Complete DIY Custom 144x15x15
- Thread starter calvin415
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calvin415
New member
Looks like even "low voltage" wire is still rated at 30 volts, 15 amps, 450watts. I think it should be fine, only running 4x54w = 216watts.
http://www.generalcable.com/NR/rdon...A604-B364F9246412/0/Pg116_LoVoltSprinkler.pdf
http://www.generalcable.com/NR/rdon...A604-B364F9246412/0/Pg116_LoVoltSprinkler.pdf
melev
Well-known member
I tend to think you'll be fine as well. The sprinkler wiring is designed for low voltage. And I don't know what the power is considering coming out of the IceCap 430/660 ballasts are considered, but I do own a Kilowatt and with two 160w bulbs, I should be using 320w of power. However, the meter shows it only uses 187w, or 1.8 Amps.
The voltage rating of wire is based on the insulation. If the insulation is too thin (like rated for 30V and you're running 600V), you could leak voltage and get shocked if you touch it. The amperage rating is based on the surface area of the wire itself, so 18ga solid copper wire will have the same amperage rating, regardless of the voltage rating.
mountaindew
New member
a quick search of mcmaster for 18 ga 6 wire / conductor or any other combo of cord / cable will give you an idea of what you can buy over the counter and what its rated for.
calvin415
New member
Thanks Lane, since I don't know the volts coming out of the IceCap, I guess I'll play it safe instead. If I buy all the same color the price drops but if I go with mixed colors to match the ballasts then I'm looking at a bit more... Guess we'll see what the budget looks like in the weeks ahead.
If there is nothing printed on the outer sheath of the cable as far as voltage rating, and you are sure it was for low voltage, then I would recommend getting new wire that is rated for the high voltage. Especially considering the extreme corrosive conditions caused by saltwater.
That's the professional opinion. Now my personal opinion is that if they look the same, smell the same, taste the same - they must be the same!
That's the professional opinion. Now my personal opinion is that if they look the same, smell the same, taste the same - they must be the same!
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Well I've just go through all 36 pages. Great build and I love the way you ask for advice where you need it and weigh all the options before pushing ahead. I have a couple of observations if you don't mind. I build furniture as a hobby and I would advise against using Luan unless it's very well protected against moisture. I like the fiberglass idea but here's something you may want to consider. This company KerfKore makes honeycomb bendable panels. I don't know how much they are or where to source them but remember "Google is your friend" 
As far as the wiring from the canopy to the ballasts under the stand you can use wire markers that stick on each end of every wire so you can't get them mixed up. Control panel builders use them extensively and they're available at Lowes.
Edit
Here's the honeycomb panel manufacturers distributor in Colorado Louis and Company
As far as the wiring from the canopy to the ballasts under the stand you can use wire markers that stick on each end of every wire so you can't get them mixed up. Control panel builders use them extensively and they're available at Lowes.
Edit
Here's the honeycomb panel manufacturers distributor in Colorado Louis and Company
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calvin415
New member
Thanks English, with the lastest design I don't need to bend anything so I hope a thin plywood sealed with fiberglass will work.
Next question, back to flow... On the Closed Loop, should I use 4 eductors/penductors for flow instead of 8 loclines w/ flare nozzles?
Topdown sketch:
Next question, back to flow... On the Closed Loop, should I use 4 eductors/penductors for flow instead of 8 loclines w/ flare nozzles?
Topdown sketch:
melev
Well-known member
Next step is to ask IceCap. You can also called Rainbird to find out what they say about the wiring, but I'm guessing if you peel off the black sheathing far enough, you'll see some numbers printed on the colored wiring. I'm reasonably sure they are required to print every 3' or 4' on wire for code.
calvin415
New member
I think this pretty much answers those questions about the wires, but the more I think about the watts/volts/amps, I'm leaning towards just getting some top of the line wires and running lots of them. I appreciate the thought Marc, but at this point better to be safe then sorry.
What do you think on the flow? LocLines? Penductors/Eductors?
What do you think on the flow? LocLines? Penductors/Eductors?
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