Chinese LED Lights

Rarend99 said:
Yes but more coverage for a larger tank
Click to expand...

Hmmmm, that's true. You're right; that would work better.
You could also use a Photon 48. That would only need the light to extend a foot on either side. 90* optics in any case would be optimal, so the height you hang it from the tank will be equal to the spread on either side.
So, 13-14" hang height would be good for a Photon 48. A pair of Photon 16s, hung 10" from the sides of the tank and 20" from each other, would need to be hung only 12" off the water.
 
Nammy said:
I just bought (4 days old ) the IT2080 Controllable Full Spectrum LED (32" Light) and noticed if I lose power when it returns, the lights doesn't revert back to what I have programmed. Instead it will go back to default. Sucks because I have my lights setup between 10:30-23:30 so I can enjoy my aqaurium with lights on a higher setting in the evening.
Click to expand...

This is the problem on only half houe increments. If the fixture looses power memory is lost. If you use one hour increments you will be fine. I think some problem with controller. All fixtures have it.
 
Stomatopod1701 said:
The two 16s would work, but one 48 would give you more options in the future if you want to try more demanding corals.
Click to expand...

I think a pair of 16s would be more than enough light for the most demanding of SPS, provided you use 90* optics. You wouldn't have maximas on the sandbed, but halfway up the tank would be good.
 
Ron I was wondering if you replaced out most of your whites in your fixtures. I remember you were looking into it. Also how was the growth when you were running your fixture with the blues cranked to 90% and the whites at only 10%?
 
unitedbga said:
Ron I was wondering if you replaced out most of your whites in your fixtures. I remember you were looking into it. Also how was the growth when you were running your fixture with the blues cranked to 90% and the whites at only 10%?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure I ever said quite the things you are crediting me with. But maybe I did, so lets clear the air.

I did intend to swap out 'some' of my whites for blue, I never intended to do 'most' of them. However, I haven't changed a single led in my IT2080's over my 180g DT. Call me lazy or a procrastinator and you'd by more right than wrong. :rollface: I had been running my lights at 90% blue and 40-50% white for 7 months (I just changed my light schedule). I wanted to remove 'some' whites and add blues so I could get closer to running both channels at even power settings and have the look I wanted. Even at 90%:40% I was a bit more white than I liked. But at that level I also have 200-225 PAR at the sand with sps & lps both growing down there. So the lazy me decided I could live with it. And over the last 8 months my coral growth has been just as good as it was under 1250W of MH, t5 and a few leds. And my June and July electric bills were $40 or more lower than June and July of 2012! Less power to lights, the chiller runs WAY less and my home A/C runs less as well.

I never ran my lights at 90%:10%, even as part of sunrise or sunset. When the white channel was as low as 0-20%, the blue channel would be at 60% or lower.

About 7-10 days ago I changed my light program from a 4 hour sunrise, 5 hour midday (the 90%:40%) and 5 hour sunset to one that has a 7 hour sunrise that gets to 100% on both channels for an hour and then an 8 hour sunset. Dawn has a 2 hour blue only and dusk has a 3 hour blue only (at low power levels). I've had a single bleaching event on a montipora confusa coral that is high on the rocks and under the glass center brace. The flats of the coral have bleached but the 'pillars' which get less light because the are vertical, still look to be doing fine. So I'm risking that it will acclimate and recover. We'll see. I consider it an experiment.

At this point I don't see me changing any individual leds out as I'm hoping the new OceanRevive system, due out soon with a controller system, will be as good as I hope for. If it is I would like to try it out. From the little I know about it, I see some advantages that I would really like to try and incorporate into my system. One being an attempt to reduce the high contrast look, i.e. bright light on top of rocks and ledges with very dark shadows under them. It's kind of an inherent led problem that I think I can overcome with their new light. Again, we'll see. And if I can, trust me, you'll see it here on RC! :thumbsup:
 
Last edited:
Ron Reefman said:
I'm not sure I ever said quite the things you are crediting me with. But maybe I did, so lets clear the air.

I did intend to swap out 'some' of my whites for blue, I never intended to do 'most' of them. However, I haven't changed a single led in my IT2080's over my 180g DT. Call me lazy or a procrastinator and you'd by more right than wrong. :rollface: I had been running my lights at 90% blue and 40-50% white for 7 months (I just changed my light schedule). I wanted to remove 'some' whites and add blues so I could get closer to running both channels at even power settings and have the look I wanted. Even at 90%:40% I was a bit more white than I liked. But at that level I also have 200-225 PAR at the sand with sps & lps both growing down there. So the lazy me decided I could live with it. And over the last 8 months my coral growth has been just as good as it was under 1250W of MH, t5 and a few leds. And my June and July electric bills were $40 or more lower than June and July of 2012! Less power to lights, the chiller runs WAY less and my home A/C runs less as well.

I never ran my lights at 90%:10%, even as part of sunrise or sunset. When the white channel was as low as 0-20%, the blue channel would be at 60% or lower.

About 7-10 days ago I changed my light program from a 4 hour sunrise, 5 hour midday (the 90%:40%) and 5 hour sunset to one that has a 7 hour sunrise that gets to 100% on both channels for an hour and then an 8 hour sunset. Dawn has a 2 hour blue only and dusk has a 3 hour blue only (at low power levels). I've had a single bleaching event on a montipora confusa coral that is high on the rocks and under the glass center brace. The flats of the coral have bleached but the 'pillars' which get less light because the are vertical, still look to be doing fine. So I'm risking that it will acclimate and recover. We'll see. I consider it an experiment.

At this point I don't see me changing any individual leds out as I'm hoping the new OceanRevive system, due out soon with a controller system, will be as good as I hope for. If it is I would like to try it out. From the little I know about it, I see some advantages that I would really like to try and incorporate into my system. One being an attempt to reduce the high contrast look, i.e. bright light on top of rocks and ledges with very dark shadows under them. It's kind of an inherent led problem that I think I can overcome with their new light. Again, we'll see. And if I can, trust me, you'll see it here on RC! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...


Thanks for clearing things up. On one side of my tank I'm trying an experiment. On the right side I have the LED's that I modded from before.
On the left side I have it setup as follows.

6 405nm
8 420nm
18 450nm
8 460nm
4 480nm
1 500nm
1 630nm
2 660nm
1 20k
2 10k
3 6.5k
2 3.5k

All the violets and blues and 6.5knm whites are split on the two channels. Then I have the 500nm green and 10k nm whites on one channel and the 630nm/660nm reds and 3.5k nm whites on the other channel.
It allows me to adjust the green/red hue like on a tv. It looks similar to running blue at 100 percent and white at 10 but it has a slight purple tint.

What do you think about this?
 
I would replace all whites with neutral whites. You have 18 RB, so swapping out the whites won't be bad for color temperature.
 
unitedbga said:
Ron I was wondering if you replaced out most of your whites in your fixtures. I remember you were looking into it. Also how was the growth when you were running your fixture with the blues cranked to 90% and the whites at only 10%?
Click to expand...

I replaced 6 of the 14 whites. It comes stock with 14 4500k whites but I replaced 6 with 14000k whites for cooler blue look. I also replaced 4 of the 450nm blues with 480nm blues. Red corals seem to respond to the 480 a little more and these changes made my corals look much better. Here is what I run

 
asid61 said:
Why do you think 2 16s are not enough? Hung high enough, they should work.
But like I said, no clams on the sandbed.
Click to expand...

You could hang them high enough but the par would be very low even in the middle of the tank. I kept mine about 6 to 8 inches above the water. I think you would also have a lot of light spillage raising to high to get a good spread. It is worth a try if it is a budget problem but 3 16's worked good for me.
 
asid61 said:
Well, for the price of 3 16's, a single 48 would work.
Click to expand...

3 P16's will give you roughly 150 leds, 1 P48 is only 100 leds. I'd go for the 3 P16's.
More light, better coverage, Ability to 'offset' one fixture more forward over the tank for less contrast looking light, run them at lower power, potential for a lot more PAR, better back up should a fixture fail (3 vs 1)... it's a no brainer IMHO.
 
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