ATS not out competing algae in my DT?

[Xandernfs]

I was directed to come here after a thread in Reef Discussion. I have a Clearwater ATS and it's growing quite a bit of multicolored algae. Everything from almost yellowish to dark green. I still have bubble algae and hair algae in my DT. It's only on one rock that was added after my tank was cycled so it came from that rock and that rock only.

My question is why do I have hair and bubble algae in my DT when I'm growing a lot of algae in my ATS. Is there anything I can do to help it out compete the algae in the DT.

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

If it's only 1 rock remove it & be done with it.

 

[Xandernfs]

If it's only 1 rock remove it & be done with it.

Problem is, I have coral glued to it.

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

Then pull it out --baste the algae with peroxide & put it back.

 

[slief]

How long has the ATS been up and running? It normally takes a number of months for the reactor to get up to speed producing turf algae and then a couple more months to get the nutrients under control. This assuming that the ATS is appropriately sized for the display and nutrient input. Also, the age of the display will have some impact as well. New rocks (live or dead) leach out nutrients and will take some time for the nutrients within the rocks to reach low enough levels that the leaching stops. This along with biological changes in a new tank is why various algae blooms are common during the first several months of starting a tank and even in the presence of an ATS, those blooms are often unavoidable. They do however work themselves out over time.

That said, it's been my experience that a properly sized ATS won't begin outcompeting algae (full reduction in algae growth) in a main display for upwards of 6 months.

 

[Xandernfs]

How long has the ATS been up and running? It normally takes a number of months for the reactor to get up to speed producing turf algae and then a couple more months to get the nutrients under control. This assuming that the ATS is appropriately sized for the display and nutrient input. Also, the age of the display will have some impact as well. New rocks (live or dead) leach out nutrients and will take some time for the nutrients within the rocks to reach low enough levels that the leaching stops. This along with biological changes in a new tank is why various algae blooms are common during the first several months of starting a tank and even in the presence of an ATS, those blooms are often unavoidable. They do however work themselves out over time.

That said, it's been my experience that a properly sized ATS won't begin outcompeting algae (full reduction in algae growth) in a main display for upwards of 6 months.

I'm approaching the 8 month mark right now.The bubble algae is what is frustrating me the most since it's a PITA to get rid of....especially since I'm not trying to pop it. I'm not sure if there is a real consensus if popping them makes it worse or not, but I'm playing it safe for now.

 

[RobZilla04]

Cut down on the light intensity in the DT, especially the white channel, to encourage the transfer of algae growth to the ATS.

Popping the bubble algae in the DT will lead to the algae spreading elsewhere when the contents settle.

 

[Xandernfs]

Cut down on the light intensity in the DT, especially the white channel, to encourage the transfer of algae growth to the ATS.

Popping the bubble algae in the DT will lead to the algae spreading elsewhere when the contents settle.

Currently I'm peaking at 30% on my ap700 while and running ocean blue as the primary light setting.

 

[RobZilla04]

Currently I'm peaking at 30% on my ap700 while and running ocean blue as the primary light setting.

Not familiar with the settings of the AP700, but I'd cut the white channel nearly off for a while. The corals will be just fine under blue actinics only.

Adjusting the flow rate through the ATS (slower) could prove helpful as well.

 

[Xandernfs]

Not familiar with the settings of the AP700, but I'd cut the white channel nearly off for a while. The corals will be just fine under blue actinics only.

Adjusting the flow rate through the ATS (slower) could prove helpful as well.

Copy that. I'll give it a try.

 

[laverda]

What light period are you running your ATS for. You might want increase it.

 

[Xandernfs]

What light period are you running your ATS for. You might want increase it.

On 24/7

 

[RobZilla04]

On 24/7

That's another issue. The algae does need a break from the light to process and grow. Generally folks run an ATS, macro reactor, or refugium light for 12 hours opposite the main display hours.

 

[Xandernfs]

That's another issue. The algae does need a break from the light to process and grow. Generally folks run an ATS, macro reactor, or refugium light for 12 hours opposite the main display hours.

Ok, I'll start running a reverse photo period. I cleaned my ATS screen yesterday and noticed that I'm not really getting a lot of dark green algae, is that an issue? Should I be getting more like that or do I need to seed it or does it even matter?

 

[RobZilla04]

Did you clean the screen completely or did you leave a little behind to grow? If you didn't leave any behind it will simply take a little longer to get started. Stick with the DT white channel very low or off, and the ATS 12hr reverse of the DT schedule.

 

[Xandernfs]

Did you clean the screen completely or did you leave a little behind to grow? If you didn't leave any behind it will simply take a little longer to get started. Stick with the DT white channel very low or off, and the ATS 12hr reverse of the DT schedule.

I always leave some behind. I did completely clean the top 2 inches, but that was because it was creating a 'bridge' and leaning out of my tank :doh:

 

[Mrs. Music]

posting your issues in the ATS thread will get you more experienced helpers.

 

[Fourstars]

I had this issue until I increase the wattage on my ATS.