Calistyle's 120G Peninsula Build

Nice looking build man. That sump is awesome! Get a video up with how those jebaos get the water moving once this thing has water in it if you can.
 
you sir got some talent. that plumbing is clean. really like how you incorporate flex and pvc.

Thanks, however it didn't work out too well. The left side of the drain gets 80% of the flow and has a small leak. Flex stuff is nice, but I think only for minor bending, definitely not major bend right into PVC.

What are your plans for cooling down the tank?

Keeping the house at 78 is the plan. However, this stand being fully enclosed is going to need a vent and possibly fan(s).

Nice looking build man. That sump is awesome! Get a video up with how those jebaos get the water moving once this thing has water in it if you can.

Will do. Right now it's just the flow accelerator from the return and that thing moves. So much that it sucks air from the top and shoots bubbles every 15 minutes or so. Looking into it, there only rated for 500 gph, so I need to split it into 2.

cali style -Is that you on your avatar?

haha. I get this a lot. Classic movie it was an avatar of the dude or boondock saints.
 
Flow / Leak / Issue:

Does anyone has any tips on how to equal out the flow (pic below) into the filter socks? Left side gets WAY more flow, causing air bubbles.

For the leak, I plan on putting a union in the drain line, just barely shortening the line. This way at the Y split to the socks, the slight bend (flex pvp to Y) on the left side will be shifted to the right side. This way no leak on 80% flow side, and do my best to secure 20% side better that I do this go round.

PZiJO35.jpg
 
the Y is too close to the 90deg bend. the water rushing down is taking the path of least resistance. add as much straight pipe btw the 90 to the Y, and try using a T instead of a Y. regarding the leak, did you glue it? Hopefully you let the glue cure fully before bending the flex PVC. since you're gonna rework it anyway, let it completely dry and run a bead of glue around the leaking joint...it's a no pressure line so it should stop it.
 
the Y is too close to the 90deg bend. the water rushing down is taking the path of least resistance. add as much straight pipe btw the 90 to the Y, and try using a T instead of a Y. regarding the leak, did you glue it? Hopefully you let the glue cure fully before bending the flex PVC. since you're gonna rework it anyway, let it completely dry and run a bead of glue around the leaking joint...it's a no pressure line so it should stop it.

"Hopefully you let the glue cure fully before bending the flex PVC"

that's the problem, 100%.

"add as much straight pipe btw the 90 to the Y, and try using a T instead of a Y."

I mocked it up with more straight pipe, but it made the bend way to much for flex to get to bulk heads. I'll mock this next one up w/ a T, but was concerned with sound.

Thanks for the reply!
 
Cali. Just put a gat valve on each side of the y in the flex. Then you can fine tune your flow to each. Also, make sure you flex extends into the sock below water level. That will also help reduce air.

The one problem you will have is removal of the socks
If your sock holder has a slot in the front to slip the socks out that is better, but flexin the lines up and down to get the sock out is not ideal.
 
Cali. Just put a gat valve on each side of the y in the flex. Then you can fine tune your flow to each. Also, make sure you flex extends into the sock below water level. That will also help reduce air.

The one problem you will have is removal of the socks
If your sock holder has a slot in the front to slip the socks out that is better, but flexin the lines up and down to get the sock out is not ideal.

Great idea on gate valves. Whats another 40 bucks! hah

and I'm able to get the socks off even with 4-5 inches of flex in it.
 
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