Canopy fan suggestions..?

[cardiffgiant]

I think that our usage might be a bit different. I'm planning to use the fans to cool a t5 retro kit. I'm in Upstate NY, so there are few times that my tank is in danger of overheating (especially with AC). I need to continue to heat the tank throughout the majority of the summer.

I'll be interested to see if the ambient temp of the canopy should be exactly the same with the exhaust fans on and off, if I have 2 intakes and 2 exhaust fans.

My feeling is that it would be more work to go back and add the two fans if I feel like I need them, than to add them now and find that it makes only a small difference when they are turned on.

 

[sailsurfski]

I've got some heat and noise problems. Add to that a just discovered faulty thermometer that was reading ~80 when in fact the temp was 84.3. I keep the house at around 75 and the tank seems to want to stay at 84 even w/o the lights. I have the Hamilton protostar totally enclosed fixture that sits on top of an open canopy. It has 3 400watt double ended halides and two 165watt (6 footers) super actinics. The temp climbs pretty fast in the tank with just one of the halides on. It has two 4 7/8" (125mm) 110volt fans in a push pull config on either end. I am measuring the outside of the square fan housing. It could be that these are the 120mm size that are mentioned in a previous post. Anyway, these suckers are VERY loud. I like desertrats idea of making them both draw in, but my fixture has an outer wall and then uses the hammertone reflector on the whole ceiling.
Something makes me want to resist drilling a bunch of holes in this thing. What size, and how many would I even drill if I go that route. Are the 12 volt that much quieter, and do they move as much air as the 110 volt?

I just bought this complete setup and am a newbie and while I thought the temp was ~80, I was concerned with all this other stuff to deal with. My maroon clown disappeared 2 days ago and is presumed dead and that led to me rechecking everything. I have a 1/2 hp aqua logic chiller and it cools down really fast. Problem is, it must rely on the controller to turn it on and off as it doesn't have it's own themostat. I'm still trying to figure out the controller and all these x-10s and can't run everything through it yet because I throw the circuit breaker.

My auto top-off project is now on the backburner as i need to isolate the electrical oulet and put it on its own breaker.

What amp breaker should I use? Should I make it a gfci or just use a gfci outlet and save money.

I wonder if any of you has an idea why this tank wants to stay 8-9 degrees warmer than the house. I have a mag 18 driving the skimmer and an overkill 1/2hp external pump. The external pump is also very loud and very hot to the touch. It really heats up the cabinet. I think I will get another mag 18 to run the return system. I used the one for the skimmer and was happy with the flow and it was silent (submerged). It's hard to imagine it putting off as much heat even though it is in the water.

Also, any advice on the guage of wire I use to that outlet? I assume right now it is the standard 12 guage.

 

[AZDesertRat]

Sounds like the pumps are adding heat. Have you tried a clip on fan over the sump or down in the stand somewhere to move air around in there, I know my stand gets pretty hot and stuffy if I don't either prop the doors open slightly of run a small fan on low to circulate the air.

In my personal experience I found DC fans to be quieter than AC fans with the additional benefit of being able to easily and safely control fan speed with a $5 variable voltage power supply.

How high is the light fixture above the canopy? Can it be suspended from the ceiling or back wall on brackets to move the heat a little further away from the tank ? Just thinking out loud here. I know HQI or double ended bulbs need a shield over them but is there a way to cut three smaller pieces of glass so they only cover the HQIs and not the entire fixture? This would allow heat to escape.....

As for breakers, I ran a seperate 20A GFCI equipped dedicated circuit for most of my system and put the rest on an existing 15A GFCI circuit so the load is split between two breakers. I run some pumps on each so If I lose one I will still have some circulation, an example is the closed loop and one Koralia is on one circuit and the return pump and the other Koralia is on the other.

 

[gas4544]

I have a PFO MH + PC pendant that has a stock 4" fan. It is noisier than I like and has two wiring terminals. Would this fan be a good replacement for the current fan?


Thanx,

Gary

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13121835#post13121835 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by camlov2
would this be everything a person would need? (except screws)


http://www.buyextras.com/cafankit4vas.html

 

[AZDesertRat]

It probably has an AC powered fan in it now so you would need to disconnect it from the AC and run a seperate cord to a DC power suppy. I would do it myself as I have found DC fans to always be quieter than AC fans plus the added advantage of being able to control fan speed with the variable voltage DC power supply .

 

[camlov2]

I bought 2, they are nice. Each fan has a switch on the plug (oversized plug) where you can increase or decrease the speed of the fan. I would suggest adding the fan covers so you can't hit the fan blades with anything on accident.

 

[MrSpiffy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13402578#post13402578 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AZDesertRat
It probably has an AC powered fan in it now so you would need to disconnect it from the AC and run a seperate cord to a DC power suppy. I would do it myself as I have found DC fans to always be quieter than AC fans plus the added advantage of being able to control fan speed with the variable voltage DC power supply .

Actually, I had some very nice 110VAC 120mm fans that were whisper-quiet. Too bad I didn't have a use for them and tossed them, thinking I'd never use 'em.

 

[gas4544]

Thank you for the fast reply. Yeah, I figured that I would just run separate wiring as you described. I already have separate cords going to the pendant for the MH lamp and integrated PC ballast, so what's one more cord? The adjustable fan speed would be a nice bonus, too.

My current fan runs at 3100 RPM. It moves air and cools the pendant well, it just sounds like a mini wind tunnel.

Gary

 

[jadeguppy]

Good thread.

I currently plan to get two Vantec Stealth 120 x 120 x 25mm fans, one for each end of my 125g (6'). Although teh holes on the top make sense, mine was constructed with an open back instead.

Questions:
What is a wall wart?
Where can I buy a power supply for the fans without spending $20?
What power supply should I buy?
Examples are very appreciated!

 

[AZDesertRat]

Wal Mart has a variable voltage DC power supply for about $12 in their electronics dept. It wil power two fans easily. "Wall wart" is just a slang name for any DC power pack that plugs into the wall.
I like the variable voltage since you can control fan speed by lowering or raising the DC voltage with the turn of a knob or slidng a small switch.

 

[Vincerama2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13841040#post13841040 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AZDesertRat
Wal Mart has a variable voltage DC power supply for about $12 in their electronics dept. It wil power two fans easily. "Wall wart" is just a slang name for any DC power pack that plugs into the wall.
I like the variable voltage since you can control fan speed by lowering or raising the DC voltage with the turn of a knob or slidng a small switch.

This is interesting, how variable is the voltage? Is it set voltages? (1.5, 3, 6, 9, 12?)

I ask because I was considering buying an OEM peristaltic pump that you vary the speed with by varying the (DC) voltage.

Thanks!

V

 

[AZDesertRat]

I think its 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5, 9, 10.5 and 12V. I use the 9, 10.5 and 12 for my fans depending on the seasons. Some fans wil not start below 6 v.

 

[mfinn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13838280#post13838280 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jadeguppy
Good thread.

I currently plan to get two Vantec Stealth 120 x 120 x 25mm fans,

Decided against the 120mm SCYTHE SLIP STREAM SY1225SL12M ?

Just replaced one of my Vantec's that had a bearing going out, with the SCYTHE and there is a noticeable amount of more air flow.

 

[therealfatman]

Temperature controllers are available fairly cheaply through ebay. Just search the major industrial automation controller names: Omron, Omega or Watlow. Type and Type K probes are the cheapest to purchase. Definitely do not bid on a controller that requires the use of a type R probe. They cost used in excess of $100 each, closer to $200 each. I use the controllers for my canopies, and cabinets. Also for a chiller that very seldom runs, but with a platinum thermo couple. The controllers are Din or panel mount and are typically about 4" x$4" x 6" or smaller. All the above probes and thermo couple (except type R) are available through ebay for $10 or less. The tempearture controllers will run from $10 to $50 depending on your luck at the time of bidding. 24 Volt temperature control units are very cheap (cheaper than 90-120 volt AC), but require a better quality transformer than an outlet type. I use an old small computer power supply transformer to run a hand full of controllers.

I take davantage of the principals behind the physics of thermo dynamics, meaning I blow cold air into my canopies, not out.

 

[james3370]

i bought a "lot" auction on ebay for (10) 120mm pc fans that i had intended on using on some "borrowed" laptop power supplies from work.....i was gonna put (2) on each end blowing inward & then a few aimed at the water surface on a seperate power supply & on a channel on the reefkeeper2 as an "emergency cool" option

trouble was, even though they have a pretty good cfm rating, they also have a pretty high db rating (~90cfm - ~35db)....so (4) would move a nice amount of air, but they would also put out a considerable amount of noise :mad2:

i was relating this to a friend who builds pcs in his spare time & he told me he had a customer who had started a gaming rig build that backed out & gave him the fans he had bought for it to make up for my buddies trouble. he said they were too big for most all the stuff he did & he had no use for them, so he gave 'em to me for free

check out the specs on these puppies !!!!! 105cfm w/ only 19db of noise :eek1: yeah, they are 250mm (~9 7/8"), but i have designed my canopy to have about 11" of internal height. i plan on mounting the lights on the bottom of a slide-out drawer & the ballasts on the top of the drawer w/ the fans dead-center, so the fans will cool the lights & ballasts both. as mentioned before, i also plan on having some kind of slots/holes in the top for hot air to escape....
:bum:

so if anybody needs any 120mm fans, let me know....i can make ya a deal :lol:

 

[jadeguppy]

Thanks for catching that mfinn. Yes, I posted the wrong one. I am still planning to get the 120mm SCYTHE SLIP STREAM SY1225SL12M.

I'm wondering, do I really need the 120mm to cool two 250w mh or will two 80mm do the job?

James, that 250mm looks nice. I can't see you needing a chiller with those bad boys installed!

 

[mfinn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13844053#post13844053 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jadeguppy
Thanks for catching that mfinn. Yes, I posted the wrong one. I am still planning to get the 120mm SCYTHE SLIP STREAM SY1225SL12M.

I'm wondering, do I really need the 120mm to cool two 250w mh or will two 80mm do the job?

James, that 250mm looks nice. I can't see you needing a chiller with those bad boys installed!

Yeah, I'd get two fans for your setup.
I'd look for a wall wart power supply like AZDesertRat suggested, maybe online.

 

[jadeguppy]

I don't think I expalined my question very well. I will be getting two fans, but I'm wondering if the 120mm is worth the trouble to enlarge the holes or if 80mm fans will do the job. The canopy already has holes on each end for 80mm.

BTW, mfinn, I want to thank you for all the help you have offered me! I don't know what I'd do without it. Also, I gotta say I LOVE your avatar! I can't find zoa like that around here.

 

[AZDesertRat]

80 mm fans will almost always be louder than 120mm since they have to rotate faster to move the same amout of air. Thats why Vantec Stealths are so popular, they are low RPM and still move 53 CFM

 

[mfinn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13844474#post13844474 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jadeguppy
I don't think I expalined my question very well. I will be getting two fans, but I'm wondering if the 120mm is worth the trouble to enlarge the holes or if 80mm fans will do the job. The canopy already has holes on each end for 80mm.

BTW, mfinn, I want to thank you for all the help you have offered me! I don't know what I'd do without it. Also, I gotta say I LOVE your avatar! I can't find zoa like that around here.

Thanks.
The avatar is a rpe that got really dark.

I also think it would be worth it to enlarge the hole. My thought was if you had a 80mm fan with the same dBA rating, you would only get a fraction of the air movement you would from the 120mm fans you are looking at.

By the way, I started using the 120mm Vantec Stealth fans on a recommendation from AZDesertRat a while back.

However, recently on of the Vantecs I had in my hood started making some noise, (2-1/2 years of use)
I started looking to see waht people were using now and found the thread where the 120mm SCYTHE SLIP STREAM SY1225SL12M
were mentioned. Decided to give em a try.