Build thread of the Monterey Marinland 265 84x24x30

That is an interesting looking valve you have for the skimmer output, is that something that came with the skimmer or did you adapted that valve, if so, were did you purchase it?

The valve itself(the grey parts) come with most Reef octopus skimmers.

The problem is that in China they use the metric system on their plumbing fittings. So, what I found is that the T or couplings will fit perfectly into the outlet of the valve at 1 1/4".

The white portion I added eliminates the splashing water coming out. Only needed to buy a T and Cap(which I drilled a hole in the top) and small piece of 1 1/4 pipe
 
Have you check on the level of the water in the skimmer chamber, some skimmers produce micro bubbles if they are of the end of ranges, playing with the height up or down sometimes help.
 
Problem finally reveals itself

Problem finally reveals itself

The pump finally shows me a sign.

Thats why I got air bubbles!

Leak from brand new pump. :mad2:

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Called Reeflo, they are going to send a seal kit for free. Pain in the Arss
 
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One week update

One week update

Everything still alive, sm diatom outbreak on sand at the moment.

Water Parameters in check. No ammonia or phosphates of concern
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Bought a clean clean up crew:
2 tiger conch
1 queen conch
1 Spider Conch
1 Bullet Goby

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Foxface found new rest area, loves that spot. "Showcase fox" waiting for the camera shots

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More LEDS on the way

More LEDS on the way

Adding another strip of LEDS to system. I currently have 80, 3 watt Cree LEDs.
56 Royal Blue and 24 Cool whites.

Im adding another:
12 Neutral Whites on 1070 mA driver
12 Blues and 2 royal blues on 700 mA driver
All will have 60 degree optics
Going to thermal pads instead of screws this time
The kit is from Rapidled.com.
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Total LED wattage will be approximately 320-350.
My goal was to make the most efficient system possible.
AI compares their 75 watt LED unit to a 270 watt MH
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That means I should have 1200 watts of MH power. Interesting:spin1::spin1:

New set up will have:
58 Royal Blue
12 Blue(brings out greens more)
24 Cool white
12 Neutral White(These will bring out reds and yellows more that the tank is lacking in my opinion)
 
Week Two

Week Two

Week two just passed.

Tank never needed to cycle. My best guess is due to using all the prior live rock and sand.

Only had small diatom outbreak on sand for about 3-4 days, now white again.:beer::beer:

Small polyps calling my name
 
New Additions

New Additions

Added more flow to tank.

Cant justify spending 800.00+ on vortechs yet. Found some Mag 7's for good deal.

Got two Hydor Mag 7's pushing 2800 GPH(12 watts) and 2 Hydor evolutions pushing 1400(6 watts). HUGE diffrence

8400 GPH for hydors and about 2400GPH from the Dart Gold.

11,000 GPH should be good. Its about 37 times turnover per hour.

I directed the some of the returns behind the rocks now.

Sorry my iphone pic is so horrible

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New Additions

New Additions

Installed another LED strip with 2 different colors. Regular Blue and Neutral White.

I did it a bit differently this time, no glue or screws :p Big time saver.

These are the kits you get from rapid LED
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Used thermal pads. Saved me the time to drill all the holes and screw them down. Also, when you use screws, you have to be very careful not to touch the small contacts on the LED with the screw head or you will blew several lights. Been there, done that. I screw the screws in on angle if I use them now.

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Be sure to pre-tin the contacts 1st and soder them while not on the heat absorbing material.
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Used the 2 part epoxy to hold down the optics.
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I hope I dont have to take this canopy off much anymore.
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The regular blue looks really cool when on alone. Reef tank wife factor increased immediately ;)
 
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And the thread lives on ( :

And the thread lives on ( :

Finally got around to putting a new seal into the reeflo dart gold

Reeflo service was great..they sent out a seal immediately and I got in the mail about 3 days.

I was reluctant to fixing it until I needed to do a water change.

Here is what I found:
It was easy to replace. I found cleaning off the salt creep the hardest part about it.

Before
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The seal rusted out quick! Was getting worse by the moment
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Ah.....New seal
I only gripe with the whole thing was that I need to use silicone sealant and its takes 48 hours to completely cure. I dont have that much time to wait around.
I going to give it about 7 hours
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I still have not turned pump back on. I will tonight.

So tired of microbubbles:mad2:
 
My new ghetto ATO

My new ghetto ATO

Thanks Dave for the Container!

Im putting it to use now:beer:

I just fill it with kalkwasser from BRS. Sits in the spare room.

Aqua lifter pushes water through wall into the sump. Works!

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You've finally broke down and fixed the pump!!!!! Yay!!!! I'm thinking of building my own 100w led pendant to hit the bottom of the new tank you got any imput????
 
You've finally broke down and fixed the pump!!!!! Yay!!!! I'm thinking of building my own 100w led pendant to hit the bottom of the new tank you got any imput????
Yea, finally broke down and did the seal. ( : Verdict coming soon

I thought you had radion LEDs.

I dont know much about 100w ones, smaller ones can give you more options with color.
 
I have the radions but wanna do a center pendant 100w for the depth the radions are not gonna do much at 42"....lol my chalices would prob be happy.. I'm only gonna run the pendant for 3-4 hrs out of the day.. I figured u were the led guru
 
I have the radions but wanna do a center pendant 100w for the depth the radions are not gonna do much at 42"....lol my chalices would prob be happy.. I'm only gonna run the pendant for 3-4 hrs out of the day.. I figured u were the led guru

If you change the optics on the radions to 40 degrees, you would get much more par at those depths. Might cause some spotlighting though. I wonder if the optics are interchangeable on those. Might be an option.

Better yet, cut a hole in your roof right over the tank and then you would get plenty of light! :spin2:
 
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