Bean Animal plumbing help

Suji

Member
Hi setting up bean animal for my 50 lowboy tank with Modular marine overflow with 3 1” drains

Since its a shallow tank the drop from overflow to sump is very short so using 45 elbow or pvc going slanted is not an option otherwise I cant use unions or gate valve…gate valve cost me 130$ canadian so expensive.

Is the 90 elbow ok? Will that short drop and than short horizontal and drop again cause any issues for bean animal for noise or flow?

Will it cause any issue to purge air if power failure and to start back up?
 

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It might gurgle extra long after a power outage but it'll still clear. I'm not sure where you plan to route the other two drains but you definitely don't want to fight with that control valve because the other pipes are in the way...
 
It might gurgle extra long after a power outage but it'll still clear. I'm not sure where you plan to route the other two drains but you definitely don't want to fight with that control valve because the other pipes are in the way...
The other pipe will go right underneath the gatevalve so should be ok?
 
It will likely be fine, but why not use 2 45s a d put the valve between them. Short, fewer bends and cleaner.
Thanks for your reply, I read that putting the gate valve near the end is always best? And not putting the valve on the horizontal side?
 
There are several reasons for putting the valve near the end of the run. In general everything before the valve will remain flooded and laminar everything after, possibly turbulent (noise, oscillations, etc) depending on pipe diameter and/or of the end is open to air.

A horizontal valve is not really an issue - nor is one on a 45.

In your case, for ease of plumbing, pipe length, etc. I would put a 45 at the bottom of the drop, then the valve, then another 45 into the sump.
 
Which is better?
It might gurgle extra long after a power outage but it'll still clear. I'm not sure where you plan to route the other two drains but you definitely don't want to fight with that control valve because the other pipes are in the way...
 

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That will work and is much cleaner.
Thanks!! Only issue I see with the 45s vs 90 is if I take it apart for cleaning the 45 plumbing will be hard to clean vs the 90 if you look the gate valve is facing down everything is easy accesible.

If everything before the valve is flooded, wouldn’t the 90 work better since the valve is near the end?
 
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Thanks!! Only issue I see with the 45s vs 90 is if I take it apart for cleaning the 45 plumbing will be hard to clean vs the 90 if you look the gate valve is facing down everything is easy accesible.

If everything before the valve is flooded, wouldn’t the 90 work better since the valve is near the end?
All the noise is generated by air entering from above, so silence is not related to where the valve is. If you're thinking about the water splashing out the bottom, that is overthinking it IMO. The 45's is a better arrangement and you disassembling it to clean it will probably never need to happen.
 
All the noise is generated by air entering from above, so silence is not related to where the valve is. If you're thinking about the water splashing out the bottom, that is overthinking it IMO. The 45's is a better arrangement and you disassembling it to clean it will probably never need to happen.
It will need to happen for stuff like vermitid snails!! I do this often in my other non sump tank so if it ever clogs I want to have that peace of mind lol


The 90s definitely helps me have space to do the piping and the gatevalve will be at the end….the 45s makes sure there is no horizontal run and no quick 90 2x but the gate valve is at the very end.

I prefer the 90 obviously is there way I can run both without glueing it to see or will it all fall apart with the water passing in it lol?
 
Unglued sections under vacuum will leak air and not be indicative of the final operating state, but you are welcome to try. Either setup should work at a reasonable flow rate. With low head, this setup is not going to do 2,000 GPH but will do several hundred easily.

My overflows have been setup for close to 20 years…. Never cleaned other than exercising a valve here and there… they are crusty old ball valves from Lowe’s, not fancy gate valves. I purchased get valves for he setup but never put them in.
 
Unglued sections under vacuum will leak air and not be indicative of the final operating state, but you are welcome to try. Either setup should work at a reasonable flow rate. With low head, this setup is not going to do 2,000 GPH but will do several hundred easily.

My overflows have been setup for close to 20 years…. Never cleaned other than exercising a valve here and there… they are crusty old ball valves from Lowe’s, not fancy gate valves. I purchased get valves for he setup but never put them in.
Its a 50 gallon tank 20 gallon sump the max turnover I would do is 10x which is 500gph max, my concern was if you see where the 90 is its very short right before the other 90 and the drop before the first 90 is also short so was not sure if this will cause any issues in air being stuck on power failure upon restart and flow but looks like it’s not the case so will do that as the 45s will take too much space and not look clean
 
There is a simple answer to this. The pipe with the 45s will work better because air in the pipe can always rise when it starts. Air in a horizontal pipe sits there until you push it out. It rises to the top of the pipe and the water flows under. It may never push out if the flow isn't sufficient.
How do you push it out
 
The air either rises against the flow and leaves the top of the drain or is pushed out the bottom by sufficient flow.
Do you see this horizontal being an issue?
 

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I would not build it that way. It may be fine though.
Also
I would make the pipe coming out of the bulkhead a bit longer. That way if you have to redo it, you saw the pipe off above the old fitting and have room to glue a new fitting on.

My drains work and they flow 12 feet sideways
None of them are truly horizontal though
You prefer this?
 

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