Compact Trash Can on Wheels?

Itchy Trigger

Active member
Getting tired of lugging buckets for my water changes on the 330g, and would love to find a garbage can on wheels I can use to transport the mixed saltwater from the bathroom to the tank. Problem is I am limited on storage space. I'd like to be able to store the can in my fish closet, which is pretty narrow. And I would like to do 30 gallon water changes (roughly 10% total volume of system).

Trying to find some narrow "space saver" cans but having trouble. Can anyone help with a link or word of advice?
 
How about whatever fits where you need to store it, a length of vinyl tubing, a couple plastic garden hose connectors, and a mag pump of your choice? I use a mag18 to get the water up from the basement.
 
How about whatever fits where you need to store it, a length of vinyl tubing, a couple plastic garden hose connectors, and a mag pump of your choice? I use a mag18 to get the water up from the basement.

That's a very good idea. I did find a 55 gallon can that would fit, but it had no wheels and wouldn't fit a dolly... So this could be the way to go... :thumbsup:
 
Remember also that 30g of water is going to tip the scales at ~240 pounds. Just where do you think that water will go when the wheels break? (and Johnike's house is not the correct answer)(unless you're Johnike)
 
Remember also that 30g of water is going to tip the scales at ~240 pounds. Just where do you think that water will go when the wheels break? (and Johnike's house is not the correct answer)(unless you're Johnike)

Good point, funny too :beer:
 
Remember also that 30g of water is going to tip the scales at ~240 pounds. Just where do you think that water will go when the wheels break? (and Johnike's house is not the correct answer)(unless you're Johnike)

Haha, very true! Yes, I'm going to snag this Rubbermaid 50g square can I found.
 
I have a spare Mag 9.5 in the closet... Do you think that would be enough to push water down the hall and up to the tank? Probably about 35-40 feet total distance.
 
yeah that will work fine. You'll get the best flow using 3/4 vinyl tubing. While you are out buying tubing and hose connectors, pick up a remote control plug (about $10 at menards).

That way, you can plug the mag9 into the remote plug, get your hose all set and ready, and then just push a button to get the water started/stopped. It is WAY EASIER than trying to race the water from the barrel to the tank. Oh - and even if you think the hose is in the sump - what can happen - it won't be. (I've pulled a couple johnike's myself over the years)
 
+1 on the pump and hose idea. You can also find RV hosed designed for potable water that will work if you replace the brass connectors. Just add a valve at the end and you can fill the tank in complete comfort!

Depending on your plumbing, you can also use the hose to drain the tank.

Edit: I've also heard of people using ultra flex flexible PVC tubing - you can get it in 1" diameter if the smaller vinyl tubing is giving too much resistance
 
Thanks guys. Pump and hose it is. Heathlindner - I believe those Brute cans are too wide. I've only got 19.5" max. Found a 19.5" deep square can that holds 50 gallons. Pretty great.

Will now just figure out what type of hose to use. I'd probably just put a bulkhead on the container with hose barbs on both sides - one to the pump inside and one to the hose on the outside. That way I could leave the hose coiled up next to the container and have a lid on the container to minimize evaporation.
 
Thanks guys. Pump and hose it is. Heathlindner - I believe those Brute cans are too wide. I've only got 19.5" max. Found a 19.5" deep square can that holds 50 gallons. Pretty great.

Will now just figure out what type of hose to use. I'd probably just put a bulkhead on the container with hose barbs on both sides - one to the pump inside and one to the hose on the outside. That way I could leave the hose coiled up next to the container and have a lid on the container to minimize evaporation.

I would recommend a uniseal over a bulkhead for a a plastic container. The gasket on bulkheads tends to leak if the wall flexes at all. What I have is a uniseal, a female PVC adapter and a hose barb screwed into the adapter. You can find larger hose PVC hose barbs in the irrigation section of Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Street/Spigot-barb adapters will let you cement the fitting if you so desire.
 
won't the 35 gallon gray "Brute" trash can work for you? they have dolly wheels that are sold separate that lock into underneath the can.

We used to use those (actually the one step larger) at our old place. They work, but it's still a lot of water lugging. +1 to pumping water from a remote mixing tank.
 
How's this for an idea... Rather than using a remote control outlet, how about if I install a bulkhead on top of the tank with a 3/4" elbow and a slip union. Then on the other side of the union glue in a hose barb and connect that to a length of 3/4" ID hose that goes to the reservoir. Then when ready to fill the tank, I just uncoil the hose, screw the union together and turn on the pump. When finished, unscrew the union, roll up the hose and done...

Thoughts?
 
Rather than the remote outlet (or in addition to it,) I would put a ball valve in the tubing close to the end, so you could shut it off when necessary. You could also use something like this to connect the tubing. The union would potentially allow for higher flows, depending on the size, but is a bit bulkier.

I have a Tee on the return for my tank that connects to a piece of tubing with a male hose thread on the other end. I screwed one of the quick-connect fittings on so I can easily attach/detach a hose and use my return pump to pump water out of the sump to do a water change. The quick connect fitting has a stop on it, so it won't allow water to flow if nothings connected, but I put a ball valve in front of it, just in case.

Another option for you would be to take some 3/4" PVC pipe & fittings and make an inverted U that would hang on the side of your tank or sump. It would be fairly secure, easy to place, and not involve drilling for a bulkhead.
 
The ball valve near the end of the hose is a good idea. Would also keep water from dripping everywhere as I coil the hose back up.
 
One question about the uniseal... What actually goes through/into it? Do you run pipe through it? Or would you be gluing the hose barbs into it? I'm assuming it's rubber and flexible, so I wasn't sure how it accommodated the plumbing.
 
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