Bring on the CONE
- Thread starter 8mpg
- Start date
dahenley
New member
what you need to do is make a template from mdf "medite" it's easy to cut and sand to perfection... once you have that you can double sticky tape it to your acrylic and route it off nice and clean everytime...no need for a cnc.. i do all mine by hand....:beer:
My thoughts exactly.
8mpg
New member
what you need to do is make a template from mdf "medite" it's easy to cut and sand to perfection... once you have that you can double sticky tape it to your acrylic and route it off nice and clean everytime...
The CNC is for fun... Its something that has always fascinated me since high school. Its also a fun project (expensive) but something to build yourself and have a sense of accomplishment. Im not talking about buying a $8000 cnc router. Im talking $1500-2000 and physically buying parts from different sources and building it. I know a couple people who have had their own CNC mill/router and they love playing with them.
Oh, and Troy... I just used taht wood becasue its what I had laying around. It worked well enough. I didnt want to buy a whole sheet of MDF for a few templates. I did have some 3/4" MDF, but no bits long enough to cut it. The biggest problem, honestly, was my jigsaw cut in the wood. It wasnt smooth enough and had a dip or two in it.
While the project wont be perfect...Im happy with it so far.
8mpg
New member
Well...got a lot done today. I only have pics of the coolest part...the lock
So a board member here helped me out big time. DIY Reef Guy hooked me up with some custom CNC parts. Im VERY thankful he helped me out. This was so much better than trying to do it with a regular router and wood jigs. Heck, just making the jig would have been really tough.
Here are a ton of pics. If you guys need some parts, send him a PM. He is more than capable to do most jobs. I believe the CNC maxes out at 27" x 46" or so.. He was a great help and taught me a lot...I learned enough today to load some Gcode and get the CNC to make the cut.
Here are the pics:
All 4 pieces that makes the lock. Notice the bottom layer has a 3.5" diameter 1/8" wide and 3/32"deep groove for an o-ring:
Middle layer..this allows for a stop to only allow the key to turn 15-20*. It also has some little ramps that allows a little play and locks it nice and centered.
The middle layer with the cup key:
Assembled:
So a board member here helped me out big time. DIY Reef Guy hooked me up with some custom CNC parts. Im VERY thankful he helped me out. This was so much better than trying to do it with a regular router and wood jigs. Heck, just making the jig would have been really tough.
Here are a ton of pics. If you guys need some parts, send him a PM. He is more than capable to do most jobs. I believe the CNC maxes out at 27" x 46" or so.. He was a great help and taught me a lot...I learned enough today to load some Gcode and get the CNC to make the cut.
Here are the pics:
All 4 pieces that makes the lock. Notice the bottom layer has a 3.5" diameter 1/8" wide and 3/32"deep groove for an o-ring:
Middle layer..this allows for a stop to only allow the key to turn 15-20*. It also has some little ramps that allows a little play and locks it nice and centered.
The middle layer with the cup key:
Assembled:
A Reef Scene
New member
That's very cool,
DIY Reef Guy
New member
Glad I could help Tim. Get me a drawing of what the cone looks like when it is still in flat stock and lets get it perfect. Looks like you are more than capable of bending it very nicely.
8mpg
New member
More pics of the skimmer. While its far from perfect, Im very happy how it came out. I still have some odds and ends (nylon bolts, exit plumbing, etc..) its basically together. Here are some pics.
So, some afterthoughts.
1. I wouldnt do this again without a table saw or DIY Reef Guy CNC cutting most of the parts.
2. I would have tried harder sourcing some 5.5" and 6" acrylic tube. I just hate to order 5' of each, skyrocketing the costs for 6-8" of both.
3. Without the proper tools, weldon 16 would be a much better idea than weldon 3. I will be siliconing most of the joints to ensure no leaking. Thank God it will be in the sump.
4. Baking acrylic shouldnt be rushed. 300*F for 5minutes PER 1/4"
5. Weldon 3 will stick to posterboard. Masking tape doesnt really stick but if weldon leaks through it will make it a bit ugly
6. Dont expect a perfect skimmer on the first try (especially on a first acrylic project period)
7. If you want perfect seams... order it
8. BulkReefSupply has faster USPS shipping than UPS to Texas and its cheaper (great place for uniseals)
9. Use MDF as template, not random pieces of plywood.
I will have some said and done pictures later this week or next. Im ordering nylon bolts because I needed allen headed bolts to fit on the cone bottom ring. I also need an oring (McMaster Carr probably) as well as do a mesh mod on the sedra 5000. This thing took way longer than expected. I might redo the whole thing again because I now have someone who can cut the pieces a lot better than I can, already have the parts and just need more acrylic. Also might order tube for the next one.
So, some afterthoughts.
1. I wouldnt do this again without a table saw or DIY Reef Guy CNC cutting most of the parts.
2. I would have tried harder sourcing some 5.5" and 6" acrylic tube. I just hate to order 5' of each, skyrocketing the costs for 6-8" of both.
3. Without the proper tools, weldon 16 would be a much better idea than weldon 3. I will be siliconing most of the joints to ensure no leaking. Thank God it will be in the sump.
4. Baking acrylic shouldnt be rushed. 300*F for 5minutes PER 1/4"
5. Weldon 3 will stick to posterboard. Masking tape doesnt really stick but if weldon leaks through it will make it a bit ugly
6. Dont expect a perfect skimmer on the first try (especially on a first acrylic project period)
7. If you want perfect seams... order it
8. BulkReefSupply has faster USPS shipping than UPS to Texas and its cheaper (great place for uniseals)
9. Use MDF as template, not random pieces of plywood.
I will have some said and done pictures later this week or next. Im ordering nylon bolts because I needed allen headed bolts to fit on the cone bottom ring. I also need an oring (McMaster Carr probably) as well as do a mesh mod on the sedra 5000. This thing took way longer than expected. I might redo the whole thing again because I now have someone who can cut the pieces a lot better than I can, already have the parts and just need more acrylic. Also might order tube for the next one.
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
Great job on the build! Reminds me a lot of the Octopus cone skimmer:
A Reef Scene
New member
Will that seal for the pump be water tight?
8mpg
New member
Uniseals are supposed to be water tight. I have never used one but have seen many build threads where they have been used and I havent seen a problem. To be honest though, this build might not be. I put a piece of 3/4" PVC in it and its a bit loose. I believe its the hole saw...its an old one. It had a hair of wobble in it.
Im going to assemble this one for now and run it. If it performs well, I will be building another one (DIY Reef Guy might be building one as well) but with much better tolerances, and it will all be cnc cut. For now, I think Im going to go ahead and glue the bubble plate fixture to the base.
Im going to assemble this one for now and run it. If it performs well, I will be building another one (DIY Reef Guy might be building one as well) but with much better tolerances, and it will all be cnc cut. For now, I think Im going to go ahead and glue the bubble plate fixture to the base.
dahenley
New member
i wouldnt glue it..... you might glue a nut to the base and use a nylon thumb screw to hold it together. that way you can get in there and clean out the sludge that collects.. plus you might want to play with bubble plate designs.
just my opinion... (it would suck to have to try and get something out of there and with it all glued, not be able to)
just my opinion... (it would suck to have to try and get something out of there and with it all glued, not be able to)
troylee
In Memoriam
drill and tap the bottom and the same with the bubble plate... then just run a nylon rod threw it to hold them together, this will allow for for it to come apart and clean up....
don't use silicone either get some 16 or craftics to seal it all up.....the uniseals should work great i use to use them all the time but i became more advanced and make custom unions these days lol....also sourcing tube is easy on ebay you can always find reminats for realitivily cheap.... i must say you got it down now it's just all about practice and perfecting.....another thing to consider is even if you use a cnc router to cut the cones they will never be perfect everytime because when the acrylic is heated and rolled then cooled it will always expand and contract ...... you will find that once you have a mold you will have to make a good 10 or 20 cones before they start coming out flawless because each one you will have to adjust the template used to route the cones untill you get it very close......for example you could take 2 cones routed identical on the flat and form them and one will be on the money or short and the other could come up to long..... it's a pain staking process....
don't use silicone either get some 16 or craftics to seal it all up.....the uniseals should work great i use to use them all the time but i became more advanced and make custom unions these days lol....also sourcing tube is easy on ebay you can always find reminats for realitivily cheap....
i must say you got it down now it's just all about practice and perfecting.....another thing to consider is even if you use a cnc router to cut the cones they will never be perfect everytime because when the acrylic is heated and rolled then cooled it will always expand and contract ...... you will find that once you have a mold you will have to make a good 10 or 20 cones before they start coming out flawless because each one you will have to adjust the template used to route the cones untill you get it very close......for example you could take 2 cones routed identical on the flat and form them and one will be on the money or short and the other could come up to long..... it's a pain staking process....
dahenley
New member
just change the plumbing and your done.
http://www.aquacave.com/reef-octopus-dnwb-110-br-recirculating-protein-br-skimmer-983.html
or
build a square base and do this
http://www.saltysupply.com/Super-Reef-Octopus-XP-5000-External-Cone-Protein-S-p/oc8117.htm
8mpg
New member
Well, a bit of an update...its up and running...ish
I got in a rush and just put it together...this is the prototype and will be remade. I did silicone the bubbleplate to the base for now just to get it running. I cant find the darn venturi for the sedra that comes from sedra. Its here somewhere in the house but I cant find it for the life of me. So I ghetto rigged it to make it work.
Preface to the video...
1. I just slapped a 1/4" ID barb union into the stock 1" barb intake that comes with the pump. No silicone, its not a great seal.
2. This is a stock impeller. NOT A NEEDLEWHEEL. To my surprise when I got it, it was a regular one. I ordered the pump from www.fishsupply.com and it shows the needlewheel in the pic. I will be calling them. If they dont want to help, no worries, I will build my own prop end with mesh/zipties
3. There are leaks
4. Its freaking loud..the airline is gurgling and loud. Im going to research on making my own volute, I have seen many threads on it when mesh modding.
5.Looks better in 720p...shot with Iphone 4
Here is a video:
<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/WGv8ZNggceY?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/WGv8ZNggceY?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>
I got in a rush and just put it together...this is the prototype and will be remade. I did silicone the bubbleplate to the base for now just to get it running. I cant find the darn venturi for the sedra that comes from sedra. Its here somewhere in the house but I cant find it for the life of me. So I ghetto rigged it to make it work.
Preface to the video...
1. I just slapped a 1/4" ID barb union into the stock 1" barb intake that comes with the pump. No silicone, its not a great seal.
2. This is a stock impeller. NOT A NEEDLEWHEEL. To my surprise when I got it, it was a regular one. I ordered the pump from www.fishsupply.com and it shows the needlewheel in the pic. I will be calling them. If they dont want to help, no worries, I will build my own prop end with mesh/zipties
3. There are leaks
4. Its freaking loud..the airline is gurgling and loud. Im going to research on making my own volute, I have seen many threads on it when mesh modding.
5.Looks better in 720p...shot with Iphone 4
Here is a video:
<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/WGv8ZNggceY?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/WGv8ZNggceY?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>
8mpg
New member
Just a quick add on... made a make shift silencer with a pill bottle and cotton balls. MUCH BETTER. My tank really needed a big skimmer... its a 55gal bare bottom that was running an AquaC Urchin skimmer, just wasnt pulling its weight in the new setup.
Looks like its trying to skim!!! Mesh mod will probably be done Thursday. I have an 18 hour day at work tomorrow
Here is the 15 minute update video
Well, after it gets done processing
<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/HBgulW0cZho?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/HBgulW0cZho?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>
Looks like its trying to skim!!! Mesh mod will probably be done Thursday. I have an 18 hour day at work tomorrow
Here is the 15 minute update video
Well, after it gets done processing<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/HBgulW0cZho?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/HBgulW0cZho?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>
Last edited:
Everyones Hero
New member
Very cool. For what it cost to make one I'm considering selling my octo 150 & making my own.
troylee
In Memoriam
yup..... i prefer in sump thou they just perform better and use less electricity...
here is one i made that is recirc.....
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