Build thread of the Monterey Marinland 265 84x24x30

[Biggar]

Thanks Matt, I thought about removing the 2 inch ball valve all together. there really is no reason to have it. water should never be restricted to the pump and little water will be needed to drain if i need to disconnect pump. reason why i just left it was because my rear plumbing would hit the piece of wood with out it atteched. maybe ill change it. still got time

 

[jets17]

with the ball valve between the sump and the pump - wouldn't it allow you to change the pump without having to empty the sump? looks like a big sump.

Thanks Matt, I thought about removing the 2 inch ball valve all together. there really is no reason to have it. water should never be restricted to the pump and little water will be needed to drain if i need to disconnect pump. reason why i just left it was because my rear plumbing would hit the piece of wood with out it atteched. maybe ill change it. still got time

 

[Biggar]

with the ball valve between the sump and the pump - wouldn't it allow you to change the pump without having to empty the sump? looks like a big sump.

only would need to drain water after last baffle, unless it was not sealed properly. maybe 10 gallons.

 

[aldiver311]

I have the same tank, this is what I did, I use a Reeflo Barracuda pump that is plumbed into a manifold and I have 4 returns up the back and lock line Ys into the tank. I copied the drians from the Megaflo kit and use all 4 holes in the overflows as drains. The Barracuda runs wide open lots of flow. Getting about 12 times circulation in the tank. . I love it so do the fish. Just an idea to get the most amount flow out of your pump. You do have to notch out the top of the conerflow strainer. otherwise you won't be able to get enough water into the overflows. Thats the only down side because any smaller fish will get into the overlow box.

 

[Biggar]

I have the same tank, this is what I did, I use a Reeflo Barracuda pump that is plumbed into a manifold and I have 4 returns up the back and lock line Ys into the tank. I copied the drians from the Megaflo kit and use all 4 holes in the overflows as drains. The Barracuda runs wide open lots of flow. Getting about 12 times circulation in the tank. . I love it so do the fish. Just an idea to get the most amount flow out of your pump. You do have to notch out the top of the conerflow strainer. otherwise you won't be able to get enough water into the overflows. Thats the only down side because any smaller fish will get into the overlow box.

Nice, would love to see pics of your setup. Hard to find the 265's.

Good idea with the manifold and extra drains. I hope I dont run into problem with drains not allowing enough water out.

Here is my logic. The dart gold is supposed to run 3010 GPH at 6 feet of pressure. Im guessing ill get 2800 GPH to low ball it. I did want some pressure because im going to tee off and run my reactor and UV sterilizer with the same pump. If I had no resistance at all, I dont think the tee will work. Im thinking ill run about 300 GPH through UV and reactor combined.

That would still be close to 10x turn over with 2500 GPH. If the two one inch drains dont support it, ill be :blown:

 

[Biggar]

You do have to notch out the top of the conerflow strainer. otherwise you won't be able to get enough water into the overflows. Thats the only down side because any smaller fish will get into the overlow box.[/QUOTE]

Use some 1/4" net from BRS and superglue it over those holes.

 

[WhoDey64]

The big item in the center of your cart, is that a spring loaded check valve?

 

[MHG]

I would also put a union between the bulk head in the sump and the ball valve. You will have no way to tighten or replace that bulk head if it leaks without taking the ball valve with it...

The lowes valves are much better but not perfect...

 

[Biggar]

The big item in the center of your cart, is that a spring loaded check valve?

Yes, decided against that

 

[Biggar]

I would also put a union between the bulk head in the sump and the ball valve. You will have no way to tighten or replace that bulk head if it leaks without taking the ball valve with it...

The lowes valves are much better but not perfect...

Thanks, changing to true union valve soon.

 

[aldiver311]

PM me your phone number and ill send pics of my plumbing to your phone or send me your email address. . I cant figure out how to post pics on here anymore. its a big pain in the butt. It always tells me my files are too big.

 

[aldiver311]

oh ya good idea with the netting I have a bunch from my collecting nets that I make.

 

[Crawfish00]

The big item in the center of your cart, is that a spring loaded check valve?

Good point..it'll work for a week before the spring rusts out.. It's nice to see all the help and ideas on this build..

 

[AquamanE]

If you have a choice be careful with all those home depot ball valves they tend to stick and break from time to time....lowes ...even though I hate lowes has true union ball valves for almost the same price......and I would change the ball valve you have coming out of your sump into a true union ball valve like you have coming out of the pump, you will save some room on that end under your tank and its a much better choice for a valve system then a union and that HD ball valve..

Matt- Do you have pics of the different valves between Lowes and HD. I need to change some valves soon and want to get the correct ones. :worried2:

Thanks

 

[fragyoureef]

Matt- Do you have pics of the different valves between Lowes and HD. I need to change some valves soon and want to get the correct ones. :worried2:

Thanks

I think its call universal ball where the actual valve comes out when you clean it.
not 100% on the name

 

[WhoDey64]

Good point..it'll work for a week before the spring rusts out.. It's nice to see all the help and ideas on this build..

That's why I love the FMAS board and have no trouble paying the dues even though I can't make the meetings and most functions. Everyone here helps where they can.

 

[WhoDey64]

Matt- Do you have pics of the different valves between Lowes and HD. I need to change some valves soon and want to get the correct ones. :worried2:

Thanks

Not the best pictures but here are the True Unions from Lowes, they run about 7 or 8 bucks each and are very smooth compared to the HD standard ones. The pics are from my current rebuild of the 57 after the move, finally finished the gluing last night....

 

[Biggar]

Best plumbing according to many reefers on RC

Best plumbing according to many reefers on RC

From doing some research, SAVCO is supposed to be the best quality piping
www.savko.com. Not too overpriced also

I may need to rethink plumbing. Apparently a 1" bulkhead cant drain as much as I may need.

Why would someone make a huge aquarium to accommodate 1" bulkheads?

 

[Biggar]

Change of plumbing plans

Change of plumbing plans

After talking with couple members and reeflo I decided against my plumbing idea.
Thanks for your advice guys.

I called reeflo and told them about my set up and they basically said I would have too much vertical lift (with 3 pipes) and 3/4 piping made it worse. Reeflo used their head calculation and figured out the GPH would be about 1200. Not what I wanted to hear. 4300 GPH to 1200 on the reeflo dart gold. No way. 3 small lines running vertically is apparantly much harder for the pump than one larger pipe. For me, I figured it was the same water weight, so whats the difference.

It was recommended that one large pipe be ran vertically as high as possible, than branch it.

I ordered savco plumbing parts and re sketched a rough draft.

Added a manifold to squirt water at stuff too :twitch:

Curious if anyone else has done plumbing like this?

Chart shows huge drop in GPH

My new thoughts

Another members setup that is super clean

Going to start placing baffles soon, already got them cut

 

[Biggar]

The Sump

The Sump

Finished the sump today. Used marineland silicone. Barely had a drop left after I finished.
Added a media storage and skimmer stand.
Glass came tinted which I though was sweet.