CADlights 39g Pro build thread

Art:

I want to thank you for a great and detailed thread on setting up the CAD 39g Pro! Since documentation from CADLights is nonexistent, this is a lifesaver!

I've had mine for a couple months and am just now starting to set it up - I've never done a reef ready tank with overflow, so have a couple basic questions.

1. How tall should each of these pipes be in the overflow - how near the top? The Durso I have, the top of the cap with hole is 5" from the top edge of the overflow, while the top of the "T" on the return would be almost 12". From your photos, it looks like yours are much closer to the top. Anyone have correct length of each? My main return PVC (long) is a little over 4.5" and the durso PVC (long) is 10".

2. How snug should the PVC for Durso and return fit into the tops of the bulkheads inside overflow? I expected a fairly snug fit, like when you hand fit PVC pipe into connectors. But each is fairly loose, with Durso very loose. I'm afraid that water would leak around that fitting. Had planned to just pressure fit PVC into the bulkheads, but maybe not. Is this something to worry about? I think you recommended gluing the return.

Thanks again for any help and please post some updated pictures of your tank.
 
1. How tall should each of these pipes be in the overflow - how near the top? The Durso I have, the top of the cap with hole is 5" from the top edge of the overflow, while the top of the "T" on the return would be almost 12". From your photos, it looks like yours are much closer to the top. Anyone have correct length of each? My main return PVC (long) is a little over 4.5" and the durso PVC (long) is 10".

2. How snug should the PVC for Durso and return fit into the tops of the bulkheads inside overflow? I expected a fairly snug fit, like when you hand fit PVC pipe into connectors. But each is fairly loose, with Durso very loose. I'm afraid that water would leak around that fitting. Had planned to just pressure fit PVC into the bulkheads, but maybe not. Is this something to worry about? I think you recommended gluing the return.

Thanks again for any help and please post some updated pictures of your tank. [/B]

The top of my Durso cap is 2.5" below the top of the overflow and the top of my "T" is 5" below. Your measurements are way off, and I never heard of a 'shorty' Durso. I wonder if you got the plumbing kit from the wrong model... I'd take pictures of the two assemblies laid out next to a ruler and send it to CADlights for a check - before you glue anything. And provide the pipe sizes printed on the fittings (and the bulkheads, if any) - it might be hard for Eddie to tell if the diameter is wrong from the picture.

I posted pictures of the parts way back in this thread - that would probably show you enough to tell you if you have the wrong parts. There's no getting at my Durso for detailed measurements now - it's in the tank, facing the wall, and mostly buried in the overflow DSB.

Yes, there should be a friction fit with bulkheads, but any leaks would go just let a little water back into the overflow.
 
Art:

Thanks for the answers. Your photos confirmed what I suspected. Your detailed thread and photos are a great resource!

I see how tight it is in overflow, so I know it's impossible to get all measurements, but your info helps a lot. The top of Durso should be at just below the overflow openings. Your return looks like it sits just under Durso "T".

Being too short makes sense now. When I received tank and measured everything out, I found I needed another 12" return tubing to make both return connections. Ocean Reflections/CADLights gave me a lot of grief over sending another tube (with replacements for broken and missing items)!

Like the instructions, the QA at CADLights seems to be lacking. Besides sending wrong instructions for stand, it was a hassle to get the missing parts (a few screws). I've posted this question at CAD Forums, so hope for answer next week.

I've found some of the other parts lacking in quality - already replaced a bulkhead. I'm planning to replace the no-name/no-info pump - what pump did you get? Thinking of a Mag-Drive 700. Recommendations?

Thanks again for the info.
 
Eddie only has the one cabinet diagram, for the baseline 39G Signature. The black and cherry cabinets are two different mods because of the different materials used, but the assembly for each is (somewhere) in this thread.

I suspect the reason we don't get a parts list with the tank is that Eddie doesn't use one himself. Which means things can get forgotten at the end of a long day of tank packing. I didn't have any issues with any of the parts as received - I don't think Eddie is going low-end on them. But every lot has some defects. I thought (and still think) that it's a good system overall, or else I would have posted a review instead of writing the instructions. And despite the occassional grumbling, there are advantages to dealing directly with the guy who makes the systems.

I'm using an old Mag 7 (+/- 2). Assuming you add power heads for in-tank flow, you don't need anything like the GPH of the provided pump, and the less space it takes up the more space you have for reactors, heaters, etc. Use something with enough prefilter to keep the snails out!
 
hey art , i'm reading some bad reviews on the phosban your wanting to put in the return.....any thougts or can you give a good review.....thanks.......
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13818121#post13818121 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TY65
hey art , i'm reading some bad reviews on the phosban your wanting to put in the return.....any thougts or can you give a good review.....thanks.......

I can't tell what your specific concern is from your question. Point me to the review and I'll take a shot. But granulated ferric oxide hydroxide (GFO, phosban) is widely used in the hobby to remove phosphate and thereby control algae. Which it has done in my tank.

There are a couple of different products out there that do or claim to do the same thing. And most have their supporters and detractors. That's the great thing about forums - you can find any answer you want :rolleyes:

When I want the real answer to a chemistry question, I go to the ReefCentral Chemistry forum. And when I get there, I go to Randy.

Randy on Phosphate
 
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Anyone making progress on their 39G Pro build? I'm still stuck on hold, waiting for my replacement parts. Eddie emailed over a week ago that they'd been shipped, but no luck yet.

I swore up and down when I decided on this purchase that I wouldn't mod the thing, but I've had far too much time to think.

My current crazy idea is to buy another matching stand/tank. The stands would be set up back to back in the center of the room. I'd then either install a separate custom sump in cabinet 2, plumbed into sump 1, or get really crazy and remove enough of the back panels of both stands to permit one 'squarish' custom sump. The intent of all this is to have the second tank as a display macroalgae/refugium. Strange thing is, I can't find the 38g Pro stand on the CAD web site any more.

The odds are I'll not get past the dreaming stage with this. I think the sig other would kill me if she saw any more obviously large purchases show up at the door. (I promised her it wouldn't be nearly as expensive as the 110g reef I ran a few years ago)

I clearly need to stop thinking about all this! :)

CC
 
You'd want the cherry stand if you are going to cut chunks out of the back. In the black stand the back piece is load-bearing.

Sounds cool, and cheaper than one of the round tanks.

Have the system delivered to a friend's house and unpack it there. The boxes always look bigger than the removed contents :D
 
Feedback from CADlights

Feedback from CADlights

I got a nice e-mail from Eddie at CADlights about the discussions in this thread and that he's looking at everybody's postings for ways to make the system even better in the future.

Hi, Art

Thank you and i appreciate the detailed information you have sent to us here. this will greatly benefit the future models we will be putting out.
we have taken all of the things you have mentioned below into consideration and put into the minds of our designers.


as always, let me know what i can do to help and if you have any questions.

Thank you
Eddie
 
Progress here at last! The parts I needed finally showed up, and I was up at 4:00am yesterday getting the stand put together. I'll be able to set up tank and stand this weekend for a leak test, as well as working out exactly what I want to do with the plumbing. Looking at the assembled stand made me realize that I'm going to be hard-pressed to find room for the in-line heater I'd planned on running in the return line.

I think there's pretty much general agreement on a few of the changes Eddie can make. Some that come to mind are:

- ditch the UV
- ditch the bioballs
- downsize the return pump
- improve quality control (lots of issues with missing/damaged parts... )
- change the fuge light

Dave P
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13872420#post13872420 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by California Crow

I think there's pretty much general agreement on a few of the changes Eddie can make. Some that come to mind are:

- ditch the UV
- ditch the bioballs
- downsize the return pump
- improve quality control (lots of issues with missing/damaged parts... )
- change the fuge light

Dave P

I summarized the ideas and reasons discussed in the thread so he didn't have to spend all day reading. These things were mentioned, as was the complete absence of complaints about the tank and the lights :)

I specifically recommended a parts list (for benefit of both buyer and packer), and pointed to another fuge light I'm using. Also a good valve on the skimmer. A number of the changes are just swaps, but some (like bubble management) might take require some R&D.

I think this thread did help CADlights get a 'community' sense of what should be tweaked.
 
Yep, 'tweaks' are pretty much what's needed. I'm really happy with the lights, tank, and stand.

Still tossing around possible mods, though. I've just sent an email to Oceanreeflections asking if a large CPR Aquafuge 2 will fit on the 39G tank. I really would like a bigger refugium area than the sump can provide.

CC
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13873101#post13873101 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by California Crow
Yep, 'tweaks' are pretty much what's needed. I'm really happy with the lights, tank, and stand.

Still tossing around possible mods, though. I've just sent an email to Oceanreeflections asking if a large CPR Aquafuge 2 will fit on the 39G tank. I really would like a bigger refugium area than the sump can provide.

CC

Remote DSB in a 5g bucket?

An overflow running to the 220g sump in the basement or to the bedroom on the other side of the wall? Hey, I could do the through-the-wall mod!

You could probably get somebody local to make a custom HOB sump for the 39. Acrylic isn't very expensive in this size/thickness.
 
I've had an exchange of several emails with Ken at Oceanreeflections. I've decided to go with his suggestion of a medium CPR Aquafuge 2; he said that another of his customers was using one on a CAD 39G tank. I was really impressed with his fast responses to my several questions and his willingness to help me out. Seems like a really good place to do business.

CC
 
FYI, if anyone's bitten by the MOD'ing bug for their 39G Pro...

I got email confirmation this aftenoon from the Euro-Reef folks that as part of the new line of nano-skimmers they're releasing at the end of the week, there's a model specifically designed for use with a CAD 39g Pro.

Details supposed to be up on their website by the weekend.

CC
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13872986#post13872986 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ArtC
I summarized the ideas and reasons discussed in the thread so he didn't have to spend all day reading. These things were mentioned, as was the complete absence of complaints about the tank and the lights :)

I specifically recommended a parts list (for benefit of both buyer and packer), and pointed to another fuge light I'm using. Also a good valve on the skimmer. A number of the changes are just swaps, but some (like bubble management) might take require some R&D.

I think this thread did help CADlights get a 'community' sense of what should be tweaked.

Just curious what the other fuge light you are using is Art.

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13909413#post13909413 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by California Crow
FYI, if anyone's bitten by the MOD'ing bug for their 39G Pro...

I got email confirmation this aftenoon from the Euro-Reef folks that as part of the new line of nano-skimmers they're releasing at the end of the week, there's a model specifically designed for use with a CAD 39g Pro.

Details supposed to be up on their website by the weekend.

CC

Man, what kind of connections do you have CC? This sounds promising...Keep us up to date on this one.
 
New fuge light

New fuge light

Perch-light 13W (7W and 9W also available)

73603PerchLight.jpg


available from ThatFishPlace

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/215657/product.web

Very well sealed, even the PC bulb is potted. No rusting parts.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13910184#post13910184 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lemec
Man, what kind of connections do you have CC? This sounds promising...Keep us up to date on this one.

No connections, other than Reef Central. :)

I'd been following along with a nano-skimmer thread in their vendor forum here, and saw a email address to use for questions about the new skimmers. I sent off a request for details this morning, and got this response

"We will start selling nano skimmers for the following tanks:
- JBJ 12 Gallon
- JBJ 24 gallon
- Aquapod 24 gallon
- Solana 34 gallon
- CAD Pro 39

We hope to finish the website and e-commerce part by this Friday so that you can look at
the skimmer descriptions and order the one that fits your need"

I'm really curious as to what they've come up with. I'll be checking their web site in anticipation.

CC
 
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