Came to a bad realization

I really got to think about getting better cooling soon... I added 2 seio 1500's last summer and tank rose 2-3 degrees. I am moddint them to have stainless steel shafts so the will run free er and put them on alternating timers for waveish action....20 minute cycles........
 
haha I've never read this before. I was about to ask him why he was using 100C for the evaporation... because I don't know if thats the right assumption for how many gallons of water are at the boiling point of water.... theres a distrobution thing, oh well :)

saltwaterfishlover: My Seios1100's dont always turn back on so I wouldn't reccomend putting them on a wave maker or timer.
 
Got the Lasko fan today...fit under my stand very nicley and on low it has kept my tank at a steady 81.7 degrees for 6 hours now on low...should help alot during the summer. I currently add about 1.5 gallons of top off H20 daily and I'm sure this will go up a bit, my auto top off is keeping up with no probs...
 
I dont know if it has been mentioned yet I didnt see it but just to say it again if the MAG 18 is in your sump (submersed) get it out of there... my 24 gets pretty hot im assuming (as ... you ... me) the 18's are the same way.
 
Exactly. If you're considering a chiller but you are still running Magdrives (or another brand of water cooled/submersible pump) get a fan cooled pump!
I have my external fan cooled pumps set up so that their fans also blow on my sump which helps keep it cooled.
 
Re: bump

Re: bump

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7273918#post7273918 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gary Majchrzak
bunp for a classic URS thread now that warmer weather is approaching.
Anybody hear from Todd lately?
Click to expand...
:D
 
I upped the Little Giant to an Iwaki 100RLT.
I have a fan cooled GenX on my skimmer.
Both reliable pressure rated pumps.


It's fairly easy to find deals on used Iwaki and LG pumps.
If purchasing new, also consider the Blueline series of pumps.
 
Great thread, really illustrates the fact that there just is not a lot of thermal mass in ice for it to be an efficient source of chilling. The only thing I'd like to add is that in the original calculations for how much energy is required to heat the tank 10F over the lighting cycle, the actual amount is MUCH more. Dont forget folks that evaporation is occuring all along the timeframe of the lighting cycle and technically aiding in keeping the temps down. Remember, the heat put in must be in balance with both the rise in temperature AND evaporation over the lighting timeframe (forget whether thats the first or second law of thermodynamics :))... Just as a blind guess I'd say that you actually input twice the heat into the tank to raise it up from 78 to 88. Still doesn't changethe amount of heat required to cool it, but you'll just have to excuse the melancholy in me ;)

I do love the value of this thread, a great teaching tool :)
 
I purchased a small (about10 inch diameter) fan from Walmart that has a sturdy plastic clip as a mounting device. I simply clip it on the side of my sump tank blowing across the surface of the sump. Very effective in creating evaporative cooling and not a bad deal at about $9 for the fan. You do have to add significantly more top-off water but thats a small sacrifice for such a huge benefit. Even with 400 watt halides with the fan going my water temp never exceeds 82 degrees. Buy the way I also have 4" radio shack computer fans blowing in behind each halide lamp. I also have doors on the front of the canopy that I can leave slightly ajar to let more hot air escape.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7466397#post7466397 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SkiFletch
Dont forget folks that evaporation is occuring all along the timeframe of the lighting cycle and technically aiding in keeping the temps down.
Click to expand...

Also conductive heat loss dependent on the ambient air temp. This mostly relates to glass tanks but still quite a bit for Acrylic.

ie. if the air temp is 75F it takes more energy to raise the water temp from 82 to 83F than it does to raise it from 81 to 82. The reverse is true for cooling, the greated the difference between water & air temps the easier it is to cool.
 
im not from that "era" on here, but still ive seen alot change. but the some of the newer faces , im not so sure of lately around here haha
 
Quite the throwback thread there Gary... back when we could reasonably have meets in people's houses. What made you go looking for it?

Mark
 
Hi, Mark!

Hi, Mark!

puter said:
Quite the throwback thread there Gary... back when we could reasonably have meets in people's houses. What made you go looking for it?
Click to expand...
Todd's calculations and the witty responses contained within this thread itself :)

Andy's thread title is a classic!
 
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