i was thinking the same,but it might be to hot for plain glass.Has anyone changed the plexiglass shield for glass? Any downside for doing that? Thought it might be easier to clean
i was thinking the same,but it might be to hot for plain glass.Has anyone changed the plexiglass shield for glass? Any downside for doing that? Thought it might be easier to clean
I have the following white tubes:
ATI AquaBlueSpecial
ATI Coral Plus
Giessemann Lagoon Blue (despite its name, its a white tube like the ATI ABS)
GE 6500K
KZ NewGen -(looks like the Lagoon Blue to me)
Arcadia 14K - British brand
The KZ NewGen to me is like a standard white tube. Not too blue, not too yellow and doesnt pop the red/pinks like the Coral+ does. It looks too grey.
The Coral+ is the best ALL round white tube out there. Perfect amount of blue, green, yellow and a slight tinge of pink. It is the most balanced tube out there.
I like the ABS because despite most people saying it causes colour to wash out, if a couple of tubes are used in an 8 tube combo, it can be balanced out by using at least 5 blues or when Reefbrites are used.
The GE 6500K is a tube that can be used in an 8 tube combo with a fixture that has at least 2 LED clusters to drown out the yellow (ie you have enough Blue LED's to counter all that green/orange/yellow/red light).
I like this tube because it provides a very "full" spectrum and helps boost the yellow and red coral pigments which otherwise get lost in too much blue.
If you have a 4 tube fixture with two or more LED clusters, then go ahead and use the following combo:
Blue+
Coral+
--LED's-- (set RB=255, B=150 and W=105)@100%
Coral+
Actinic
With two or more clusters, dont be worried out PAR loss. You will hit the PAR levels with all that Royal Blue, Blue and White LED's.
So long as you are hitting 250+ PAR for most of your SPS, then that it good enough.
Hello to all ATI powermodule club! This thread was inspiring for me to obtain it. I am an old fun of MH and I feel this fixture will not make miss my old habits. Only "complain" so far is that when both T5 banks are on (max), the shimmering is almost gone. MH was a big love, but it's time to move on.
My current combo in lighting is
B+
Abs
B+
Purple+
LEDS
Actinic (ATi)
B+
Abs
B+
The reef tank is new and I am still on the stage of running things out. This combo is quite similar in light with the LEDs tuned on 255RB - 255B - 180W - 20R. Which I found quite pleasing to my eyes.
Thats a pretty good combo and you are using all the blue and lots of white in the LED's. Just keep that combo and LED settings, keep things stable and your corals should colour up pretty nicely.Hello to all ATI powermodule club! This thread was inspiring for me to obtain it. I am an old fun of MH and I feel this fixture will not make miss my old habits. Only "complain" so far is that when both T5 banks are on (max), the shimmering is almost gone. MH was a big love, but it's time to move on.
My current combo in lighting is
B+
Abs
B+
Purple+
LEDS
Actinic (ATi)
B+
Abs
B+
The reef tank is new and I am still on the stage of running things out. This combo is quite similar in light with the LEDs tuned on 255RB - 255B - 180W - 20R. Which I found quite pleasing to my eyes.
Sahin,
My new bulbs arrived and I tried the combination above and I like the T5s but I also found that I liked a bit more white and a bit less blue from the LEDs. Is that OK? Is this just about aesthetics or are there coral health/growth concerns about the balance of the blue and white LEDs? I also assume Red should be very low.
Thanks!
Just joined the club. I had reefbrites attached to a sunpower on my previous tank but this fixture took it to another level. Totally impressed.
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So it looks like the lamp is bad and it's definitely a hardware issue. When 4 T5s are on they are dim and they only brighten up fully when all 8 turn on. Sent ATI NA video of this and they have forwarded it to Germany last week. I'm told we have to wait on ATI to decide on what to do after they see the video. How long should that take? I hope that they will get this lamp replaced ASAP.
Slick photograhy there. Which tank is this going over?
Does that mean we need to have a backup lamp in case something goes bad? I had a PacSun lamp before and it had a bad ballast. PacSun sent me a new ballast in 5 days and that too because a weekend was in the way. Also their involvement on their newsgroup is much more. Don't see the same with ATI. PacSsun lamps are not as well built or sleek as the ATI but do the job. I hope ATI gets more involved here and with their customer base in the US.ATI has probably some problems. I've been waiting 14 days for example 4 tubes which my dealer just do not get. others are waiting here since last december on their hybrid.
Thats a pretty good combo and you are using all the blue and lots of white in the LED's. Just keep that combo and LED settings, keep things stable and your corals should colour up pretty nicely.
If you can tolerate a bit more white from the LED's then its all good!I prefer the 20K look haha
Just be careful with increasing them too fast.
One more question. The actinic seems very dim. Do you think that even though it doesn't seem to put out much light that the spectrum is beneficial to coral health?
Thanks.
So it looks like the lamp is bad and it's definitely a hardware issue. When 4 T5s are on they are dim and they only brighten up fully when all 8 turn on. Sent ATI NA video of this and they have forwarded it to Germany last week. I'm told we have to wait on ATI to decide on what to do after they see the video. How long should that take? I hope that they will get this lamp replaced ASAP.
Have there been any software updates to the moonlight program? Does it include moonphases yet or is it still just an on/off prgram?