automatic water change

Yes, the same thing. If you can DIY one though you will save a considerable amount of money. My low water set up cost me $6 in parts to be able to shut the pump off when the SW bin runs dry, and all connections are made via screw terminals. That is if you are only switching the DC side of a PSU. for AC switching the autotopoff.com setup is a pretty good deal especially if you're not comfortable wiring AC outlets. (thier setup slightly concerns me though since the float is operating at 120vAC and if the float wires got damaged you could get a nice little shock)

Main difference is the autotopoff.com one switches the AC outlet on/off. For many of our setups using DC pumps we only need to interrupt the DC side so it is much safer and requires fewer parts.

I much prefer the BRS kit, though assembly is required and you need to supply an extension cord to cut in half for the AC pump control, but the float operates at save 12v DC. it also requires two outlets.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aquahub-diy-top-it-off-kit-premium.html

A $14 digital 7 day lamp timer will give you up to seven on/off times down to 1 minute increments.

Great info Zachts, Thank you.

Ill continue to say the same, LOL, there are things i know i can do and others i cant and have to spend the extra cash. Im sure others on here can relate.

You need an intravenous line, i guarantee i hook you up, whether in your arms, feet, forehead, or neck. You drop dead in front of me the chances of you surviving increase dramatically. But please dont ask me to put together a switch, LOL.

BTW- ive had my ATO switches for many years from ATO dot com and never had an issue.
 
System almost done, maybe one more week until full operation. Brute containers and pumps, relays, floats, and plumbing all on hand and being set up this weekend for making this as easy as flipping a switch and dumping in some salt.

So close, just waiting on a few more fittings to be delivered next week.

Sorry Guys who are using the Ametek pumps, barb fittings don't last long connected to RO/DI tubing. (I'd hoped for longer life but, worked for a week but I noticed a few small cracks and a small drip from one today and shut the system down. I'm ordering threaded barb fittings for the Pump tubing that will attach to John Guest fittings for the RO/Tubing. (US Plastics)

A few more dollars in parts and shipping but still coming in under $200 easily for the entire system including mixing pumps and brute cans, and everything else........

I was going for doing this on the super cheap but decided, aw screw it, I'd rather be really lazy and just flip a switch and dump a bag of salt once a month! Never having to worry about fresh top off water or Salt water ever again.

Will post pictures when it's all finalized.
 
I never saw this thread, only the one on the other site. Looks like allot of people have set them up. Mines been working awesome. I am a little confused with all the power supply issues tho I have three heads all connected to a single motor and have had zero issues I use a 4 amp 13.8 volt power supply. As of now I have my old display water feeding in to my qt tank and the third pump pulls water out of qt and on to the lawn. Been working good.
 
Currently I mix my kalk water manually into that bin (holds 10gal) and the single head stenner pump dispenses it to the top of the display tank (approx 30 feet away). That bin use to sit behind my tank in a closet; I moved it into the garage when I got the second stenner pump. Eventually I hope to build a larger ATO reservoir to fit that space. I don't top off directly from my ro because I like dosing kalk water.


How does the the ATO pump know when to turn on. Did you run a extension cord all the way to the ATO under the display where the float switch is, to the garage?

Thinking of setting up an ATO system like this
 
How does the the ATO pump know when to turn on. Did you run a extension cord all the way to the ATO under the display where the float switch is, to the garage?

Thinking of setting up an ATO system like this

Hey Mike,
I ran a 50ft usb extension to my garage to run an EB4 power unit. My ATO stenner pump is controlled thru my apex.
 
I am doing something similar. The big difference is that I am not going to do a continuous water change. I am setting up a 20 gallon aquarium connected to my sump, with a bulkhead on the bottom (so I can drain it completely) and one on the side keeping the level close to the maximum of the aquarium. The return from the main tank will be on this tank. When I decide I will perform a water change, I will stop the sump, activate a solenoid valve that will open the bottom drain (wait about 5 minutes to drain all the water), close the solenoid and then pump new saltwater to this tank.
My RO and tank for mixing salt are also in my garage. This too will be controlled by apex, with a EB8 (I need more outlets since I run several solenoids from the RO system for water changes on freshwater tanks and ATO for the reef tank).
 
I am doing something similar. The big difference is that I am not going to do a continuous water change. I am setting up a 20 gallon aquarium connected to my sump, with a bulkhead on the bottom (so I can drain it completely) and one on the side keeping the level close to the maximum of the aquarium. The return from the main tank will be on this tank. When I decide I will perform a water change, I will stop the sump, activate a solenoid valve that will open the bottom drain (wait about 5 minutes to drain all the water), close the solenoid and then pump new saltwater to this tank.
My RO and tank for mixing salt are also in my garage. This too will be controlled by apex, with a EB8 (I need more outlets since I run several solenoids from the RO system for water changes on freshwater tanks and ATO for the reef tank).

Cool. So how does the fresh water go back to the tank,

AND pics please.
 
How does the the ATO pump know when to turn on. Did you run a extension cord all the way to the ATO under the display where the float switch is, to the garage?

Thinking of setting up an ATO system like this

Mike- im almost sure i heard Dr.T say he controls the ATO with float switches hooked up to Apex via a breakout box. Ide consider this too, but my ATO works so well with my cheap autotopoff dot com float switches that i dare not mess with it.
 
Cool. So how does the fresh water go back to the tank,

AND pics please.

For the ATO and for the freshwater tanks I rely on the pressure of the RO system. For the water change I will use a diaphragm pump since I need to pump through the attic. I will send pictures as soon as I have it working.
 
Cool. So how does the fresh water go back to the tank,

AND pics please.

Here the diagram. I hope it helps... Let me know if you need any information.
 

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Here the diagram. I hope it helps... Let me know if you need any information.

That is the type system I was planing for my next setup more or less, untill I stumbled upon this thread. the dual or triple head pumps are so much simpler to set up. No additional fancy PVC plumbing or bulkheads and no need for additional controls for solenoid valves.

All you need is a float and a relay to ensure the fresh saltwater bin doesn't run dry.
 
So i got my relays in and will be figuring out my wiring soon. I'm toying with the idea of setting up another brute or other container to store mixed saltwater so that I can mix new water without interrupting the AWC process. What are you guys doing?
 
So i got my relays in and will be figuring out my wiring soon. I'm toying with the idea of setting up another brute or other container to store mixed saltwater so that I can mix new water without interrupting the AWC process. What are you guys doing?

Have any of you guys running the alternate pumps (other than litermeter and stenner) got your systems up and running? Curious since im speaking about this in 2 days and have yet to see one running.
 
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