Bought new led light fixture from China.

[chem368]

Let me know if you find a cool option to mount them. I am about to use 1/2" conduit bent over the tank to hang my 2 s-120's. I'm running them back to front, not across the tank. I am wondering if the radion kits would work to mount mine since they are so small (16"x8").

 

[Fuzzy]

Anyone have issues with their wired controller?
I put in basic program with no overlaps in sequences, and for some reason a couple channels turned themselves on overnight.

 

[alwaysthirsty]

I ran into something similar when I first programmed it. Make sure the first and last sequence(s) (I only use 5 so 5-8 is at 0%) end with 0% to keep the lights off. Post your config so we can see how you're programmed. Otherwise I'm assuming that's your problem.

 

[alwaysthirsty]

Just as I'm loving the S300 as does my corals on my 120, I'm going to do a new build with a 300DD. It's 72x36x27. What's the best Malibu config for this new build? 2 x S400s with 90deg? Perhaps 3 x S200s between the top braces...? Will 90deg be able to cover the 27in depth? I plan to have a canopy. Thanks!

 

[rlantigua]

Mine just arrived to us... Yeah...

 

[Gillguy]

Anyone have issues with their wired controller?
I put in basic program with no overlaps in sequences, and for some reason a couple channels turned themselves on overnight.

Fuzzy I have written on this before cause I ran into the same problem when I first programmed it. On every channel the first and last sequence must be 0%. If you don't do this the controller will start trying to reach the percentage set for the next sequence. So if the first is 0% and the last is 0% then the entire time between them will stay at 0% and then once sequence 2 time arrives the light turns on and increases by 1% until it reaches the set target %. Good luck and post some pics of your tank.

 

[Gillguy]

Just as I'm loving the S300 as does my corals on my 120, I'm going to do a new build with a 300DD. It's 72x36x27. What's the best Malibu config for this new build? 2 x S400s with 90deg? Perhaps 3 x S200s between the top braces...? Will 90deg be able to cover the 27in depth? I plan to have a canopy. Thanks!

Personally I think two S400 side by side will work best and you can use 60 degree optics. What you need to do is figure out the spacing between the clusters on the S400. Maybe your braces fall between the spaces of the clusters. If not then getting smaller units and placing them in between the braces will work. Six S150 two each side by side between braces will work and if you do that you can use 60 optics to allow you reach the bottom of that tank. However, six S150 will be more expensive than two S400. Or like I said, maybe six of the S120 which are 16 inches long and placing them front to back will work but using these you might need 90 optics to get full coverage.

SammL on this thread had a similar problem and I also suggested that maybe buying smaller units and placing them front to back between the braces might work. May he or someone else with the similar problem will chime in.

 

[Fuzzy]

Thanks for the replies!
Turns out I missed one setting on SENCE (I think they meant SCENE) 2 that wasn't at -0- for the first cue.... :headwally:

I really like the royal blue LED's, which you'll be able to see by my template. I'm going to be changing out the 4 Blue on CH3 and replacing them with Royal Blue.
This is a work in progress - that kind of matches my MH/T5/LED half.
Once I install the track and 2nd S200, I'll really tweak the lights.
I'll post some pics after work this week, but so far I'm really liking the LEDZeal fixture.

 

[alwaysthirsty]

Thanks Gillguy, I'll wait to see if rickyb or sammL has feedback on their config. But your suggestion of 2 x S400s makes sense. More research to be done...

 

[Fuzzy]

After playing around with the controller, I finally figured out what Gillguy was saying. The changes are not a simple on/off. The values ramp up to the highest level set, then slowly ramp up or down to the next sequence... Pretty impressive for a bare bones controller.

Gillguy, I really appreciate all you've done helping so many of us with this new product!

After having the lights on for the weekend, I hear what others have said about the noisy fan on the PSU. I'll definitely be looking into a way to fix that. Might be something as simple as mounting a small muffin fan over the cooling slats and pushing air into the unit.

Anyhow, Here's my most recent schedule where I put in a couple place holders to keep it at my max value. And stop it from ramping up in the morning...

 

[SteJ]

Got my tracking number today and should get the light later this week. Will be another few weeks though before I can get it setup due to tank upgrade. One thing I was wondering today. What's the dimmer remote like?

 

[Gillguy]

After playing around with the controller, I finally figured out what Gillguy was saying. The changes are not a simple on/off. The values ramp up to the highest level set, then slowly ramp up or down to the next sequence... Pretty impressive for a bare bones controller.

Gillguy, I really appreciate all you've done helping so many of us with this new product!

After having the lights on for the weekend, I hear what others have said about the noisy fan on the PSU. I'll definitely be looking into a way to fix that. Might be something as simple as mounting a small muffin fan over the cooling slats and pushing air into the unit.

Anyhow, Here's my most recent schedule where I put in a couple place holders to keep it at my max value. And stop it from rampbying up in the morning...

I'm glad many of you are satisfied with the unit. I did my research and personally saw and had hands on many different led brands. Especially at macna. But the prices were ridiculous. I took a chance on this unit especially ordering it from China but it looked good based on the specs and CS was top notch. It's not the best unit out there and it's not prefect but there is nothing out there even close for the price. Now that many people have them i'm sure some modifications will be made to improve the unit

 

[rlantigua]

I'm glad many of you are satisfied with the unit. I did my research and personally saw and had hands on many different led brands. Especially at macna. But the prices were ridiculous. I took a chance on this unit especially ordering it from China but it looked good based on the specs and CS was top notch. It's not the best unit out there and it's not prefect but there is nothing out there even close for the price. Now that many people have them i'm sure some modifications will be made to improve the unit

mine just came in... looks a solid unit. Still haven't play with it. I going blind looking for Gillguy's custom settings. I though I had it book mark

can you point me to it?

 

[Fuzzy]

mine just came in... looks a solid unit. Still haven't play with it. I going blind looking for Gillguy's custom settings. I though I had it book mark

can you point me to it?

I did the same thing yesterday, It's post # 356, here's a cut & paste from Gillguys post:

"Ok as far as my DIY settings, Channel #1 (all blue) and channel #3 (Blue & UV) turn on at 6:30 am and slowly ramp up to a maximum 75% by 11:30 am. Those two channels stay at 75% for five hours and start decreasing back to 0% by 8:00 pm. There are eight settings. (The settings are called Sequences.) Like I have mentioned before, all four channels must be programmed to have the first and the last settings at 0%. This is because if one of them is at any percentage the unit will continue to reach for that goal. However, the other six settings can be set at any time and percentage and the unit will increase by 1% until it reaches it. For example, here are the DIY settings for the two channels I mentioned above, 6:30 am 0%, 8:00 am 20%, 9:00 am 35%, 10:00 am 55%, 11:30 75%, 4:30 pm 75%, 6:30 pm 35%, 8:00 pm 0%.

Channel #2 (all white) turn on at 8:00 am and ramp up to 70% at 12:00 pm. It stays at 70% for four hours till 4:00 pm. Then it decreases to 0% by 7:00 pm. Channel #4 (four blue & one red & one green) turn on at 9:00 am and increases to a maximum of 45 % at 12:00 pm. It stays at 45% four hours till 4:00 pm and then decreases to 0% by 6:00 pm. The settings for these two channels are similar to the pattern of the first two.

I still use three T-5’s. I am down to three hours total. They come on at 12:00 pm and turn off at 3:00 pm. It’s more of a midday affect. If I could eventually ramp up the LEDS to 90% I believe I can remove the T-5’s but the last time I increased to 80% on the first three channels my top corals became stressed out. I might have to slowly increase the channels by 1% per week for acclimation. When I got the unit I started at 40% and increased by 5% weekly till 75% and then 80% and that’s when I noticed the lights were too powerful and backed off. Most of my corals are encrusted and can’t be moved lower. Even if I could move them, I have no room for them. I might need to try different optics, 90 or 120 for the back rows because it’s those LEDS that are closest to the SPS in the back and top of the tank. Hope that answers your question.

I will do another post today with a video showing the tank lights with my current DIY settings with and without T-5’s and also the unit with and without T-5’s at 100% on all channels."

 

[conix67]

Like I thought, not much visible light but I bet in person those corals are glowing!

Yes, the florescence from those corals are most obvious under UV lights, so I took another set of photos /w UV at 100% and camera settings adjusted to make more of what's in it is visible.

Anything that is purple/violet are simply reflection from the light. All other colors are florescence from the coral. Green/teal dominates but there are other colors visible - pink/orange.

for whatever the reason, the light beams shining down through the water column is most visible and obvious under UV lights.

Some closeups, with UV at 100%

Some of my fishes, with ALL channels at 100%. No T5, just LEDs only.

Also, now I'm able to take reasonable top down shots without special viewing boxes. It wasn't possible with T5s before.

You can see all 4 colors of LEDs I have - white, blue, royal blue, UV. The difference is obvious.

Froggy frag..

I'm very happy with my LedZeal S300 so far!

 

[Fuzzy]

I'm glad many of you are satisfied with the unit. I did my research and personally saw and had hands on many different led brands. Especially at macna. But the prices were ridiculous. I took a chance on this unit especially ordering it from China but it looked good based on the specs and CS was top notch. It's not the best unit out there and it's not prefect but there is nothing out there even close for the price. Now that many people have them i'm sure some modifications will be made to improve the unit

I for one am glad you did.
I knew I wanted to make a change in my lighting, but I had a hard time spending what it would take to light my tank the way I wanted it. I'm pretty good with a soldering pencil and was seriously considering building a DIY light - similar to the units DIY LED makes. But when I started to price things out, and then add my time into it, this fixture just made sense. Even with all the junk I went through to get it, I'm still happy.

I'm going to order the T - Track I posted earlier and properly install the fixture. Right now it's on the legs that put it too close to the surface. I'm seeing distinct lines of coverage with the royal blues. Once I get it about 10" above the water that should all go away. Then I'll break out my wife's Canon and take some good pictures for a real side by side comparison with the MH's.

Again, thanks for all your help!

 

[rlantigua]

I did the same thing yesterday, It's post # 356, here's a cut & paste from Gillguys post:

"Ok as far as my DIY settings, Channel #1 (all blue) and channel #3 (Blue & UV) turn on at 6:30 am and slowly ramp up to a maximum 75% by 11:30 am. Those two channels stay at 75% for five hours and start decreasing back to 0% by 8:00 pm. There are eight settings. (The settings are called Sequences.) Like I have mentioned before, all four channels must be programmed to have the first and the last settings at 0%. This is because if one of them is at any percentage the unit will continue to reach for that goal. However, the other six settings can be set at any time and percentage and the unit will increase by 1% until it reaches it. For example, here are the DIY settings for the two channels I mentioned above, 6:30 am 0%, 8:00 am 20%, 9:00 am 35%, 10:00 am 55%, 11:30 75%, 4:30 pm 75%, 6:30 pm 35%, 8:00 pm 0%.

Channel #2 (all white) turn on at 8:00 am and ramp up to 70% at 12:00 pm. It stays at 70% for four hours till 4:00 pm. Then it decreases to 0% by 7:00 pm. Channel #4 (four blue & one red & one green) turn on at 9:00 am and increases to a maximum of 45 % at 12:00 pm. It stays at 45% four hours till 4:00 pm and then decreases to 0% by 6:00 pm. The settings for these two channels are similar to the pattern of the first two.

I still use three T-5's. I am down to three hours total. They come on at 12:00 pm and turn off at 3:00 pm. It's more of a midday affect. If I could eventually ramp up the LEDS to 90% I believe I can remove the T-5's but the last time I increased to 80% on the first three channels my top corals became stressed out. I might have to slowly increase the channels by 1% per week for acclimation. When I got the unit I started at 40% and increased by 5% weekly till 75% and then 80% and that's when I noticed the lights were too powerful and backed off. Most of my corals are encrusted and can't be moved lower. Even if I could move them, I have no room for them. I might need to try different optics, 90 or 120 for the back rows because it's those LEDS that are closest to the SPS in the back and top of the tank. Hope that answers your question.

I will do another post today with a video showing the tank lights with my current DIY settings with and without T-5's and also the unit with and without T-5's at 100% on all channels."

Gracias!! ... :dance:

 

[rickyb]

I finally set up one S-200 on legs over half my tank. I'm very happy with the results. Being able to see the LED's and my trusty MH/T5 rig side by side has definitely sold me on the LED's. I spent a couple hours just playing with the DIY settings...

Next project is going to be permanently mounting the fixtures to the canopy. I'm not a fan of the cheap wire rope hanging hardware, so I'm looking for a more flexible mounting rig.
Has anyone tried a simple T-Track system?

http://www.rockler.com/universal-t-track-universal-t-track

T-Track, a couple stainless steel eye bolts with S hooks or caribiners attached to the fixture mounting bolt and you've got a easy way to adjust and safely rig the fixture.

I should add I fly concert size sound and lighting systems for a living, so I'm a bit over the top when it come to rigging anything...

I was looking for something like this, thanks for posting. Unfortunately is not available until 7/2014

 

[Fuzzy]

I was looking for something like this, thanks for posting. Unfortunately is not available until 7/2014

Yeah, I noticed that when I went to order... they were in stock last week...
But there are a couple other brands out there that look pretty good.
Here's another option:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2003911/8885/incra-ttrack-48-length.aspx

I've got 2 - S200's, that fit perfectly over the halves of my tank. So I don't need the lateral length. I'm going to cut them down into 18" strips so I can adjust the front to back position. Side to side can be done by moving the mounting lugs on the fixture.

 

[rickyb]

Yeah, I noticed that when I went to order... they were in stock last week...
But there are a couple other brands out there that look pretty good.
Here's another option:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2003911/8885/incra-ttrack-48-length.aspx

I've got 2 - S200's, that fit perfectly over the halves of my tank. So I don't need the lateral length. I'm going to cut them down into 18" strips so I can adjust the front to back position. Side to side can be done by moving the mounting lugs on the fixture.

I found another option. Will need to check if it would work.
http://www.orangealuminum.com/t-track/t-track.html