automatic water change

Yes, kicks a few times before it runs.

I've done this as well, placed washers between the two heads to keep them from binding.

Awesome rps3- at least it works, as you said a few turns, as long as both heads do the same, and both heads work at the same time....Thats all that matters. Ide add a few more minutes to your plan.
 
Set safety program with float switch on Apex in case SW bin goes empty, TESTED....:bounce1::beer:

Im all set!!!!!
 
I am FINALLLLLYYYY done cutting and glueing PVC...

I think I hate plumbing work more then anything in this hobby

Do have to finish up wiring my float switch into the apex though. My barrels have a 2" and 3/4" ports on the top, so I made a standpipe with the float at the bottom to go through one of those
 
So I finally timed my pumps off the pwm controller... takes 90 minutes exactly for 1 gallon now... compared to 8 minutes per gallon originally. Has no problem starting either even with running this slow, as I verified it like 20 times through the apex
 
So I finally timed my pumps off the pwm controller... takes 90 minutes exactly for 1 gallon now... compared to 8 minutes per gallon originally. Has no problem starting either even with running this slow, as I verified it like 20 times through the apex

Very cool:bounce1:
 
Hey Steve, I put the neoprene tubes back in and they work great. I know your concern was usage wear so this is excellent news for the next change out but we have a lot of the tygon still. Thanks again for solving the mystery, I'm sure a lot of people are thankful as I am.
 
I just can't believe we all went round and round on these things and never thought about polarity... but then again on a dc pump it NORMALLY doesn't matter.

low saltwater shutoff switch is installed in the barrel, all plumbed up and my computer/tank room looks like a freakin bomb went off in it. I'm glad my wife is so laid back and lets me play however I want because this place is a freakin mess right now
 
Hey Steve, I put the neoprene tubes back in and they work great. I know your concern was usage wear so this is excellent news for the next change out but we have a lot of the tygon still. Thanks again for solving the mystery, I'm sure a lot of people are thankful as I am.

No problem. I'm glad it was resolved. I did think about the reversed polarity, but didn't think it would make a difference.

Good to know the Norprene works, although I may be selling what little I have left to someone this weekend
 
No problem. I'm glad it was resolved. I did think about the reversed polarity, but didn't think it would make a difference.

Good to know the Norprene works, although I may be selling what little I have left to someone this weekend


LOL, so the last 10 pages between Steve, dread, Tillie, Ronnie, rps3, etc.. ALL had to do with reverse polarity???!!!!!!:headwally::headwalls:

Cool. Glad you guys resolved... No lets talk WATER CHANGES!!!, yeah...:smokin::spin3:

And maybe even some cooler ways to run this that Dr. Thompson the APEX Guru can help us with.
 
I'm considering ordering this ametek pump... Anyone have any idea how much head loss it could deal with? My mixing station is in the basement on the opposite corner of the house...It's a one story house and i was thinking of going up and over through the attic.

I like the idea of tapping into a vent in the attic but I also have a drain near the mixing station where the laundry and ro/di go into. I think I could fit one more 1/4" line in it :)

Also love the idea that someone proposed for the frag tank. DT -> Frag -> Drain.

This could also be a great way to feed a quarantine tank and still keep it isolated from DT.

One of the reasons i like the Ametek since it has three heads :)
 
I'm considering ordering this ametek pump... Anyone have any idea how much head loss it could deal with? My mixing station is in the basement on the opposite corner of the house...It's a one story house and i was thinking of going up and over through the attic.

I like the idea of tapping into a vent in the attic but I also have a drain near the mixing station where the laundry and ro/di go into. I think I could fit one more 1/4" line in it :)

Also love the idea that someone proposed for the frag tank. DT -> Frag -> Drain.

This could also be a great way to feed a quarantine tank and still keep it isolated from DT.

One of the reasons i like the Ametek since it has three heads :)

Dont know about those pumps but Dr. Thompson has proven the Stenner can deal with head pressure, and going up attics.
 
LOL, so the last 10 pages between Steve, dread, Tillie, Ronnie, rps3, etc.. ALL had to do with reverse polarity???!!!!!!:headwally::headwalls:

Cool. Glad you guys resolved... No lets talk WATER CHANGES!!!, yeah...:smokin::spin3:

And maybe even some cooler ways to run this that Dr. Thompson the APEX Guru can help us with.

Piff, I have magical powers to do a 100% water change on your tank Sir. LOL, my system won't be going in till I put together my frag tank. It's a long and very thought out process for me.

But for sure I'll need a new breakout box since I stupidly sold mine to you. :headwally: The way I'm planning to set it up is with a relay switch in conjunction with the float switch as well as the motor. Similar to what we do with low voltage in HVAC-Refrigeration as a fail safe from water overflowing the AC units and flooding into the store. That then will be connected to the breakout box or breakout wires since the box is just to be fancy.

Good job Dave for starting and Eddie for making fire. Also, we can't forget the rest of the DIY guys. I'm also following the thread on R2R. Lots of good info on both threads.
 
For $30 we'll see...but i was thinking the same thing. From what I read its more the tubing that determines the pressure.
 
Piff, I have magical powers to do a 100% water change on your tank Sir. LOL, my system won't be going in till I put together my frag tank. It's a long and very thought out process for me.

But for sure I'll need a new breakout box since I stupidly sold mine to you. :headwally: The way I'm planning to set it up is with a relay switch in conjunction with the float switch as well as the motor. Similar to what we do with low voltage in HVAC-Refrigeration as a fail safe from water overflowing the AC units and flooding into the store. That then will be connected to the breakout box or breakout wires since the box is just to be fancy.

Good job Dave for starting and Eddie for making fire. Also, we can't forget the rest of the DIY guys. I'm also following the thread on clay-boa. Lots of good info on both threads.

Oh stop whinning already and get that tank set up.

I overpaid you for that break out box anyways, just to shut you up... :spin1::wavehand:
 
I bought one breakout box from neptune for the tank.

The second one that'll go in the laundry room will just be a cable. I got it on monoprice for $1.42 I think.
 
lnevo, glad to see you found this thread. I was going to point you to it once I got the pump squared away. The Ametek seems like a good pump and for $30 what do you have to lose?
 
I risk getting started on this crazy project!

If I'm gonna do this, might as well run a line to fill my RO/DI. I'll need a single head pump, unless I use the third pump head to refill my top off and do the water change along side.

Then I could drive it off the water level sensor. So if I evap 1g per day, I also change 1g per day and put 1g back in my reservoir. I could put a limit on the number of gallons per day so that I dont dump 20g of ro/di in while dumping 20g of sw...

I already have a skimmate locker so if skimmer overflows it can only dump 1liter. Only risk is leak which I already have safeguards for.

The nice thing is that once either barrel is empty and/or my other switches get triggered, I stop the pump from running and the ato still has about 5-7 more days before it needs to be refilled.

The only problem then is if I want to just refill the ato reservoir I would either need to lug a bucket and fill it back up, but with this that should rarely happen.
 
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