Basement sump plumbing

96TL

New member
Hi all. I've been out of the hobby for a while, over 10 years, and want to start a new reef. My last tank was a 125. I'm thinking of a 240 this time around.

I now have the space and ability to go with a basement sump.

Do you guys use spa-flex the whole way?

Would I run one drain line and one return? Or two of each?

Also, I plan on going through the wall and down instead of through the floor directly. For those who did it this way, how did you terminate the plumbing through the drywall? I was thinking maybe a modified washer machine box and trim?

Thanks.
 
I use strong hose on the up-line: the down-line is passive and gets spaflex at the last. I've contemplated a wall entry, and I'd probably go for a simple escutcheon to neaten it up. (I used floor) The fewer joints the better.
 
I did a BeanAnimal drain (tuned siphon, open channel with some water flow, dry/empty siphon for those moments where Ex-Lax won't help) and a single return line through the floor, though I teed it off for two returns at the tank. I think you should determine how much turnover you want through your sump and build a drain system that will handle that with room to spare.

I used solid PVC for the entire drain, but a short length of soft tubing between my pump and tank isolates vibrations to the basement.
 
I did straight PVC through the floor. Once in the basement there is a 15 horizontal to travel.

I have two 1" drains from the tank that tee to a 1.5" before going through the floor. The return is a 3/4' line that tee at the tank to two outlets, and the pump is an Awaki 100. Because of the high head pressure my flow is 640 gph from the Awaki.
 
I use ultra (spa) flex exclusively now. Occasionally need a hard PVC elbow, but mostly just bending the hose.
 
100% a cost vs effort decision..

rigid is cheaper in materials and for a straight/simple run rigid is just as quick/easy..
now throw in some bends and loop around the walls and not having to do multiple elbow/angle transitions may just make flex "cheaper" and smarter when time/effort come into play.
 
100% a cost vs effort decision..

rigid is cheaper in materials and ffor a straight/simple run rigid is just as quick/easy..
now throw in some bends and loop around the walls and not having to do multiple elbow/angle transitions may just make flex "cheaper" and smarter when time/effort come into play.

I set mine up 5 years ago and never even thought about flex. I have 19 90 degree elbows in my return line - creating the high head pressure. Might try flex from where it comes through the floor to the tank.

Can it be connected to rigid PVC, and how?
 
Can it be connected to rigid PVC, and how?
Sure.. you can use normal rigid fittings with it... couplers/elbows,etc...
Thats whats nice about it.. No need for any special fittings.. Glues right into normal PVC fittings..
 
Replaced all my vinyl tubing with flex PVC. Former was riddled with flow robbing barb fittings. Latter solvent welds right into standard PVC fittings. It's a beautiful thing because with my basement sump not located directly below the display lots of twists and turns are required. I have typically bought it in 100 ft. Bulk rolls. More expensive than bog standard PVC pipe from homedepot ..... though not by as much as one might think.
 
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