Considering RD3 50w and Mini 160...few questions

[neiltus]

Back in the hobby after 20 years...things have changed...

Setting up a Reefer 350 and considering the 50w and mini 160, will also most likely be using the 'New' Apex controller.

1) Both of the items...seem 'appropriate' for the application?
2) Connecting the Apex to the tethered controller on the 50w pump...what do I need? Does the controller just plug into the 8 power strip or is there another connector for more functions (1link, etc)?

I have searched a few threads, and see that the 50w is attached to the controller and it does not need the 10v module. I would assume this would limit me to the standard features of simple on/off and voltage drop alarms. I would just use the attached controller to set the wattage...

Regards

 

[slief]

I assume you mean the Red Sea Reefer 350 which is 275 gallons? If so, the Mini 160 would be way too small for that sized display unless you had a really light load. Instead I would suggest the Double Cone 200 or a Mini 200. I am not sure if there is enough space in your sump for the Double Cone 200 though. According the specs on the sumps skimmer chamber for the RS350, the the Double Cone 200 should fit fine as it has a footprint of 12.75 X 15.8 and the sump has a chamber size of 16.5" X 13.4". I don't see anything regarding the available height within the stand though I think it should fit fine. That skimmer is about 21.5" tall.

As for the RD3 50, those are not Apex controllable. That said, there is no good reason to use the Apex to control the return pump other than ON/OFF for maintenance purposes. It's far easier to push the button on the controller to adjust the speed of the pump as opposed to creating profiles to find the 0-10 voltage that meets the displays flow needs. Besides on a tank that size, you will may end up running the pump near full speed anyways assuming about a 60" head height with friction loss. Then again, Redsea suggests a flow rate of around 790GPH which would be closer to 30 watts. Using the RD3 controller to adjust the speed will allow you finer control to adjust the speed in order to silence the drains. You also won't have to fiddle with profiles to try to tune your drains. The pump runs silent at any speed too.

Going back to the 0-10v control. I run a pair of RD3 230's on my display. One for my return and one for my closed loop. While both are 0-10v controllable, I only use my Apex to control the closed loop. The return is a set it and forget it pump and I saw absolutely no justifiable reason to connect it to the Apex other than the power outlet. The closed loop was a different story since I have a few different profiles I use that change from day to night. During the day I run a set speed and have a flush S cycle that ramps the pump up further in conjunction with the flush cycle on my Tunze's. At night I slow the closed loop pump down which reduces my power consumption when the fish aren't active.

If you really feel you need 0-10v control over your return pump, then the RD3 80 with the separate 0-10v interface and the Apex cable would be what you would need as it is presently the only smaller pump with the 0-10v control option. Again, that feature on a return pump is a waste of money IMO on a pump that should otherwise be a set it and forget it device. You are adding unnecessary complexity and cost to your build.

 

[vhuang168]

The Red Sea Reefer 350 is 73g or 275l.


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[neiltus]

The Red Sea Reefer 350 is 73g or 275l.


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What he said.

FWIW, I have never overlooked a conversion...ha

 

[ReefClownMIA]

Considering RD3 50w and Mini 160...few questions

I have a Reefer 450, and run an oversized Double Cone 180 w/ RD3, and a RD3 80w return pump; throttled back to 62w's. I'll be running some media filters off the return pump soon.
The 80w pump is 10v controllable and have it connected to my GHL ProfiLux for speed control.

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[slief]

LOL... Yea, Marco just called me to advise me those specs were in Liters not gallons.. That'll teach me to look closer at the specs. Especially in the morning. :hammer:

OK. So the Mini 160 would be a fine choice and would be perfect for that display size. The RD3 50 would also work just fine and based on the flow requirements, should only require around 30 watts of power to drive that thing. The comments about the 0-10v still apply. :thumbsup:

 

[neiltus]

No problems sleif, I appreciate your and Marco's responses and and still getting the coffee in me.

I assume the 80w would be overkill? On both the 50w and 80w what is the lowest watt setting via the controller?

Marco-do you have an equipment listing of your tank somewhere...curious as to what heads/controller your using...

 

[ReefClownMIA]

No problems sleif, I appreciate your and Marco's responses and and still getting the coffee in me.

I assume the 80w would be overkill? On both the 50w and 80w what is the lowest watt setting via the controller?

Marco-do you have an equipment listing of your tank somewhere...curious as to what heads/controller your using...

If I recall correctly, 14w is the lowest speed setting on the 80w. I have one laying around I'll check in a bit.

As for overkill? The 50w is perfect, if you don't run reactors. If you're planning on running a reactor(s), I think 1 may be OK, but 2x may be pushing it. I first ran the 50w on my 450 - wide open, was perfect.

The 80w is not that much more expensive, for the additional possibility of flow - can always throttle is back.

My build thread on our local MAS/club forum.
http://www.swfmas.com/forum/index.php?/topic/11439-cristina-marcos-little-ocean-revision-17b/

 

[slief]

If I recall correctly, 14w is the lowest speed setting on the 80w. I have one laying around I'll check in a bit.

As for overkill? The 50w is perfect, if you don't run reactors. If you're planning on running a reactor(s), I think 1 may be OK, but 2x may be pushing it. I first ran the 50w on my 450 - wide open, was perfect.

The 80w is not that much more expensive, for the additional possibility of flow - can always throttle is back.

My build thread on our local MAS/club forum.
http://www.swfmas.com/forum/index.php?/topic/11439-cristina-marcos-little-ocean-revision-17b/

Even with 2 small media rectors (carbon & gfo) the 50 with its 2000 GPH should be sufficient. 80w would be overkill IMO for that size tank.

 

[slief]

If I recall correctly, 14w is the lowest speed setting on the 80w. I have one laying around I'll check in a bit.

As for overkill? The 50w is perfect, if you don't run reactors. If you're planning on running a reactor(s), I think 1 may be OK, but 2x may be pushing it. I first ran the 50w on my 450 - wide open, was perfect.

The 80w is not that much more expensive, for the additional possibility of flow - can always throttle is back.

My build thread on our local MAS/club forum.
http://www.swfmas.com/forum/index.php?/topic/11439-cristina-marcos-little-ocean-revision-17b/

On the flip side, the cost different between the 50 and the 80 is so close that it almost makes sense to go with the 80 over the 50 if there is space in the return compartment which there should be. It would also allow more room for growth and would insure that without a doubt, there would be more than enough flow at your disposal for even large reactors or more than 2.

 

[neiltus]

Well, got the RD3 50w and the BK 160 from Prem Aqua...

 

[slief]

Well, got the RD3 50w and the BK 160 from Prem Aqua...

I'm betting you will love both! Be sure to post some pictures once you get it all setup!

 

[neiltus]

The RD3 50w has a 25mm female output. I am going to the 16mm barb on the reefer. Suggestions on how to do this? Also, what is the thread pattern used on the pump?

 

[ReefClownMIA]

The RD3 50w has a 25mm female output. I am going to the 16mm barb on the reefer. Suggestions on how to do this? Also, what is the thread pattern used on the pump?

The 50w will come with both a 25mm and a 3/4" bushing for the union fitting.
I personally glued in a 3/4" piece of sch80 / sprinkler pipe into the bushing, the. Used Silicon from pump to RedSea plumbing.

 

[neiltus]

Ok, so you have a riser coming out a few inches of the bushing and you put a female barb on the riser to connect to the silicone? I think that is what I see in your photo.

 

[ReefClownMIA]

Ok, so you have a riser coming out a few inches of the bushing and you put a female barb on the riser to connect to the silicone? I think that is what I see in your photo.

Pretty much.
So the sprinkler pipes are usually double threaded .... Short pieces anywhere from 1" - 12" I think.

On the 50w I had a 2-4" piece, and cut it in 1/2, glued the slip into the bushing, and "threaded" the silicon hose onto the threaded pipe. Held fine!

Now on the 80w, I used a thread adapter that I glued into the 1" slip bushing, the. Used a 3" piece of the double threaded pipe and threaded that into the reducer bushing

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[slief]

Pretty much.
So the sprinkler pipes are usually double threaded .... Short pieces anywhere from 1" - 12" I think.

On the 50w I had a 2-4" piece, and cut it in 1/2, glued the slip into the bushing, and "threaded" the silicon hose onto the threaded pipe. Held fine!

Now on the 80w, I used a thread adapter that I glued into the 1" slip bushing, the. Used a 3" piece of the double threaded pipe and threaded that into the reducer bushing

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I'm going to use that method when I install the RD3 50 on Jim's system. Great idea. Probably less ID reduction than a 3/4" barbed fitting.

 

[neiltus]

The instructions say to only step down one 'size' of pipe, so this Marco's suggestion like the best route.

Plus, I have a ton of sprinkler pipe in the garage from 'fixing' my wife's driving skills.

 

[jporter]

Well, got the RD3 50w and the BK 160 from Prem Aqua...

You are going to be really impressed with your purchase. I too upgraded to the BK skimmer and return pump a few months ago. These pumps are absolutely dead silent and the build quality of it all is top notch. Plus the support when needed is outstanding. JP

 

[neiltus]

You are going to be really impressed with your purchase. I too upgraded to the BK skimmer and return pump a few months ago. These pumps are absolutely dead silent and the build quality of it all is top notch. Plus the support when needed is outstanding. JP

LOL. I have not had a tank since 95. My last two tanks had homemade skimmers with stones, MH + VHO, stands/sumps/overflow was all made by me. Ran 2-200 oceanics that way-one reef one with big ole mean trigger and Harq tusk.

Been moving with work/school for 20 years. Settled down and the kids wanted an aquarium. Wife OK'ed it with enthusiasm. Looked and wow...technology has changed. Rock has changed, livestock choices are better as well as the economics.

Start the plumbing tomorrow. Hopefully salt and RO unit will show up this weekend. Still reading on where to get rock/sand from...probably go to Premium Aq...read some decent things about their rock, also considering TBS.