chinese led lights

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Can these units connect in series? IE, program one, and all three would get it? Or they don't integrate with each other?
 
730
660
630
600-610
595-600
520
460
450-455
440-445
410-420
400-410
380

W(3000-3500k)
W(4000-4500k)
W(6000-6500k)
W(6500-7000k)
W(7000-7500k)
W(7500-8000k)
W(8000-8500k)
W(10000-12000k)
W(12000-14000k)
W(16000-18000k)
W(18000-20000k)
W(20000-22000k)
 
730
660
630
600-610
595-600
520
460
450-455
440-445
410-420
400-410
380

W(3000-3500k)
W(4000-4500k)
W(6000-6500k)
W(6500-7000k)
W(7000-7500k)
W(7500-8000k)
W(8000-8500k)
W(10000-12000k)
W(12000-14000k)
W(16000-18000k)
W(18000-20000k)
W(20000-22000k)

Thanks Phragger, does someone know if they are all Bridgelux?
 
Can these units connect in series? IE, program one, and all three would get it? Or they don't integrate with each other?

You can connect the power cords in series to run off one power cord. You would have to program each one if you wanted to make changes I believe.

I wonder if the wireless remote would change more than 1 unit at once....
 
Ok. I have a ???. Which blue is a more blue color and which one is more on the people spectrum? 440NM, 450NM, 460NM?


The one... The only... Exterminatank!
 
Just ordered 3 fixtures ($500)with blue channels to be - 14(460nm), 8(450-455nm), 8(400-420). White channel - 17(8000-8500), 8(3000-3500). The company evergrow sent their stock fixtures 4 UV, blue and white, prob 14000k. I am in communication with their sales rep Sunny Sun to see if they will correct this screw up.
 
Ok. I have a ???. Which blue is a more blue color and which one is more on the people spectrum? 440NM, 450NM, 460NM?

For Chlorophyll A, the peaks are at 417nm and 625nm, and for Chlorophyll B, the peaks are at 436nm and 655nm.

Here's a good chart to refer to for important spectrums.

spectrum-corals.jpg


I'm trying to stay away from the purple look. That's why I'm asking. Thanks for the info...

The one... The only... Exterminatank!

The lower in wavelength you get in the 400-500nm range, the more purple it gets. Anything above about 460nm is pretty much just for looks. If you combine the blues with warm and neutral whites, you should be able balance the amount of "purple" you don't want, as well as get the higher part of the spectrum as the white will emit some of the higher wavelengths.
 
For Chlorophyll A, the peaks are at 417nm and 625nm, and for Chlorophyll B, the peaks are at 436nm and 655nm.

Here's a good chart to refer to for important spectrums.

spectrum-corals.jpg




The lower in wavelength you get in the 400-500nm range, the more purple it gets. Anything above about 460nm is pretty much just for looks. If you combine the blues with warm and neutral whites, you should be able balance the amount of "purple" you don't want, as well as get the higher part of the spectrum as the white will emit some of the higher wavelengths.

Thanks for your rrply. So your saying 440NM is more purple than 460NM?



The one... The only... Exterminatank!
 
Thanks for your rrply. So your saying 440NM is more purple than 460NM?


The one... The only... Exterminatank!

420-440 look purple. They are also much more dim visually than blues. 450 looks like a deep royal blue. 460-470 is cool blueish, but you can't tell a difference from the 450nm leds by looking at them, at least not the ones Evergrow uses.
 
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Just received confirmation from Lyn that my new Twilight units will be in this Friday. Can't wait to see how their new grid dimmer layout looks. Should be a ton better then what I started out with.
 
For anyone else looking at Twilight, they will do Cree XPG/XPE in the 55x3 light for around the same price as the bridgelux one now too.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
 
Thank you! That's what I thought. Interesting that the LFS said 1 Radion would be fine. I might have to buy two of these or go with their NOVA setup.


I just got my light today. My tank is 30 and the coverage is pretty good, a little light on the side. but I am still playing with the right hight. I would think 36 would be pushing it.
 
Ok. Been working on this a bit. Thoughts? Opinions? For those who have these leds already do you think you can picture the outcome of these together? I don't want it too purple colored (if that makes sense) but also trying to get a good amount of different spectrums for good coral growth. What do you think? You think it is necessary or just stick to 450NM blues and 6500k and 18000k bulbs?uploadfromtaptalk1346903791651.jpguploadfromtaptalk1346903831882.jpg
 
Since we're talking colors, I have something I've been wondering. 6500K, which is a daylight white, looks yellow in aquarium water and needs actinics to balance out the look. 3500K has a yellow hue. In the aquarium, won't it be significantly more yellow requiring much more blues to balance it out?
 
Since we're talking colors, I have something I've been wondering. 6500K, which is a daylight white, looks yellow in aquarium water and needs actinics to balance out the look. 3500K has a yellow hue. In the aquarium, won't it be significantly more yellow requiring much more blues to balance it out?

Color Temp Labels like 6500k are actually meaningless. It is the actual spectrum that the led is putting out that is key. Usually there are datasheets that show this. I'll have to request them. I did this based on theory, and it worked out.

3500k and 6500k sound like they would look like bright urine if the white channel was on 100% and blue off. The 3500k leds definitely look yellow on the fixture.

In actuality, the mixture of 3500k and 6500k looks less visually yellow than the 10k leds alone did on my Nova, although I have violets on the same channel and it may be affecting it. It actually retains more of a "white/yellow" look.
 
You can connect the power cords in series to run off one power cord. You would have to program each one if you wanted to make changes I believe.

I wonder if the wireless remote would change more than 1 unit at once....

This is my thought exactly. I'm going to have four of them up there and it would be VERY NICE if they all changed with one remote exactly the same. Is it IR or RF? I'm assuming RF because if they are in a canopy you have no sightline. In which case they should all change with one remote. I'd like to confirm that
 
IR. If you point the remote away from the fixture, it doesn't do anything. You need line of sight.

RF to control multiple units could be nice in a future revision.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
 
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