Chiller?

mx51

New member
I just started up my tank 2weeks ago and I am having a hard time controlling my temperature, so I'm now looking into a chiller. I have a 75 gallon tank with a 40 gallon sump, running ATI 6+54 dim able sun power t5 fixture.
I was looking on bulk reef supply but they don't really say how many gallons each chiller is good for. So what size do I need to look at, and any advice on a good one would be awesome.
Thank you for any help.
 
How bad is your tank temperature? Living in Montana, I wouldn't have thought you'd need one. What kind of pumps are you running.

Typically chillers are sized based on the volume of water they can drop a certain number of degrees. So, considering the same volume, you'd need a chiller twice the size to drop the temperature twice as much, broadly speaking.
 
You may want to check that your heater is functioning properly. Most of the time the heater overheats beyond the set temp. To test this unplug the when your lights come on and watch it throughout the day.
 
I am running my system with an apex controller my heaters haven't come on in like 3 days. Last weekend I installed a dual window fan in my canopy blowing length wise across my tank. I have my apex set up to keep my temp at 77 degrees and have it set up to turn the fan on when my lights come on.
When I went to bed last night my temp was at 77.4 when I got up to go to work the temp was at 78.3. Now I know that's not really far out of line but if I was to leave it at that temp how high would it get when my lights kick back on. I have only been running my lights for 6 hours a day as I'm cycling my tank.
 
How bad is your tank temperature? Living in Montana, I wouldn't have thought you'd need one. What kind of pumps are you running.

Typically chillers are sized based on the volume of water they can drop a certain number of degrees. So, considering the same volume, you'd need a chiller twice the size to drop the temperature twice as much, broadly speaking.
As far as pumps I have a rio 2100 return pump, skimmer is a reef octopus 1000 less, I'm running a bulk reef supply premium carbon reactor with a cobalt pump, power heads are jebao wp 25 +2 I have touched everything I'm not sure what things should feel like in water but nothing feels hot to the touch...
 
...
When I went to bed last night my temp was at 77.4 when I got up to go to work the temp was at 78.3. Now I know that's not really far out of line but if I was to leave it at that temp how high would it get when my lights kick back on.

Don't know... why not let the Apex control the heater and fan and see how hot it gets? Why not let the Apex control the fan based on temperature of the tank, and not just when the lights are on... that's the beauty of a controller!

For example... I have my heater set to keep my tank between 78.6 and 79.2 degrees. If it gets up to 79.5 then my fan kicks on and will stay on until the temp gets to 79.1 degrees. That normally does the trick and keeps the tank below 79.5. If my room temp is high and the fan can't keep up, then my chiller is set to kick in at 79.7 and drive it down to 79.1.


I have only been running my lights for 6 hours a day as I'm cycling my tank.

If you're just cycling, then this is the perfect time to figure out how to keep your tank at the temp you want. The bacteria don't care about +/- 5 degrees.

But yeah... if you can't keep it under control with the fan, a chiller might be in order. Montana is like Washington (state) - most folks don't have A/C because it's not cost effective. But that doesn't mean you don't get hot days!
 
Pumps will feel tank temp in water, but put them in a 5 gallon bucket for a few hours (a mag 5 or an ehiem 1260 in a bucket will quickly exceed 100 degrees at average room temps similar for any ~60watt pump)

Temp wise you don't need to worry unless your getting up over 80, and most coral and fish don't mind even higher temps. You just don't want rapid swings of more than a few degrees.

Set your fan to run at night based on temp also as long as you have an ATO in place evaporative cooling alone can drop the tank several degrees, especially in Montana where you don't have the crazy high humidity or daytime temps to worry about. You could also look at mounting some or all of your pumps external during the summer which will reduce the heat going into your tank by a good amount (in winter though you'll benefit from them all being submerged)

You really don't need a chiller unless your needing to pull the water temp down more then 5 degrees.
 
Pumps will feel tank temp in water, but put them in a 5 gallon bucket for a few hours (a mag 5 or an ehiem 1260 in a bucket will quickly exceed 100 degrees at average room temps similar for any ~60watt pump)

Temp wise you don't need to worry unless your getting up over 80, and most coral and fish don't mind even higher temps. You just don't want rapid swings of more than a few degrees.

Set your fan to run at night based on temp also as long as you have an ATO in place evaporative cooling alone can drop the tank several degrees, especially in Montana where you don't have the crazy high humidity or daytime temps to worry about. You could also look at mounting some or all of your pumps external during the summer which will reduce the heat going into your tank by a good amount (in winter though you'll benefit from them all being submerged)

You really don't need a chiller unless your needing to pull the water temp down more then 5 degrees.

Agreed

I'm in a similar situation and it appears the chiller will add more complexity, noise and cost than it's worth. In Montana, as with my area, we're only looking at few months of high outdoor temps per month. Running A/C might be a more cost effective solution if you have it and the fans don't keep your temp stable during this time. I'm going to try every possibility before adding a chiller. They are big, require re-plumbing my hard plumbed rig and noisy. I've seen people building insulated boxes around them to keep them quiet.
 
You can get up into the low 80's with no problems.
There is nothing wrong with some temp fluctuation.
So for now, see if you can manage your heat in other ways (like posted above) before resorting to a chiller.
If you are running a sump, you could also blow some air across this, too.

Is your canopy open in the back?
The more ventilation the canopy has, the more heat can escape.
 
My canopy has a 2 inch opening in the back. Other than that it is closed off. Other than the top, the front and one of the sides are easily removable which I for the most part leave off to try and regulate the heat. I will program my apex to kick the fan on if the tank gets to a certain temp and see if I can manage the temp that way. Thank you all for the advise
 
I think you'll find the Apex-controlled fan will help you more than you would've imagined. I have a glass top on my tank. The back 3-4 inches are open. But a little clip on fan blowing across that area will drop my tank temp by a half a degree with no problem in about 20 minutes. Assuming your house humidity is low - which I'm guessing it is in Great Falls - a fan can do quite a bit.

Before I got an Apex, I had my fan on a timer in the summer so that it would run in the afternoon when things got warm, but turn off at night. Often, I'd come home to find the fan going (based on the timer) and the heaters on trying to warm things up! And that was with the house temp in the high 70s! Fans, assuming your house isn't too warm or humid, can easily drop a tank's temp by a couple degrees.
 
That will be awesome if I can manage the heat using the apex, because I would like to switch my lights out to kessiles which I would think help with my heat issues. But if I don't have to buy a chiller I would be able to get them sooner
 
That will be awesome if I can manage the heat using the apex, because I would like to switch my lights out to kessiles which I would think help with my heat issues. But if I don't have to buy a chiller I would be able to get them sooner

I just switched from 2x 96W PC bulbs to LED. Granted... a couple PC bulbs aren't the heat generators that higher powered lights are, but the switch made a huge difference in the excess heat around my tank. Even though I have a chiller, I'm starting to doubt if it will even be needed this summer. With the new LEDs, my heaters have been on waaaay more than normal for this time and year and the house hasn't really been any cooler than normal.
 
I just switched from 2x 96W PC bulbs to LED. Granted... a couple PC bulbs aren't the heat generators that higher powered lights are, but the switch made a huge difference in the excess heat around my tank. Even though I have a chiller, I'm starting to doubt if it will even be needed this summer. With the new LEDs, my heaters have been on waaaay more than normal for this time and year and the house hasn't really been any cooler than normal.
That's good to know where in WA. Are you?
 
Pumps will feel tank temp in water, but put them in a 5 gallon bucket for a few hours (a mag 5 or an ehiem 1260 in a bucket will quickly exceed 100 degrees at average room temps similar for any ~60watt pump)

Temp wise you don't need to worry unless your getting up over 80, and most coral and fish don't mind even higher temps. You just don't want rapid swings of more than a few degrees.

Set your fan to run at night based on temp also as long as you have an ATO in place evaporative cooling alone can drop the tank several degrees, especially in Montana where you don't have the crazy high humidity or daytime temps to worry about. You could also look at mounting some or all of your pumps external during the summer which will reduce the heat going into your tank by a good amount (in winter though you'll benefit from them all being submerged)

You really don't need a chiller unless your needing to pull the water temp down more then 5 degrees.

I let my tank get up to 82* during the summer months and at that, there is nothing to worry about. My corals and fish are all just fine and I've got over 70 fish in my tank including large tangs, several pygmy angles, cardinals, blennies, goby's, butteryfly fish, wrasses, damsels, cowfish, chromis etc.. All of them thriving. While I could keep it cooler by having my fans come on sooner, I already evaporate over 5G per day and as far as my tanks health, 1 or 2 degrees lower won't make any difference short of using more RODI to compensate for evaporation.

Like you noted, most fish and corals have no issues with temps above 80. Much of our corals and many of our fish come from climates where reef temps regularly hit 82-85* during the warmer months and in some cases, even higher. While running at 82* isn't a real issue, the bigger concern would be large temp swings at night in a smaller system. This is something I don't have to worry about but it would be a concern for others. Fortunately my pumps double as my heaters so a heater is something I've never run on my large system and with my water volume, temps swings are VERY slow.

I used to keep my tank temps at or below 78* and since I raised that level and set my fans to come on at 82, my chiller hasn't turned on in two years or more and I've seen absolutely no ill effects from the increased temp during the summer months. My fish and all my corals thrive. During the winter, my tank runs around 77* on it own.

OP, a couple good small fans or even a single fan blowing across the water in your sump will do wonders for controlling your tank temps. I can drop my 600 gallon system by 1.5* in a couple hours with my two 8" clip on fans from Walmart. I use my Apex to control my fans and it works great.
 
Thank you all for the advice. My apex has been controlling my fans for 2 days now instead of just coming when the lights turn on. And actually the fan hasn't come on much at all, but the outside temp has been fairly cool the last couple of days.we will see what happens this week it's supposed to hit 90.
 
...we will see what happens this week it's supposed to hit 90.

How are things going? I think you're getting the same system we are - we were at 92 yesterday with the house getting up to around 82. My chiller actually kicked in a couple times toward the end of the day when the fans couldn't keep up.
 
+1 on apex. I know you're new to this, but I've gotta say, to this point, apex controlled dosing and temperature is just about as good as it gets as far as peace of mind. NOTHING is truly fool proof and everything CAN fail at some point, but it's just such a valuable tool. I allow my temperature to fluctuate from 78-81 in a 24 hour period, and it does it very gradually and slowly.

I keep the house at 74 degrees pretty much year round, though sometimes in early spring I cut the air entirely and open the windows and the house hangs out around 68-70. Either way, if you keep your temperature in too narrow of a range, your corals will love it and acclimate to that, but the problem is if something happens, they'll react super poorly to it in my experience. I used to keep my tank between 79.5-80.0. Heater cycled on and off every 30 minutes, Apex graph looked like a heartbeat. Slightest changes though would send everything into a big mess of RTN and polyp retraction.

I run 2x250 watt metal halides inside a canopy with a single 6" clip on fan from Walmart, controlled by the apex to come on when the temp hits 81 degrees, and cut off once it hits 79. Works like a charm. With T5's you should be able to easily get away with a fan alone, and not mess with a chiller. I can only imagine a chiller being necessary if you keep a really hot house, live in an arrid enviornment with no AC, or are running multiple 400 watt halides close to the water
 
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