Comparable ATOs

GatorEngineer

New member
I have been looking on Premium Aquatics
and also autotopoff.com. my setup will be in sump, feeding from a reservoir.
just wondering what the difference between some of the units are?
I see some for $40 and some for $99.
anyone using these or others please chime in.
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...PROD&Product_Code=GAP-LC&Category_Code=Dosers
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...Product_Code=AH-DELU-ATO&Category_Code=Dosers
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...ROD&Product_Code=JBJ-ATO&Category_Code=Dosers
or these two
http://www.autotopoff.com/products/DS1/
http://www.autotopoff.com/products/SS1
thanks.
 
They are all different ways of doing the same thing. One uses an electronic float switch to trigger a pump to pump water to the tank, another does it mechanically, and some are more sophisticated. The consensus on RC states that simpler is better, just for the fact that there is less to go wrong.
 
I have been looking for one too and have just been watching the threads for about 6 mo. It seems that, although there are many people who have others, the Tunze osmolator is the favorite at RC because of its reliability. I have never read anyone that posted something bad about one, but it is $200. I have looked into the JBJ but it gets some bad reports and many who love it. The DIY ones at AutoTopOff.com seem to be well liked but I'm not handy so they're out for me. The best advice I have seen is to get one that has a backup. In other words, more than one sensor in case one fails.
 
i'm with you on this one (that is, confused).

there seems to be a choice between
1) mechanical float switches (e.g. JBJ, reeffanatic, diy)
2) optical switches (tunze)
3) hingeing float switches (float cutoff valves)
4) air pressure switches (spectrapure LLC-PH)
5) and other switches

each has differing amounts of maintenance, and different
(but UNKNOWN) failure rates.

part of what i do for a living is designing reliable distributed computing
and i think i know how to design around the frailities of switches and sensors
but the cost rapidly mounts and its hard to do if the failure rates are unknown.
it also matters a lot what the negative consequences of a failure are.

generally, one would use multiple switches, preferably of diverse types,
and drive to a "safe" state if you detect an anomaly. unfortunately, with tank
stuff, there rarely seems to be a safe state.

for what its worth, i chose a scheme with the fewest moving parts (none)
(but which undoubtably still has a failure rate) and seems modestly cheap
as these things go (the spectrapure LLC which works on air pressure).
if you prefer float switches, my research showed a modest preference for
the reef fanatic level controller.
 
Have recently purchased a JBJ ATO and use a very small powerhead in a 30 litre container of water. Feeds directly into the sump return pipe (above the the level of the container top) and this works great. Not using the second float switch but could set it up to cut off at a maximun level if required. Sure beats doing manual top offs and allows me to travel without "trusting" someone to do the right thing.
 
fisho,

how does your scheme actually work? one would think that the force of teh return pump
would force water back through the topoff pump.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14671443#post14671443 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by monotreme_man
fisho,

how does your scheme actually work? one would think that the force of teh return pump
would force water back through the topoff pump.

My tank has a corner overflow and large enough pipe that is large enough to cope with the return volume and still pull a lot of air down with it as well. The ATO is just fed into the return pipe above the water level of the container with a glued in barbed fitting. No return water enters the fresh water reservoir because of the air / water mix falling past the barbed fitting. Tried just putting the fresh water line into the sump but the container is tall and it created a siphon every time the pump ran. You could also put in a one way valve or insert the barbed fitting on an angle to stop upwards flow of the return water into the fresh tank. Don't think it would work on a system relying on a siphon into the sump though. The siphon would break or it would pull fresh water in when you didn't want it. Love this hobby you have to be a plumber, scientist / physics professor , chemist and marine biologist to get something simple to work :D
 
ahh, by sump return pipe you meant the pipe returning water to the sump.
gotcha.

know what you mean about plumbing; the guy we have at work who maintains
our espresso machine was an experimental nuclear physicist -- turns out they
mainly do plumbing.
 
know what you mean about plumbing; the guy we have at work who maintains
our espresso machine was an experimental nuclear physicist -- turns out they
mainly do plumbing.

Scary! Don't know if I'd be drinking his coffee, you might grow another head and glow in the dark as a results of his efforts to perfect the foam content. A dash of plutonium here and voila!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14672038#post14672038 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by THE ROOK
Autotopoff.com comes pre-assembled. Just add an aqualifter ($15.00), some airline tubing, a reservoir & your done.

Go with the dual float : http://www.autotopoff.com/products/DS1/

Aquahub is the one that requires all the assembly. I have it but recommend the one above. Two simple electronic floats.

thanks everyone for the info.

went with this one. should be shipping out thursday. can't wait to stop adding water every day.
 
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