automatic water change
- Thread starter DRThompson
- Start date
@zachts What relays are you using in your SW barrel to make sure it doesn't run dry. Thinking of just getting an autotopoff.com switch but open to alternatives.
Until I get another controller to automate the whole mixing station, I'm just gonna get a cheap digital timer to run it 5 minutes every 3 hours or use my crappy analog one for 15 minutes 4x a day.
Anyway, for those of you that have this up and running, has it affected your dosing routine at all? I would think not but seeing as how my alk is usually lower than my WC water not sure how this will affect that. Just thinking out loud
Steve, i think I'm good, I'll figure it out, I know its not hard, I just have no experience doing it.
Planning to use these with a cheap float switch:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400525119455?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
I like that it can be used with arduino as well by just moving the jumper.
I didn't wan't to mess with a second power supply or needing a regulator for lower voltage coil relays. They are on the slow boat but I'm patient, for now I'm just keeping a very close eye on the new salt water bucket.
ok so i read the first ten pages and didnt see an answer to my question. if i was to go with the stenner pump and set it up for a small wc each day. do i need an apex to controll it? would i have to go turn the pump on and off each day without one? i love the idea of this system but not if its gonna cost me around 300 for the pump and 500 for an apex? i have a fowlr setup so an apex just hasnt been needed for me yet. as much as id like one im a broke college kid with 2 expensive hobbies. this and fast cars! lol
Drill thru the tank. HAHA.
No baseboard heating here in FL.
It sounds like the easiest thing would be to open a small hole (about the size for an outlet) in the wall near the bottom, then get a long drill bit and drill thru the top plate in to the cavity below.
Keep the piece of drywall that you cut out so you can use that for a patch or get one of these to put in the hole you cut.
I'll be installing one of these behind the tank for the water lines to run through:
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?ab...w.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=109&cp_id=10425
Simple float switch and relay works very well for this purpose. You could buy something pre-made from spectrapure if you wanted or other sources or DIY a solution to prevent running dry like many of us have done.
Lamp timer float and relay should only set you back about $20 bucks and let you have many on/off times if you use a digital timer with multiple set points. I have one with 24 set points.
Just ordered two of those relays
.....they don't call it the slow boat for nothing :lolspin:
automatic water change
Sorry, one more stupid question...where are you sourcing float switches from? I cant find any cheap ones that have long enough leads and I don't want the metal connections inside my salt water...any thoughts there? Autotopoff.com has long ones but they are $9 before shipping...or am i being paranoid...
Sorry, one more stupid question...where are you sourcing float switches from? I cant find any cheap ones that have long enough leads and I don't want the metal connections inside my salt water...any thoughts there? Autotopoff.com has long ones but they are $9 before shipping...or am i being paranoid...
Just drill a hole in the bottom of a capped pvc riser and run your wires up out of the SW bin. the wires on most float switches with bulkhead fittings should never be submerged anyway. Solder and shrink wrap the leads to longer wires. I'm just using cheap floats off ebay.
Or you could just silicone a piece of tubing to the float to seal the wires. They also make floats that can go thru the side of the water bin as well.
Or you could just silicone a piece of tubing to the float to seal the wires. They also make floats that can go thru the side of the water bin as well.
Sacohen
New member
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Sacohen, Explain this schematic a bit would you. What is it doing?
It seems overly complicated. You only need one float and one relay to prevent operation if the SW bin runs dry.
Is this a schematic for an auto fill for a fresh water bin?
Sacohen
New member
It is, but the same concept.
The ATO Switches will can be used to shut off the timer and SW change if the low unit is triggered in the FSW barrel.
I took this from another forum post who is using it to control his RO unit to make water when it's low and stop when it reaches the high switch.
In the case of Strobes who wants to set this up but with out a controller he can use this circuit, remove the High ATO switch and connect relay between the timer and the motor to keep it from running if there is no water in the barrel.
after staring at it for a few more minutes it is the schematic for DIY version of these expensive kits:
http://spectrapure.com/AQUARIUM/AUTO-TOP-OFF-WATER-LEVEL-CONTROL/Automatic-Hi-Low-Reservoir-Top-Off
Thanks for posting that, I'd been looking for the schematic for a while and wasn't finding one.
http://spectrapure.com/AQUARIUM/AUTO-TOP-OFF-WATER-LEVEL-CONTROL/Automatic-Hi-Low-Reservoir-Top-Off
Thanks for posting that, I'd been looking for the schematic for a while and wasn't finding one.
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AquamanE
Active member
For low Salt Water bin this is the circuit you want. Just mount the float the other way around in the bottom of the bin so that when the float is UP the pump is on.
Sorry guys im not smart enough to understand those schematics, but isnt that something similar to a Autotopoff.com float switch but with the float switch turned upside down? If it is, for the money, its an excellent option for those with out controllers. Your looking at $39, all buiilt and ready to go.
And the person asking the question about controllers, NO controllers are not needed. They are a luxury. I would however consider finding timers that have one minute increments. This will make your life a heck of a lot easier.
Yes, the same thing. If you can DIY one though you will save a considerable amount of money. My low water set up cost me $6 in parts to be able to shut the pump off when the SW bin runs dry, and all connections are made via screw terminals. That is if you are only switching the DC side of a PSU. for AC switching the autotopoff.com setup is a pretty good deal especially if you're not comfortable wiring AC outlets. (thier setup slightly concerns me though since the float is operating at 120vAC and if the float wires got damaged you could get a nice little shock)
Main difference is the autotopoff.com one switches the AC outlet on/off. For many of our setups using DC pumps we only need to interrupt the DC side so it is much safer and requires fewer parts.
I much prefer the BRS kit, though assembly is required and you need to supply an extension cord to cut in half for the AC pump control, but the float operates at save 12v DC. it also requires two outlets.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aquahub-diy-top-it-off-kit-premium.html
A $14 digital 7 day lamp timer will give you up to seven on/off times down to 1 minute increments.
