Closed loop circulation? Why/Why not?

i prefer vortech, its simple and do an excellent flow
close loop is to much labyrinth and get off a lot of space

and let me tell you the flow that they make is too direct
(well depends on plumbing)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15217620#post15217620 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by KarlBob
I think I'm getting confused about terminology.

If I had a sump, and the return flow from the sump was the main source of flow in my tank, would that be considered a Closed Loop?

Or,

If I had a tube that came out of my display tank, went through a pump, and went back into my display tank, with no diversions along the way, existing only to provide flow, would that be the true and proper definition of a Closed Loop?

First, one wants high circulation inside the tank. Second, high flow within plumbing is energy inefficient.

High flow thru a sump is rather demanding, and risker in terms of equipment/plumbing failure. Designed high flowrate is more subject to clogging at the drain. Less than optimal drain, some partial clogging, hurts slow flow less.

You can have just one loop, but it is demanding on the robustness of the setup and energy. Some small setups have just one loop, the open loop. Or a compromise.
 
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No matter what system you go with, there are pros and cons. It all boils down to looking at those pros and cons and making a personal decision about what ones work best for ones own particular set up ;)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15227986#post15227986 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by billsreef
No matter what system you go with, there are pros and cons. It all boils down to looking at those pros and cons and making a personal decision about what ones work best for ones own particular set up ;)

I have to agree 100%, it really is hard to declare a "perfect" solution as each tank (and owner) has so many different parameters. Personal tastes are different, some people hate powerheads or othe pumps in their tank, other dislike a tank that has a dozen hole drilled in it and a maze of plumbing. To each their own in this respect, both move water and are most of an matter of taste. It's probably best to have a water movement goal and then find the best way to meet it within your specific constraints. I think it's easy to see that good water flow is a key parameter of a tank though unfortunately is sometimes one that people leave as one of the last they consider when it comes to spending on their tanks.
 
A CL will never fall down and rearrange your 6" DSB while you're gone for a long weekend :( burying 1/3 of your corals:( *&^%ing off another 1/3 :( upsetting your huge condy and sending it on walk-about killing spree on the other 1/3 :( Moral of this story: suction cups suck. Lesson learned!

Working on a 90 build now and it will have a CL.
 
I believe a real closed loop definitely has it advantage. It is hidden and easy to maintain. As long as the pump works not much is chancy.

It is less energy efficient, however. I think it is obvious. Those would say it is as energy efficeint as K4 etc is not reasonable. It is simple law of physics that flow thru conduits is less energy efficient as greater friction has to be overcome.
 
simple and effective CL

center suction with returns on either end of the tank. Returns are hooked up to penductors and alternate flow every few seconds through a SQWD. It's funny to watch the fish get caught up in the flow jets

closedlooppumpandSCWD.jpg
 
My vote if for closed loop! Use good plumbing and lots of ball valves\unions to allow disassembly without draining the tank ;) My 180 gallon was drilled in 6 places on the bottom of the tank and it never failed in the 8 years it was up. One of my glass seams did come apart and dump 100Gallons of water on the floor but the closed loop never leaked :) Now Im building a Marineland 200 DD and am drilling a single 3.25" hole in the back for the 2" schedule 80 intake bulkhead. Ill be using a dart Gold instead of a hammerhead this time to save on some power.

Good luck!
 
i've got a reefflo hammerhead pump with 1 /1/2 inch intake and output PVC. By looking at my closed loop system please explain to me your thoughts how you would be cleaning the lines and pump all the time? how are 1 1/2" PVC lines gonna stop up running 6k GPH?
Not only that I can add another T joint to my system and add additional lock lines anywhere I want them.

CL.jpg


hammer-head.jpg


Power heads are nothing more than PITA IMHO.
 
Great thread... I'm mid-build of my 180g. It has two closed loops, one to create mass-water motion (barrel roll style)... the theory is the kenitic energy in 180gallons of rolling water is hard to stop... so it gets "everywhere"... the second CL is on an oceansmotions 4-way to create the turbulanace in the system. The thing that made me feel better is that other people also made swiss cheese out of there tanks... mine has 13 holes in the bottom... 1.5" bulk-head size.... 3 for the sump (2 down, 1 return) and 2x5 for the closedloops... Each driven on gold-series darts btw, for 4200gph each..

The reason for the CL vs in-tank powerheads is simple... Clean-Look. All of my "holes" are in the bottom of the tank... the plumbing will be 100% covered in DIY cement... save maybe the slightest amount of the CL that's on the 4way so I can play/fine tune flow... The tank is 4-side viewable, so any powerheads/overflows/wires etc were not an option to keep the "clean, zen" work...

Anyhow... Sorry for the ramble... just wanted to say, I feel better knowing I'm not alone with so many holes in a big glass bucket of water... Up to know I was questioning my sanity...
 
Tank is "in transit" so I've not photos... It arrives this week... Here's the design diagram sent to the tank builders.

Untitled-1-1.jpg
 
I also run my closed loops over the top of the tank so it can be rearranged and removed for cleaning as needed.
 
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