Caribbean Biotope Seagrass Tank

[JLynn]

I'm reconsidering the refugium (again!). I really want to keep everything as simple as possible. Given the type of tank I have, I should be able to maintain a population of pods 'n stuff in the DT, if I make an effort to. The key is to provide in-tank refuge and food.

It MIGHT be possible to maintain a population of pods in the display, but I would not count on it. To maintain noticeable populations of copepods, they need a place to hide from predation. While benthic pods could hide in algae, copepods and the like are at the mercy of currents, and therefore cannot hide themselves from predators.

And especially considering the sponges and gorgonians filtering water... pods are probably much too big for most sponges, but the gorgonians would gobble them right up.

I just don't think it is wise to depend on the DT to provide all of those pods. I mean, consider that to feed a single mandarin goby, a mature, pod-producing, one hundred gallon tank is required. One hundred gallons of pod-producing DT just to feed one little goby! :eek1:

 

[Michael Hoaster]

"Sometimes you just gotta scrape everyday and enjoy what you have that isn't dead." - That is so true!

"It makes me feel better about myself that you're struggling like I am - sorry " - Everybody's happy when the middle-age white guy struggles"¦

Yes, I'm in a bright green Hell. But I know it will get better! I've just got to make adjustments. I'll figure it out. I added two more nassarius snails today, to help with food cleanup. Between adjusting food input and adding the right 'food processors', as well as continuing with exporting, I'm confident it'll turn around. It's not a disaster. The seagrasses are still growing.

Yes, I'm referring to the seagrasses multiplying, so as to fill the DSB. More plants equals more carrying capacity of nutrients, and less available to algae.

The wall is getting covered in several different algae. Some of it looks cool, billowing in the current. A few feather dusters have appeared and at least two of the barnacle blennies have taken residence in holes. They move around occasionally, apparently trying to get an edge on each other, so as to get the best spot for passing food.

 

[Michael Hoaster]

Good points, JLynn. I don't hope to keep enough pods to feed all the fish, etc. I just want enough to do their part in the food web, like helping out with detritus processing. I agree that benthic pods have a better chance evading predation.

I'm just trying to decide if a refugium's worth the extra complication, given that my tank is like a large refugium. If I can provide them with the right conditions, I think a small, sustainable pod-pulation is possible.

 

[Michael Hoaster]

Today I begin a 3 day lights-out, followed by manual algae removal and a water change. I'll also not feed during this time. This seems to be the best method for getting rid of cyanobacteria.

On saturday, when I resume lighting, I'll reset it to a shorter photoperiod. I had a rather long one before, and I think it contributed to the bloom.

After reading a bit, I think I may be experiencing 'new tank syndrome'. Yay! Though my tank cycled a while back, the ecosystem within still has a lot of maturing to do. And, as I've said before, I'm still missing some links in the food chain. I think I'm especially short on sand-dwelling fauna. So I'll be looking to rectify that, by getting some live sand and some spaghetti worms and other detrivores.

I wish now that I had waited on the blennies, and focused more on 'the little guys'…

 

[karimwassef]

Where do you get spaghetti worms?

 

[ichthyogeek]

Umm...IPSF has them, and if somebody's nice they'll sell'em on aquabid... and sometimes they come in live sand...

Mr. Hoaster, I'm curious, have you tried using the Seachem Flourish tabs or any other type of root tabs? I don't know of any big differences between saltwater and freshwater plants besides the whole salt deal, but if they've got any similarities, wouldn't they benefit from the root tabs since they draw nutrients in from the sand?

 

[Michael Hoaster]

Yes, Indo-Pacific Sea Farms and Inland Aquatics sells worms and other sand critters.

ichyogeek, I have not used the Flourish tabs, or other root tabs, mainly because they have multiple ingredients. Some are helpful, some not so much. I have used different root tabs in the freshwater planted version of this tank - I'm a one tank guy.

What I have used is glutamic acid in pill form (MSG!). It is an almost pure ammonia source that seagrasses prefer. I've pushed very few (3 total) very deep in my DSB. I think they've been helpful in getting the grasses established.

One thing I've learned, is that seagrasses need very little nutrients. That's how they outcompete micro and macroalgae in pristine waters. So rather than 'feeding' them it seems they prefer to be 'starved'. So, despite the fact that this salt water planted tank is very different from a reef tank, they are alike in their need for low nutrient water conditions.

 

[JLynn]

The chapter on nutrients in the seagrass book has a lot of good information on that. I still haven't finished it, though. I don't think I have even finished a full chapter... It is one heck of a dense read! It's like trying to read Shakespeare; if you miss even one line, you might be confused for the rest of the play.

The wall of algae sounds cool. My favorite thing about softy tanks and planted tanks is watching the corals and plants ripple and sway in the current. I find it quite hypnotic, even when it is just hair algae.

Hopefully, the blackout period will take care of the cyano and scraping it all out won't be too much of a headache. It would make sense that a longer photoperiod contributes to your algae problem. Maybe this will be your last algae bloom! One can only hope.

 

[Michael Hoaster]

Yeah, I've been reading it too. Not an easy read!

The tuxedo urchin has been on the wall for a few days - wow. He doesn't eat everything, but what he does eat - it's just gone.

I love having life that moves with the current! It is mesmerizing. Especially the seagrass.

I'm already seeing results with the blackout. Cyano and algae are receding. I don't think it's an end-all cure - more of a reset. It's an elegant solution though, and can be repeated if needed.

 

[Michael Hoaster]

Happy New Year! May we all have kick@$$ tanks and awesome photos to prove it!

For the final day of 'blackout', I've hung some towels over the viewing panels of the tank. The last of the cyanobacteria is still hanging on, near to and on the glass. This will hopefully take care of the rest of it. Tomorrow I'll do a big algae export/water change. This should get me back to where I want to be. Then the key will be to keep it there. Reducing the photoperiod and being stingy with the fish food should help.

I'm not sure what else to do, other than to just be patient. I'd like nothing better than to buy more fish, seagrass, live sand and sand critters, but post-christmas funds are a little low at the moment - which could be a good thing. Rather than spend my way out of new tank syndrome, I'll be forced to just 'think' - and of course, let Mother Nature do her thing.

While researching cyanobactria eradication methods, I was reminded of how new tanks swing back and forth, like a pendulum, in and out of trouble, until an equilibrium is reached (thank you, Eric Borneman). And for all our efforts, sometimes doing nothing is the best course.

And there's always another water change…

 

[karimwassef]

Have you added a GFO or phosphate reactor? ATS? Vinegar dosing? Lanthanum?

Is your problem phosphate or nitrate or both?

 

[Michael Hoaster]

I have added a bag of phosphate media. I've continued with vinegar dosing. I guess you could consider my fake wall an algae turf scrubber. I haven't tested, but my guess is that phosphate is the main culprit. I'm not terribly concerned with knowing specifically what's out of whack. My main concern is what I'm doing to cause it, which I believe is too much import and not enough export. And a too long photoperiod exacerbated the problem.

So, I correct what I can and the rest is giving the tank time to mature.

 

[karimwassef]

I meant that the remedies are different. Vinegar and DSB work on nitrates. ATS, Lanthanum and GFO work on phosphates.

 

[Michael Hoaster]

Finished the blackout on sunday. I decided to go another day longer-4 total. Did manual algae removal and a water change to finish. Very effective method. And, best of all, it's free! I also reset the photoperiod to a shorter time-span.

 

[karimwassef]

Free? Salt and water cost $$

 

[sam.basye]

Looking forward to see the results of a shorter photoperiod. Do you think light intensity/output plays a large factor in nuisance algae?

 

[Michael Hoaster]

I stand corrected.

 

[Michael Hoaster]

I too hope to see improvement with the shorter light duration. But it's just one factor. I expect the biggest factor at this stage with my tank is going to be the reduction in fish food.

I do think light intensity plays a part in algae growth. But, once you've decided on the right lighting for your tank and organisms, it is essentially a constant. What varies, among other things, is the amount of nutrients we input and export from our tanks, and what organisms we stock to consume/process them.

 

[hottuna]

Hate to pee on your parade .OP...but your tank is not a success...It would take a TON of light and other conditions that we just cant achieve in a home aquarium to replicate a true seagrass biotope....
But I commend you for trying....

 

[sam.basye]

Hottuna, what makes you think that a seagrass biotope is not achievable? Metal halides are very close to that of the sun and in nature, seagrasses do not get full intensity light anyways due to clouds and the different seasons, depths of the ocean. Nutrients can be introduced and recreated or taken away in a home aquarium. Yes it's not real nature, but it's pretty dang close. The OP has done a great job really taking the time to study and introduce livestock in a patient and well thought out manor as to not rush things. As far as I can tell, his tank is a success because the grasses are growing and are not all dead from neglect.

This type of criticism does not add to, or benefit the thread in any way. It can also keep active members from posting threads, like this one, that many people enjoy and can learn from. So if you don't have anything encouraging or constructive, don't post it.