Blue Tang In Hypo

[BTTRFLYGRL]

Funny, Terryb and Leebca [our expert members] never mentioned any of that

 

[XeniaMania]

Sometimes you gotta think outside the box.. Either way, you're welcome to try, but they do. My Midas Blenny eats grapefruit too.

 

[Angela Short]

I wouldn't think items not naturally found in the ocean would be a good idea as a diet for a marine fish. Just my opinion....

XeniaMania, I also feel you are a tad irresponsible in giving the "do nothing I have and it works for me advise" for the natural immunity argument you are on lately. Many uneducated readers may take your "undocumented" advise as proven and loose many fish as a result. Just because one person "happens" to have had a easy time with ick as you have can in no way dispute the millions of hours of "documented" reaserch and millions of dollars spent learning the life cycle of this nasty bug. All which basically come up with the same 2 treatments, hyposalinity or copper. Not picking an argument just saying you should be a little more conciderate of the many people who may have fish die as a result of doing nothing. And let the guys who have the means with the proper equipment and testing facilities to document there findings to "think out of the box" when it comes to figuring out new methods of treating fish diseases. But as previously stated I am a individual and have a opinion .

mis20t, I think you are doing the right thing by your fish and are wise to seek advise when in doubt. I would give it a few days to see if the scratching worsens but hopefully it will subside. Eating and breathing normal are great signs it is just ick and nothing worse. Maybe have a good anibiotic on hand incase the fish shows signs of a bacterial infection from all the broken skin from scratching.... Good luck.

 

[Angela Short]

A slime coat additive wouldn't hurt either

 

[XeniaMania]

I will admit perhapse I came on to this thread improperly. I am not advocating a do nothing approach, but I also shouldn't have just started off how I did and I should apologize for that. I have later on stated that my methodogy does involve adding Iodine to the water, and feeding Vitamin C to the fish. Some of us just have a different approach and view to things. Again, if I came off wrong to many of you, I apologize, but just wanted to show that there are other ways.

 

[Dawn II]

IIs Lugols safe to add??

 

[Brad Black]

I am with xennia on this one- the point of this whole forum is to gather multpile opinions and do research to come up with a solution that will work for you, and your pocketbook. I think people should be able to post without the fear of being ridculed constantly if you don't agree with the general consensus, and I think trying different things is how all of us arrived at many of the solutions that we currently have. I am not saying xenia is right, but has a right to post his opinions, right or different without being ridiculed.
Anyway my question-I currently have 2 tangs (powder and chevron) in a 29g QT for ich tx by hypo. Tehy were doing fine until today, now they are both on the bottom breathing very rapidly (bad). I fear that I will lose them both. I have been battling with both ammonia and PH (PH is about 8.0 and ammonia was .8). I have been doing daily W/C's (20-50%) and using carbon (tank is cycled) to help with ammonia. They both have tissue sloughing and look terrible. I have been trying to add buffer everyday for PH and using kent ammonia detox as well, nothing seems to be going well with hypo no matter how I try.
I am getting desperate at this point and looking for any more ideas-can I use a product like proper PH to raise PH or will that do more harm than good? Any other ideas? Please help! Thanks much. I hope my opinions don't keep some from giving helpful advice.
BB

 

[Dawn II]

I lost a tang doing hypo- I had alk swings. I would Put your tangs in a bucket with enough water and airstone- and do a total water change.

 

[Dawn II]

Once again- is Lugols safe to add to the reef- and how much? As far as adding things not naturally found in the sea- like citrus- neither is garlic found in the sea, and this is widely used in tanks.

 

[Brad Black]

too late-they are both goners (powder and chevron)-what a bummer! Luckily I didn't pay for the chevron, but is sad 'cause he was around for a couple a years. I have been at this it seems non-stop for the last week and and driving my poor wife nuts with all of this. Bad timing 'cause we also have a sick baby in the house to deal with at the same time-fortunately he is doing better...for those doing hypo, be careful, it can be a real challenge. I learned a lot from this episode. I will still treat the remaining fish with hypo but you can not underestimate the value of W/C's and water testing!
BB

 

[Dawn II]

Sorry...

 

[reg828]

if you do hypo you need i think bigger thank at least 29 gallons, so that way water parameters do not change fast and need to have good biological filter going for a while. the reason fish dies or stressed out when transferred to qt tank, is because qt tank just got set up and its gonna go into cycle and fish will become stress and die. because of this i came up an idea of permanent qt tank that is always running with some fish in there and if i am going to transfer sick fish from main tank, it would be easier for me and the fish...

 

[Dawn II]

What do you do with the fish in the QT when you add the sick ones for treatment? I've always heard a 20 gal. is sufficient for QT unless you have something really big.

 

[Brad Black]

I had mine in a 29g QT and the levels were still all over the place. I fially gave up and put the fish back into the diplay (all are easy to catch) with ich still on them. I will start over with the QT and then in after the QT cycles will replace them back into QT, but this time I will NOT use hypo, it was too dificult to maintain correct water params for me, I will try copper this time. I think that part of my problem was that I had a major emergency with ich and probably rushed the fish into QT before the tank had completely cycled (possibly). I got my QT set up from the local newspaper with hood, lights and filter for $50-cheap for a 29g I think (with all the fixins). What a major bummer losing all those fish, actuaLLY A COMPLETE NIGHTMARE. I have never spent so much time with W/C's, testing and so on and worry since I started in this hobby than when trying hypo. I think I would have been better off leaving them all in the display and losing only a few than what happened. I am not saynig don't QT, but be very careful with water quality if you do!

 

[Dawn II]

I know exactly what you mean by time spent and night mare- been there. Once agian, sorry. Loses are so tough- especially when one tries so hard.

 

[BTTRFLYGRL]

Sorry for your lose Brad..I understand your frustration
You mention the fishs skin 'Slothing' off..I do wonder if you had another issue besides ich. That does not seem typical.

Hypo is alot of work, but copper is too. With copper you have more problems with ammonia spikes and keeping copper at levels where it actually works...too little doesn't work-to much can kill your fish
I have done both, I find Hypo to be the easiest of the two by far..

 

[Brad Black]

If copper is even harder then I am really bummed! The only good news is that I now only have 3 Chromis left to treat. If you can call that good news! Kim- what aspects of copper do you find the most difficult? My biggest probles were ammonia and PH/ALK, are these difficult with copper also? After I re set the QT I will be trying again. I hate to imagine going thru hypo again.
Bye the way, I really aprreciate the kind words, this has been tough for not only me, but my kids also! Sometimes it seems on this site so many are so fast to critisize and that does nothing but frustrate the desperate hobbiest even more, so that makes the kind words even better.
Also, kim, I think the sloughing was possibly due to secondary oportunistic infections and poor circulation in the end (lots of fin rot and so on also). Who knows maybe even Lat line. Hard to tell when so many problems are happening at once...
Thanks again,
BB

 

[emperior911]

fish can become immune to ich

 

[emperior911]

I used to manage a local fish store. I had first dibs on every shipment at wholesale prices... i used to try a fish out.. if i didn't like it or had issues with agression, i would take it back to the store and resale it. i've had yellow tang, purple tang, sailfin tang, powder blue tang, blue tang, naso tang, scopas tang, niger trigger, picasso trigger, crosshatch trigger, bursa trigger, 2 emperor angel, blueline angel, mejestic angel, queen angel, banna wrasse, red coris wrasse, lunare wrasse, coral hind grouper, copperband butterfly.. scott's fairy wrasse, dogface puffer, 2 golden puffers, s&s puffer, tobies, 4 different lions, zebra moray, 3 snowflakes, goldentail eel, peppered moray, purple firefish, royal gramma, 5 different pairs of clown ETC i can actually go on for days but you get the picture. see the problem was i would go reef, then agressive, back to reef and so on. I Believe in natural immunity. 90 percent of fish i have encountered have developed imunity to ich. anytime i would add a new fish, the new fish would get ich... no other fish in the tank would get ich. i have only lost maybe 5% of the fish over the years...

i'm not saying that you shouldn't quarantine your fish... but for example i wouldn't pull all your fish out for a mild outbreak. it make make it worse

 

[Dawn II]

So, you would just let it run it's course, and it just died off? How big was the reef tank? With most reefs it would be impossible to pull all your fish out. I am currently trying to catch a clown.