Breeding Dwarf Octopuses?

B Pierce

New member
Hey all,

I would like to try my hands on breeding dwarf octopuses. I have heard that two octopuses can not be kept together...but then how do you breed them:p. Would I keep them seperated for most of the year and then during a certian time of the year put them together?

Also how do you ID a dwarf octopuse as being a type that lays larger eggs VS the ones with smaller eggs? How long does it take for the eggs to hatch after being laid?

What would be a good first for for the octopus...rotifers? BBS? Cyclop-eeze?

Any advice would be apprecieated,
Bill:)
 
Hi Bill,

I mean no disrespect by this, but I think you need to do a TON of study about cephalopods before even thinking about breeding them. Consider the following:

1. An octopus considers every animal in its vicinity to be either prey or a threat - this includes other octos. Except during breeding, if you have two octos in the same tank (unless it's an extremely large tank) the bigger one will eat the smaller.

2. An octo can tell when it's safe to try breeding but you can't! It could be that a highly trained expert could tell but I've never heard of it being done.

3. Telling the sex of an octo is a simple but not an easy task; a female has suckers all the way to the end of each arm while a male will have one arm on which the last 10% or so has no suckers. On the Giant Pacific Octopus (Enteroctopus dofleini) the 'special' arm is the third one to the right of center but I'm not sure if it's the same for other species. Speaking from some experience, you can only make this determination by physically holding the animal while examining each arm. That's a recipie for damaging the octo, getting yourself bitten, or both.

4. Assuming you can get past the above obstacles, here's what you have to look forward to:
4a. After breeding the male will stop eating and die.
4b. After breeding the female will move into the most hidden den she can find - to include blocking the entrance with rocks - to deposit and care for her eggs. BTW: If she can't find a suitable den she may not complete the breeding process.
4c. Once she has moved into this brood den she stops eating and doesn't come out until the eggs have hatched. If she lives long enough to see the eggs hatch she may come out into the open but she will be starved almost to death at that point and will only live a very short time at best.
4d. Depending on species, gestation time can be anywhere from 2 to 8 months - during that time you shouldn't do anything to disturb the animal since doing so would put the entire process at risk.
4e. During gestation the octo will not be eating but she will still be breathing and excreting waste (she's basically consuming her own flesh for this period). That means that you have to maintain oxygenation and water quality even though you don't get to observe the animal for which you are providing.
4f. If the mother lives long enough (many don't) to assist the eggs in hatching then the almost microscopic babys will, almost certainly, be destroyed by your pumping system. BTW: If she doesn't live long enough, most of the eggs will not hatch.

Some other thing to think about in keeping octos:
A. They are shy and secretive - That means that, if you want a happy octo, you've got to provide it with plenty of hiding places and accept that it will spend a high percentage of its time hiding.
B. They are predators - An octo's methods of hunting, capturing, subduing, killing, eating, and digesting are all predicated on the prey being alive when captured. Feeding an octo with dead food might work but the octo will not be as happy or healthy as it would be with live food.
C. They are intelligent and curious - If you don't provide it with challenges (professionals cal this "enrichment") most octos will get bored and start doing things that you don't want such as escaping or tearing up the rockwork. [A Google search on "enrichment" should bring up a number of hits referring to octo keeping.]

In conclusion, the Octopus is an absolutely incredible animal but that doesn't mean it's a good candidate for a home aquarium. Further, it seems fair to say that an octo is an incredibly BAD choice for a home aquarium if you haven't first done a lot of study about octos in general and the species you wish to keep specifically.

Cephishly yours,

TPG
 
Perhaps there is some agenda here that I'm missing. Is the point that octopus should not be kept by amature aquarists? Or is it that people should not try to breed them? Or is it that the life history of octopus is solitary, poor, nasty, brutish and short (can't remember is I got that quote right)?

Much of what was suggested is correct, but the fact is, it is not at all difficult to mate octopuses and it is not that hard to rear juveniles. It all comes down, as usual, to what species you are dealing with.

Sexing octopus is not always that hard, but you have to know the species and what you are looking for. In some species such as O. wolfi it is really easy, in others it takes practice. The fact is that if you look at the hectocotylus carefully, there will usually be morphological characters that are easily seen - although you may need a magnifying glass if you have eyes like mine.

Most octopus are opportunistic breeders and will mate whenever an adult male meets an adult female. A sexually mature male will often try to mate with any other octopus that even vaguely fits the bill - male, female, even a member of another species. You simply have to put them together and wait for an interaction, then remove the male after mating. Yes, females will occsaionally attack and eat males, but that is rare in most species. I've mated lots of pygmies and have only had it happen twice, both times in H. lunulata and only after the male had successfully passed several spermatophores.

Yes, males of all species will die, but how that relates to sexual activity is largely unknown. They certainly do not drop dead after mating once with a female. We can often use a male as a stud for weeks.

Brooding females are secretive, but most survive until after the eggs hatch and the paralarvae leave. That's octopus life. Apparently some people find this tragic, other noble, and others "that's the way selection shaped it". There are lots of animals that reproduce just once including some mammals. That just happens to be what has worked for this species..

Yes, small egg species produce paralarvae that are almost impossible to rear in a home aquarium, but big-egg species produce "crawl away" larvae that begin feeding immediately on small prey such as amphipods and they are relatively easy to rear. You have to know what you are doing, but it is not rocket science There is plenty of information available on this and other websites that can guide you.

If you know the basics of keeping a healthy aquarium and have been able to hold an octpus for at least a few months, there is no reason you should not move on to the next step of trying to breed them

Roy
 
Here are some pictures of some octi's about an hour old.
They wrestled brine shrimp and squirted ink at them. I did not raise them to maturity and I don't remember what type they were. It was many years ago.
Paul


13094octopus.jpg
 
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