Sounds like the power supplies.
Chinese LED Lights
- Thread starter cmac23
- Start date
Sounds like the power supplies.
I have done a lot of Mods on my D120's. Your LED's probably died because they got too hot. I installed heatsinks into mine and it has lowered the tempature.
I'm not sure if the 2080's have them but the D120 Evergrow do not. How high did you have the 2080's cranked up?
60 degree optics are the way to go. More par to the bottom of the tank plus you don't need to use as much power which will lower the LED heat and increase their lifespan.
Aliexpress
I bought some LED's from RF (Logan). My order was missing some LED's. Logan shipped the missing ones out to me and sent 6 extra LED's besides the ones that were missing. Top Notch. I will order from him in the future!
what do you think about this layout
90 degree optics and 120.. 120 are the dotted red lines.
I would add another 630, 660, and get 2 590's off of ebay and install them. Also add a lot more 420's. If you look at the suns output at 1 meter and 10 meters UV 390 - 430 is about 1/2 the strength of the blues. Do coral need that? Thats the question. But I think full spectrum is the key without major dips. You may want to also install some 405nm and 500nm in there too.
I saw this ratio posted in one of the 105 pages a few weeks ago, (lol) but now I cant find it. Anyways, i'm interested in this ratio but, Ive read many different things on the different color whites. Cool Whites, Neutral whites and Warm Whites. Can you guys please help me decide what would be the best??
Also, channel-wise, should I get the Violets to turn on with the Royal Blues? or should I just have whites alone? and colors on a separate channels?
your advise would be highly appreciated.
Thanks guys!:beer::fish1:
3500 to 6500 kelvin will give you a full range and strong output. 3500 gives you more red and 6500 gives you more yellow. 10k and up has much less yellow and red but you pick up some more green and blue bandwidth. It is important to have a variety so you don't have dips.
It depends. If you look at the spectrums of white even with cool whites they do have gaps. Most people have 420 uv, 450, 460, and sometimes 470nm leds. But whites fall off a cliff at 520 - 530nm. It creates a big gap. Personally I don't like how the 520's look they wash out the tank (IMO). So what I have is 405, 420nm, 450nm, 460nm, 480nm, 500nm (cyan), and then 20k white to fill in the gap. I also have 12k, 6.5k, 3.5k 590, 630, 660, and 730nm to finish the full spectrum. Here is a good site to play around with.
http://www.1023world.net/diy/spectra/
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Reef_Breeders
Sponsor
We have heat sinks installed in our value fixtures, it costs more but is well worth it. They do just fine without the heat sink, but the cooler they run, thr better.
hey Ron,
I need some help figuring out some lighting issues I am having and I hope you can help me,
first off I purchased the 32 inch programable led system from reef breeders back in january,and I have been running it with my 4-t5 bulbs since then,I am running the t5s from 11;30am till around 4pm and the leds ram up from 0 starting around 9am to 50/50 when the t5s come on and ram back down to 0 around 10;30pm.
the thing I notice is that all my corals are fuller and happier when the t5s are on and when the leds are only on the lps's seem to shrivel up some.so it looks like they like the t5 light and not the leds,but I have had awesome growth since january,and so you know there was a period where the leds where runing at 60% to 80% and I have seen some slight bleaching/fading of color on some of my zoanthids at mid tank.my corals consist of about 50types of zoanthids,about a dozen types of lps,half dozen or so of soft leathers,and about 6 frags of sps/montiporias.and I have my leds ramping up on half hour increments,in the morning the blues come on first and then the whites come on and slowly ramp to 50% at the time the t5s come on,then in reverse order in the evening.and it seems all the colors seem to be washed out during the peek of the day and once the blue color is more dominant thats when the colors of the corals really stand out.
I would greatly appreciate any help or ideas on this issue.
I need some help figuring out some lighting issues I am having and I hope you can help me,
first off I purchased the 32 inch programable led system from reef breeders back in january,and I have been running it with my 4-t5 bulbs since then,I am running the t5s from 11;30am till around 4pm and the leds ram up from 0 starting around 9am to 50/50 when the t5s come on and ram back down to 0 around 10;30pm.
the thing I notice is that all my corals are fuller and happier when the t5s are on and when the leds are only on the lps's seem to shrivel up some.so it looks like they like the t5 light and not the leds,but I have had awesome growth since january,and so you know there was a period where the leds where runing at 60% to 80% and I have seen some slight bleaching/fading of color on some of my zoanthids at mid tank.my corals consist of about 50types of zoanthids,about a dozen types of lps,half dozen or so of soft leathers,and about 6 frags of sps/montiporias.and I have my leds ramping up on half hour increments,in the morning the blues come on first and then the whites come on and slowly ramp to 50% at the time the t5s come on,then in reverse order in the evening.and it seems all the colors seem to be washed out during the peek of the day and once the blue color is more dominant thats when the colors of the corals really stand out.
I would greatly appreciate any help or ideas on this issue.
Just ordered an IT2040 for my 24x24x12 frag tank today. Can't wait to get it! If I like it, I'll probably switch my display over from T5 to these as well. Here's the layout I went with as recommended by members of my local club. I hope it's good!
LED's are a great way to go. And later on if you want to change the look their pretty easy to modify.
After a lot of modification here is what my lights look like. I was trying to get a little closer to a full spectrum but still have a decent 450 peak. I also graphed out what it will look like based on the LM output of each bulb and using a program I found.
Below is the output of the sun at different depths.
Below is the output of the sun at different depths.
I've thought about it but I think the LED's are restricted to 2.2 volts max because of how the d120 and other chinese lights are wired. So you would probably not see a difference.
Reef_Breeders
Sponsor
No, you cannot.
1: at 5watts, a Cree XT-E needs to be at about 1300ma- and is way innefficient. If they are advertised at 5watts, they will burn out prematurely- 1000ma max is the way to go with those.
2: Bridgelux LEDs are about 10 times the size- so even if you could smd solder the crees, it would be impossible to solder them on a bridgelux board
3: our drivers go to 570ma max, which would be good for the XT-Es, actually. the SuperNova will drive them at 1000ma max, with a reccomended 350ma drive current, or 35% power. The lower you run LEDs, the more efficient they are. We may have a rig designed that will allow users to put crees on a BL board- a tiny pcb.
Triggerfish
Active member
made a reflector to put behind the light against the back wall to reflect some of the light back down.. while adjusting it my other hand hit one of the screws on side of fixture and gave me a pretty good bolt. should that be normal?
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