ATO advice for my needs

[hmspradlin]

So I've looked at options but figured I'd ask around. My Rodi res is in my garage. Was going to try and do tubing up and through my attic-back down then through the wall that's behind my tank and into my sump. That's a good bit of footage. How can I make this happen? I'm still somewhat new to the hobby and still learning equipment specifications etc.

Thanks in advance

 

[luisagos]

Get a Peristaltic Pump, not going to find a better solution.

I just sold two Avast Peristaltic Pumps.


Look at these.

http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/do/product/rigging/Peristaltic-Pump-ATO


http://www.saltysupply.com/Kamoer-KCS-S-Peristaltic-Pump-p/ksp1120.htm

 

[Htfdwhaler]

That's the way I have mine set up.

My RODI unit and mixing station is in my outside patio. I Teed off my tubing and ran it through the attick, then back down to the wall behind my tank hooked up to a 5 gallon reservoir with a float valve inside.

I have a pressure switch inside the sump, when triggered the dosing pump adds fresh RODI water to the system fro the resorvoir at the same time my RODI unit is pumping water into the reservoir.

It is not recommended to add water from your RODI directly into your system in case something fails. (some people do it with no problem). Also be prepared to spend more money on membranes the constant on and off of your RODI will exhaust your filters faster.

First check if you have enough pressure coming out of your RODI unit to feed through all that tubing. If not you may have to look into a booster pump for your RODI.

 

[luisagos]

Running RO/DI directly is a bad idea. You will burn through more filters this way.

The RO/DI system gives high TDS every time it starts.
Better to make RO/DI at large quantities, than small amounts.

 

[Htfdwhaler]

Running RO/DI directly is a bad idea. You will burn through more filters this way.

The RO/DI system gives high TDS every time it starts.
Better to make RO/DI at large quantities, than small amounts.

You do go through more filters but I have to disagree with you that RODI gives high TDS every time it starts.

My tds meter is hooked up to the product water and always reads zero even when it starts. Plus my RODI flushes itself before and after it turns on.

I rather spend a little more on filters and have my system completely automated. I don't even have to think about ATO water.

 

[luisagos]

You do go through more filters but I have to disagree with you that RODI gives high TDS every time it starts.

My tds meter is hooked up to the product water and always reads zero even when it starts. Plus my RODI flushes itself before and after it turns on.

I rather spend a little more on filters and have my system completely automated. I don't even have to think about ATO water.

Why do you think, you go through more filters.

Just to be clear the high TDS comes before the DI, hence short life on the DI stage.

 

[Htfdwhaler]

Why do you think, you go through more filters.

Just to be clear the high TDS comes before the DI, hence short life on the DI stage.

Oh ok, now I understand what you meant.

For me personally I went from swapping out filters from every 6 months to every 4 months which isn't that bad, for a fully automated system.

 

[hmspradlin]

Ok so excuse me if I sound totally dumb. But you're saying I shouldn't add water from my 55 gal drum of Rodi in my garage because it'll go thru my Rodi filters quicker? Because of it having to kick on too much? What if I just shut it off and turned it on once a week, the Rodi that is

 

[luisagos]

Ok so excuse me if I sound totally dumb. But you're saying I shouldn't add water from my 55 gal drum of Rodi in my garage because it'll go thru my Rodi filters quicker? Because of it having to kick on too much? What if I just shut it off and turned it on once a week, the Rodi that is

Your 100% correct.
The more RO/DI you can make in one sitting the longer your filter will last.

 

[hmspradlin]

So shutting it off and turning it on once a week or so would be a solution to that.?

 

[ReefWhatYouSow]

hmspradlin... As you can probably see by now there are many ways to get things accomplished in this hobby. I'm still learning this myself. I have my RO/DI in the garage as well, and I have it fill up a 50gal with water. That water can either drop into a 50gal for salt or sent up between my first and second floor and over to my fish room which is about 25ft or so away. The main hurdle is the head from the floor (or wherever you have your pump placed) and up to your attic. I went up about 10ft from the floor using a Mag9.5 and 3/4" pvc pipe. I continued with 3/4" pvc pipe laterally to where I go into the ceiling. Because I didn't want any connections within my ceiling I connected my pvc to some sprinkler system hose. I can get details for you if you like but after a lot of research I found it to be safe to use. It exits into the fish room and turns into 1/2" pvc (I used smaller than the 3/4" just to keep the room feeling big). I have it going directly into the ATO which is a 35gal barrel. I have an offshoot that enters into the aquarium for when I do my water change. I pump the saltwater from the water storage in the garage as well with a few turns of valves.

I like doing everything manually cause I don't have to put my trust into more components etc but you will have to pay attention to your own actions (ie. How much water you are pumping, which valves are open, etc). It's really up to you to decide what you think is best for you.

You can see some pics of mine on my build thread, but I have to update it still. Feel free to stop by and check it out if you would like too.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2461391

 

[luisagos]

So shutting it off and turning it on once a week or so would be a solution to that.?

That would fine.

I am going to say this again, the peristaltic pump is the best option to move ATO water through out the house.
They can pull or push over 100ft away, head pressure do not affect peristaltic pumps like the other pumps do.
In the nature they run, that act like having built in valves, once the pump stops moving, one or more of the rollers will always be pinching the hose. When they stop, the water flow stops.

Unlike other pumps, you can run the risk of the water flow not stopping.
Peristaltic pumps do not move a lot of water fast, unless you get into the larger units. They are perfect for ATO systems.

Like this hobby the best option is not always the cheapest.

 

[hmspradlin]

That would fine.

I am going to say this again, the peristaltic pump is the best option to move ATO water through out the house.
They can pull or push over 100ft away, head pressure do not affect peristaltic pumps like the other pumps do.
In the nature they run, that act like having built in valves, once the pump stops moving, one or more of the rollers will always be pinching the hose. When they stop, the water flow stops.

Unlike other pumps, you can run the risk of the water flow not stopping.
Peristaltic pumps do not move a lot of water fast, unless you get into the larger units. They are perfect for ATO systems.

Like this hobby the best option is not always the cheapest.

I was going to buy one of the pumps you had for sale but they for snatched up pretty quick. I'm okay with spending the money just want it done right and with the safest option of not having any failure issues.