automatic water change

Stability was my thought. Less parameter changes over the course of 24 hours instead of it happening in 13 minutes.

I may end up trying the full gallon out for a bit and then changing to four times a day and note any changes or differences.
 
Well lets considering this, even once a day water changes are better then a larger amount per two weeks. I wouldn't go to an extreme as to do 4 times a day. The mental block of dumping fresh salt water comes to my mind.

On another note, switching the polarity on my pump it works a lot better now. It still has the kick start issues but on average, it takes 5-10 kicks to start turning. Longest I've counted was 30 but even at that if it ran for 10-15 mins it will be fine. Nobody is counting as long as its working.
 
I'm dialing mine down to be much slower (just for my own sanity and it's level of noise... it is mounted to the side of my tank in my office room)

I had mine running at roughly 10rpm last night and couldn't hear it, and it starts/stops fine with the pwm control on it. Once I finish the plumbing up on my water change barrels I'll time how long it takes for a gallon, and then break it up into an oscillate statement to probably run 6-12 times during the day
 
Lessons to learn: :uzi: I finally got around to installing the safety float switch to turn AWC system off if fresh SW bin is empty. Reminder you dont want AWC system on since it will bring in no new water and continue emptying your tank.

I bought a horizontal float switch and installed in Brute 35 g bin. So far so good. Ran wire alonf the 1/4 inch suction line to the apex, via break out box. Tested everything was good. :spin3:

I then realize that i set the float switch 2-3 inches from bottom of bin. This means that the suction has to be below this. As many of you have probably noticed, these 1/4 suction lines tend to float some. So now i have to make SURE the suction line is well below the float switch, which doesnt give me a lot of room to spare. :headwally:

So lesson learned, if setting up a safety float switch place it high enough to give you some wiggle room if suction line tends to float some. I plan on getting something heavy to keep it down, but have to make sure it isnt something that will leach out metals (considered one of my scuba weights, but those are lead).:angryfire:
 
The first two look interesting.

I did notice that they are both 24v DC. May make it a little harder to hind a power supply, but not too much.
 
the new ones look really great to me I just haven't found a spec sheet for them yet, I'm wondering what the "encoder" does and how that will effect using it?
 
I don't see why any of them wouldn't work personally. If you decide to bite on that huge setup from the ink refilling machine let me know, as I'd definitely purchase 2 or 3 of those out of the rack for my 2 part dosing
 
Looking at them further... I'd personally go with the ametek. It has the cole palmer heads on it and the rollers keep the tube pinched against the housing 100% of the time. I've heard that's what makes these things so reliable and why they use them in medical applications as well too.

The first one you have listed just looks like it stretches the tubing for the pumping action, which as the tubing loosens up may affect it's accuracy (albeit all 3 should still wear at the same time)
 
dread240 said:
I don't see why any of them wouldn't work personally. If you decide to bite on that huge setup from the ink refilling machine let me know, as I'd definitely purchase 2 or 3 of those out of the rack for my 2 part dosing
Click to expand...

I'm gonna have to think on this a while.... LOL!
 
dread240 said:
Looking at them further... I'd personally go with the ametek. It has the cole palmer heads on it and the rollers keep the tube pinched against the housing 100% of the time. I've heard that's what makes these things so reliable and why they use them in medical applications as well too.

The first one you have listed just looks like it stretches the tubing for the pumping action, which as the tubing loosens up may affect it's accuracy (albeit all 3 should still wear at the same time)
Click to expand...

This one it is then. Thanks, for helping make up my mind!
 
dread240 said:
That big pump rack is $5.41 per pump package shipped... I may have to buy one myself
Click to expand...

I know, you can't even get the cheap crappy pump heads for that price and these are good quality, probably much better than those 3 channel bubble maggus type dosers that sell for a couple hundred.
 
rps3 said:
On another note, switching the polarity on my pump it works a lot better now. It still has the kick start issues but on average, it takes 5-10 kicks to start turning. Longest I've counted was 30 but even at that if it ran for 10-15 mins it will be fine. Nobody is counting as long as its working.
Click to expand...

When you say 5-10 kicks, do you mean it hits and doesn't move?

Try loosening up the wing nuts a little bit and see if that helps.
 
Sacohen said:
When you say 5-10 kicks, do you mean it hits and doesn't move?

Try loosening up the wing nuts a little bit and see if that helps.
Click to expand...

Yes, kicks a few times before it runs.

I've done this as well, placed washers between the two heads to keep them from binding.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
Overflow water level keeps rising and falling
Replies
16
Views
925
plunderisley
P
J
Losing fish possible tank crash
Replies
18
Views
627
leebca
L
Paul B
Think like a fish
Replies
1
Views
100
Vinny Kreyling
Vinny Kreyling
B
Water change question
Replies
11
Views
545
lb013
L
Paul B
IMO How to set up a tank to stay healthy and immune
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
zappa
Z
Back
Top