Breeding Clams at home

BluScrnOdeth

Darin Schmidt
This is an attempt to breed clams at home. I will do everything in my power to NOT harm the clams and try to make this successful.

The one thing that bothers me the most is how to get zooxanthellae without killing or severely hurting another clam, so that has yet to be determined on what to do.... Wondering if i might be able to just "scrape" some off provided i can keep the clams shell open without permanently damaging it.

This will NOT be done only in my display tank. The large clams WILL live in my DT but will NOT be breeding in it.

I will give you just a basic overview of what i plan on doing. I call it basic because I'm sure it will change a thousand times over the process of actually doing it.

Basically:
Let them out of the water for an hour at a time, warm them to about 85 degrees at most and place them back in the DT till they start to get their groove on. If that doesnt work, i'll wait 30min and repeat the process. If 2-3 attempts fail, i'll wait a week and attempt the same but for a longer duration. Maybe 1.5 hrs.

Then IF they start pouring out stuff, i'll shift them to a water container filled with PREMADE, 83 degree water (to help avoid temp shock), NOT tank water. Once the eggs start coming out I will shift it to another bucket. I will do the same for Clam 2.

Since Clams can lay 75% more sperm than eggs, i will dilute it to a 5:1 mixture. Yes i said 5:1. I would rather under fertilize than over fertilize. Then mix (depending on how many are there) then in a 10-20gal tank. Though i do have a spare 55gal i'm not doing anything with....

Then follow the Clam Guide for the rest of the process. Once they are 14-15 days old, i will be putting them in my refuge tank after a 3hr acclimation period. and wait for them to get acclimated to that. Then maybe after a month, if they are over an inch or two, i'll put them in my DT with the LEDs so they can take advantage of the light. My refuge isnt highly lit up (indirect 4 23w(100w eq) 2700k CFL's for my algae scrubber. And then go on from there. Maybe do this twice a year.


BUT first thing is first. Growing some Phytoplankton as a food source for when they are first developing.

There are 3 types of phyto I will be culturing. Nannochloropsis oculata, Isochrysis galbana, and Tetraselmis.

Nanno and Tetra are both green and grow in different sizes. Nano - 2-4 micron, Tetra - 9-14 micron. I was against doing Tetra because of the size, but i figured, the more food types, the better. Plus Tetra, according to Breeders (http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/aug2002/breeder.htm) contains antibiotic like compounds. So it couldnt hurt.

Iso G. Its a brown color and is hard to grow, as I'm finding out. First batch is a fail (i dont think that i kept the temp stable enough). It's size is ideal as i'm hoping that Iso G and Nanno are small enough for them to consume on day 2, though feeding is optional.

So with that said, until i get the Iso G growing, I will be holding off on buying any Large Clams for breeding. I'm ordering another couple batches tomorrow and should have plenty of Nanno and Tetra provided i can keep the colonies alive.

I could always buy dead plankton to feed, but whats the fun in that... BTW, i'll get some pics hopefully tomorrow on here. I have finals and junk coming up this week so time is precious right now.

If you have any questions or comments, feel free to post. Haters, please keep the board civil.
 
My research shows that zooxanthellae can be found in for lack of a better word "clam poop" not sure how long it's viable or how to extract it. Clam larvae in the wild may be able to extract enough zooxanthellae from the excerement of mature clams in the bed.

I'm tagging along and wish you the best in this ventrure.
 
I'll have to take a look into that later this week will46r. Finals for my Environmental class are this week and Java programming is next week i think.

But anyways, i have purchased the rest of my test kits (MAG and PO4) and my Extech RF20 Salinity Refractometer. I looked at the Hanna, but with as much as i love technology, i'd rather have something i can manually adjust and not worry about some eletrical failure.

Last time i checked my water quaity (roughly 6 days ago) it was at:
KH: 11.2
CAL: 420
PH: 8.2
AMONIA: 0
NO2: 0
NO3: looks like maybe 0-2
Salinity (hydrometer) 1.024

Will46r, I was wondering, with our clams being in a closed system (I'm not running a protein skimmer) if there would be enough free floating zoo in the water. Or if like you said, they get it from the poo. If you think about it. The ocean is vast with large currents, whisking away most if not all the zoo. Our systems are small and no where for it to go without water changes.
 
Here is a pic of my planlton farm. Just split it too.
<img src="http://WWW.aquatic-refuge.com/RandomPics/plankton.jpg" width="400">
 
raised my salinity to 1.25, got my refractometer in last night. Should get my other test kits by friday according to the tracking numbers. Having a hard time locating T ISO phytoplankton. FAF was out. Algae Depo wants 30 bucks for 250ml.... Might have to go with them. Ordered some 1 micron mesh netting to filter the phyto when its time to split. I also ordered some 27 micron filter to help separate some of the bigger particles (some kind of buildup) so that should help me keep just the phyto as much as possible. I'll keep you posted as more comes.
 
Waiting on an email from Algae Depot to see if their strain of Iso Galbana plankton is the Tahiti strain. If not, i think i'll just buy 16oz of Iso Galbana from aquacave since its the same volume and cheaper. Density, i'm not sure of. I'd prefer to get it from FAF, so i might wait a little bit longer.
 
Blu: Out of curiosity, have you read any literature from Gerald Heslinga, or Daniel Knop?
I think their research/ books would be quite useful for you on this project.
Much of there work is done at commercial locations, but, I think alot of their work has potential to incorporate into a closed system.
 
Blu: Out of curiosity, have you read any literature from Gerald Heslinga, or Daniel Knop?
I think their research/ books would be quite useful for you on this project.
Much of their work is done at commercial locations, but, I think alot of their work has potential to incorporate into a closed system.
 
Unfortunately no. I have read about everything out there I could find online. And unfortunately there isn't a whole lot out there. But I will look them up for further reading. Thanks.
 
Did a water test today since i added the new clams a week or so ago. I can tell they are in there, adding more chemicals every 3-4 days than i ever have been lol. Realy nice to know that its worth it though.

Salinity 1.25
PH 8.2 (working on getting that up to 8.4, 300g gonna take a little time)
NO2 - 0
NO3 - 0
Amonia- 0
KH - 12.6
Clac- 400 (.16)
temp - 80 (always is)
PO4 - no test kit yet
 
hey, bsod, what chemicals are you adding?
here's my analysis:
Salinity 1.25 HOPE YOU MEAN 1.025
PH 8.2 (working on getting that up to 8.4, 300g gonna take a little time) FINE AT 8.2 BUT WHICH BRAND KIT? I KNOW YOU SAID ON THE OTHER THREAD, BUT WHICH?
NO2 - 0
NO3 - 0
Amonia- 0
THOSE 3 ARE GREAT
KH - 12.6 WHICH BRAND IS ABLE TO GIVE YOU THAT MUCH ACCURACY??
Clac- 400 (.16) WHAT'S THE (.16)
temp - 80 (always is) THERE'S GREAT DEBATE OVER STEADY, ABSOLUTE STEADY, TEMP VS VARYING IT.
PO4 - no test kit yet A CRITICAL NEED
 
yes sorry 1.025 is what i meant.

I like it to be at 8.4, just brought it up yesterday from 8.0. using Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit.

thanks for the 3 greats :) , I owe it all to my algae scrubber

I use salifert test kits for calc and kh.

the calc 400 (.16) the .16 is the value ml's. .16 is 420 ppm actually, i read the paper wrong so that should be really good then.

80 degrees is steady from what i can tell. Every time i check it day or night, thats the temp its at. Well it may vary +-1 degree.

PO4 test kit is in the mail and should be here tomorrow along with the MAgnesium test kit.

The chemicals i use are B-IONIC calc and alk
 
Forgot to mention that i got my 1 micron and 27 micron mesh in the mail today so most likely tomorrow i'll build those as my plankton is getting pretty deep green again. i'll post pictures in a few.
 
Here is what it looks like 3 days after splitting.
<img src="http://www.aquatic-refuge.com/RandomPics/phytoweek2.jpg" width="600">

Nonno on the left and Tetra on the right (3 bottles)
 
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Blu: To add to Moliken-
1)As to PH, your test kit is a general reference. It's accuracy is limited. Keep in mind you need to always test the same time of day each time, as your PH will increase throughout your photoperiod with oxygen production, and decrease on the opposite cycle with the increase of carbon dioxide.
2)Your nitrates are at zero. Again, your test kit is limited, and nitrates are not totally zero, but low. Keep in mind that as you aquire multiple Tridacna sp. clams, they will appreciate some nitrogen, especially if your tank is to be dominated by them. I'm not going to push the issue yet, but, I will plant the seed in your head that regular ammonium nitrate additions can be beneficial IF, and only IF, the system is heavily stocked with Tridacna sp. clams.
3) Phosphate can inhibit calcification, and could be a major problem if high. Make sure and publish your results when your kit arrives..... and be prepared to add some (GFO) granular ferric oxide. :)
4)KH (dKH)/ Alkalinity- 12.6. Seems a bit high, which may be if you have relatively freshly mixed seawater, or are checking towards the end of your photoperiod. Keep an eye on this. Levels of 8-10dKH are more common.
Keep up the battle..... you are an ant attempting to climb a mountain! :)
 
+1 aphenes on your 1,2,3,4, but i'd add that the ant has a healthy gigas it's trying to lug up that mountain. any ph means more than that. those kits are notoriously unreliable
 
Yeah the crappy cards can't be a solid 100% test but I'm sure they are close enough. Inhabitants are ok within a range. But ill keep all that in mind if I feel that its a cause for something to go wrong.
 
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