubes would be lighting the floor.

The 4 tubes and 2 LED clusters will be plenty of coverage for that tank.

Hope that helps.

 

[w.vreeswijk]

Since you had a T5/LED combo already, I feel that your corals will be better off than other tanks. In terms of PAR, your ATI unit will be similar, but with more light punched down towards the bottom and certainly a far greater coverage/area of high PAR. Ie FAR less shadows etc, these areas will be filled with light.



Start off with JUST the T5's to burn them in for a week anyway. Let the T5's run around 6-7 hours for 7 days. Then work the LED's in slowly until you are happy with the overall look.



I run my LED's and T5's at 100% for around 3.5 hours I think. And both are ramping up or down either side of that; I think I am running a 10 hour light cycle. Obviously if I didnt have dimmable LED's and T5's I wouldnt run such a long light cycle.



As for the T5 combo: FOR SPS Dominated



Front: This is a nice combo which I know works.

ATI Blue+

ATI Blue+

ATI Purple+

ATI Blue+

--LED's--

ATI Coral+

ATI Blue+

ATI Purple+

ATI Blue+



Or: For a lightly brighter look

ATI Blue+

ATI Blue+

ATI Coral+

ATI Blue+

--LED's--

ATI Purple+

ATI Blue+

ATI Coral+

ATI Blue+



Or: More "whiter" than a above.

ATI Blue+

ATI Blue+

ATI Purple+

ATI Blue+

--LED's--

KZ NEWGEN 14K+

ATI Blue+

ATI Purple+

ATI Blue+



Remember you have the LED clusters/channel to further adjust the appearance of the overall look.



For an LPS/Zoa dominated tank:



Front

ATI Blue+

ATI Actinic

ATI Purple+

ATI Blue+

--LED's--

ATI Blue+

ATI Actinic+

ATI Purple+

ATI Blue+



And then use as much Royal Blue as your corals can deal with, add a good measure of Blue and a bit of White light from the LED's. That will have the LPS/Zoas popping!

Hi sahin thank you for all the information.
I have choose for this setting.

Current lighting from front to back:
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Actinic
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Coral Plus
LED LED LED LED
ATI Coral Plus
ATI Purple Plus
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Coral Plus

I like the setup van v1 rotate with his reef in the sky.
The colours are very bright and i live alot off blue.
My tank is een sps dominated with also lps.

Here some pictures.

I have now for 4 weeks the t5 with led and the corals are growing better,
And look healther.
I can,t wait to see wath the ati goes to do with.

Greets wesley

 

[slap]

what a T5 combo would you recommend for a better growth of my sps

I have a ati hybrid powermodule 4x39W T5 2x 75W LED

coral+
blue+
led led ( AquablueSpezial )
coral+
blue+

 

[sahin]

what a T5 combo would you recommend for a better growth of my sps

I have a ati hybrid powermodule 4x39W T5 2x 75W LED

coral+
blue+
led led ( AquablueSpezial )
coral+
blue+

You are already using a T5 combo which will yield very good growth and colour.

On the LED setting using the using ABS utilises the white channel to maximum, but doesnt utilise the ROYAL BLUE channel at max. I would therefore make a custom preset and use the ROYAL BLUE channel at max, the BLUE Channel at 50% and the WHITE channel at around 75%. Be careful to acclimatise the corals if required.

Will you see a massive change in growth? I doubt it, but it will mean your lights are providing the most PAR from your fixture without going overboard.

Just keep the Alk, Ca and Mg stable and close to NSW values. Feed the tank/fishes lots and carry out regular water changes.

 

[slap]

many thanks for the answer

should I T5 and LED 100% or less?
my stone building is very low and my tank is 60cm high

and, sorry for my bad english

 

[flamron]

Well - having an issue with my light. One of the T5 channels is flickering and then kicking off randomly. If I tap the side of the fixture, it will come back on (for a random amount of time). I've contact ATI back in December for this issue, but then pulled the light down for the new build and just got around to turning the light on again. I swapped the bulbs from front to back to see if it was the bulbs per ATI, but the issue stayed.

The timing is good, since I'm just cycling the tank. So I'm hoping they can help me out and resolve it. I'm sure they will.

 

[sahin]

many thanks for the answer

Glad to be of help.

should I T5 and LED 100% or less?
my stone building is very low and my tank is 60cm high

That depends on your corals. Your rockwork is set low, and your tank is 60cm high (almost 24inches) therefore I would run the T5's at 100% for at least 6 hours: ie ramp up from 0-100% over 1.5 hours, run T5's full (100%) for around 6 hours and then ramp down (from 100% to 0%) over 1.5 hours.

Start with the above and run like this for a 2 weeks and observe your corals.

IF the corals are fine and dont show any sign of bleaching/becoming pale or colour fading slightly, then all is good. If they start to pale then reduce light hours slightly and see what happens.

IF the corals do well, then next I would try and bring the LED's up as much as your corals can take and as much as needed to balance the overall colour to your liking.

and, sorry for my bad english

Meh, I understood you just fine, no need to apologise. I find it harder to understand some native English speakers at times.

PS nice to have you on our forum.

 

[sahin]

Well - having an issue with my light. One of the T5 channels is flickering and then kicking off randomly. If I tap the side of the fixture, it will come back on (for a random amount of time). I've contact ATI back in December for this issue, but then pulled the light down for the new build and just got around to turning the light on again. I swapped the bulbs from front to back to see if it was the bulbs per ATI, but the issue stayed.

The timing is good, since I'm just cycling the tank. So I'm hoping they can help me out and resolve it. I'm sure they will.

I highly suspect a loose/bad connection because tapping seems to cause the tubes to light up. The fact it goes off again after a random amount of time further suggests a loose connection as heat could be causing the connection to disengage etc, and tapping brings it back.

Since it is under warranty, get ATI/retailer/dealer/distributor to repair it. ANY attempt to self repair may invalidate the warranty.

I have completely dismantled ATI units, both Sunpowers and Powermodules. The Sunpower is VERY nice to work with, but the PM is a lot tougher, with far less space and organisation in the internals. So I wouldnt advise any self repair, unless ATI specifically ask you to do so.

Contact support ASAP. Meanwhile you have a chance to let your system cycle and let the critters/bugs buildup in the system etc.

 

[DiscusHeckel]

My tank dimensions are 40" long X 21" (back to front) and 18" high.

I currently use an ATI Sunpower 6 X 39W unit. If I switched to the hybrid unit, I would have to get the 4 X T5 version as 8 X T5 version would be too big.

Would getting a hybrid unit be back step for me?

Thanks in advance

 

[sahin]

My tank dimensions are 40" long X 21" (back to front) and 18" high.

I currently use an ATI Sunpower 6 X 39W unit. If I switched to the hybrid unit, I would have to get the 4 X T5 version as 8 X T5 version would be too big.

Would getting a hybrid unit be back step for me?

Thanks in advance

I wouldnt exactly call it a step back. The coverage would be the same IMO, if not better. The 4 tube LED PM is rather like an 8tube standard PM in terms of amount of light and coverage.

Why do you want to change when you have A full T5 unit and some Blue LED's as supplements?

 

[sahin]

Hey guys and gals, check out this swapover from full LED's to the 60" T5/LED PM. The narrator talks about the LED's not colouring up the Acros to their full potential...something along those lines...forgot the exact words. Watch in HD because the video regardless of the content is pretty cool.
<iframe width="850" height="478" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/CnNrfB-BTyc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[flamron]

Working with support now.

Their one comment is that the end caps seem to be spaced more than needed.

 

[sahin]

Working with support now.

Their one comment is that the end caps seem to be spaced more than needed.

Keep us updated on how it is sorted.

 

[graham hunt]

custom settings

custom settings

hi,been about a week on out of box settings with the help from sahins post on using the control box i think i have a handle on it at last!
out of box settings are,130r-255rb-172b-255w peak.this is a bit pink and would seem to have encouraged a little green algea on sand and rockwork so i have entersd a custom 1 setting of,30r/255rb/210b/200w peak.this has certainly cut down on pink and algea would seem to be backing off.
i am running the lights at 14 inches over water to acclimatise sps colour and growth have both noticeably improved with no damage to date,i am very happy with the change,flexability is quite outstanding!
i would appreciate any input /suggestions about custom settings my tank is predominatly sps with mid height rockwork,24 inches deep and run as close to nsw as i can get it.
many thanks in advance.
regards graham.

 

[sahin]

hi,been about a week on out of box settings with the help from sahins post on using the control box i think i have a handle on it at last!
out of box settings are,130r-255rb-172b-255w peak.this is a bit pink and would seem to have encouraged a little green algea on sand and rockwork so i have entersd a custom 1 setting of,30r/255rb/210b/200w peak.this has certainly cut down on pink and algea would seem to be backing off.
i am running the lights at 14 inches over water to acclimatise sps colour and growth have both noticeably improved with no damage to date,i am very happy with the change,flexability is quite outstanding!
i would appreciate any input /suggestions about custom settings my tank is predominatly sps with mid height rockwork,24 inches deep and run as close to nsw as i can get it.
many thanks in advance.
regards graham.

Graham, can you remind me which T5 tubes you are using, and which unit you have exactly?

I can then make a suggestion based on those details.

 

[graham hunt]

thank you sahin

thank you sahin

Graham, can you remind me which T5 tubes you are using, and which unit you have exactly?

I can then make a suggestion based on those details.

hi sahin i would be very much obliged,
its a five foot four tube unit,tubes are;
blue +
purple +
led
aquablue
blue+
back to front.
tank is 24 inches back to front,presently at peak 650 par at surface,260 par at half depth,this unit replaces chinese leds with similar par but had a much tighter width cover and no t5s.
regards graham.

 

[sahin]

hi sahin i would be very much obliged,
its a five foot four tube unit,tubes are;
blue +
purple +
led
aquablue
blue+
back to front.
tank is 24 inches back to front,presently at peak 650 par at surface,260 par at half depth,this unit replaces chinese leds with similar par but had a much tighter width cover and no t5s.
regards graham.

Hi Graham. You have a good choice of T5 tube combo. IMO covers the spectrum very well.

With regards to the peak LED setup (I assume INTENSITY is at 100% and we are adjusting the values of each channel): This is how I would have it:

Red: 30 - You can lower this to 20 if required. IMO you have plenty in the Purple+ and ABS tubes.

Royal Blue: 255 - No change.

Blue: 200

White: 175. (175/255)*100 = 68% The white channel is 24watts, so at 175 and 100% Intensity you're using almost 16.5watts of the White Channel in each cluster. Thats plenty IMO.

Yes that will lower your PAR a little, but you can easily make up for that by having the LED peak cycle on an extra 30-60 mins. There is an Advanced Aquarist article that that talk about Daily Light Integer...If you know the PAR between the two instances, you can easily work out how much longer you need the light hours to match the same DLI.

I dont know where in the UK you live, but if you are ever in the Harlow area near London, check out the display tank at Advanced Aquarium Consultancy. Pauls tank is one of the BEST LFS display in the UK.

And what lights does he run? 4 AI sols flanked by a couple of T5's on each side. The light setup is basically a Hybrid LED/T5, same as yours. As far as I recall he runs Blue+/Purple+ combo for the T5's.

The Blue and Royal Blue are set fairly high, but the White channel is set VERY LOW. Despite that, he has an amazing display. I recall Paul telling me that someone measured the PAR in his tank and it was very low compared to what most people have in their tanks these days.

Most SPS will do quite fine in around 250 PAR. Water quality and nutrition for the corals is far more important. Before T5's were around I ran the old T8's which grew and coloured up SPS just fine, EVEN Acropora.

 

[sahin]

Graham, if you are worried about lowering the PAR, you can also increase the Blue Channel to 235 and retain White Channel at 200; this will offset some of the pinkish tinge.

 

[graham hunt]

a big thank you

a big thank you

Graham, if you are worried about lowering the PAR, you can also increase the Blue Channel to 235 and retain White Channel at 200; this will offset some of the pinkish tinge.

hi sahin,thanks the figures are a big help,hopefully as corals settle i can lower fitting from 14 inches to perhaps twelve if more par looks a help over the next few months.
i did get a three foot four tube unit to replace 400w halide over the adjacent 36x30x30 inch cube housing clams,lps,gonapora and gorgonians the tank looks realy nice now and summer will not be a worry anymore.
i live on the isle of wight,sadly a bit house bound now so dont get round to much so my theory is to get tanks looking realy good so i get more visitors!
again thanks for helping and interest i will try and keep updates going.
regards graham.

 

[DiscusHeckel]

Why do you want to change when you have A full T5 unit and some Blue LED's as supplements?

Thanks.

PAR drops dramatically at each end (leftmost and right most) of my tank. I though LEDs might help boost PAR a little.