Continuous feeding NPS filter feeders

I don't actually have any data, just personal observations, but you have peaked my interest in gaining data so I have all ready shot off some emails to start the process. I thank you for your post and I didn't feel you were truly questioning my dedication. I mainly posted that for others that may have read the post wrong. I have a lot of respect for you and you have always shown me the same :) That is one thing I truly enjoy about azooxanthellate keepers, we're all feeling our way around in the dark and depending on each other. It feels more like a "family effort" then that of stick keeping (oh which I am still a HUGE fan of as well, I make no bones about that one).
 
hi mike

i´m planing at the moment my feeding regime...
can you tell me how much watts does your refrigerator use?
what and how often do you feed at the moment?
alex
 
hi mike

i´m planing at the moment my feeding regime...
can you tell me how much watts does your refrigerator use?
"¢Power: 83 watts, 115V, 1.1 amps
what and how often do you feed at the moment?
The dosing rates that were set on the Bubble Magnus doser are:
6 ml daily of Shellfish Diet (1ml every 4 hrs)
12 ml daily of OysterFeast (1ml every 2 hrs)
20 ml daily of Rotifeast (.83ml every hour)
I have to adjust the settings since I am now programming the GHL 4 pump doser connected to the P3 + adding Arcti-Pods to the autofeeder instead of dosing them manually.

Mike
 
I have been experimenting with using both Shellfish Diet and Phyto-Feast. Really putting the system to the test in how much dead phyto it can handle, with the intention of producing tons of live zooplankton and bacterioplankton within the tank. I currently use the following schedule:

60 ml daily Shellfish Diet (3 ml/hr x 20 hr)
30 ml daily Phyto Feast (1.5 ml/hr x 20 hr)
10 ml daily Oyster Feast (5 ml twice daily)
1200 ml daily of frozen/powder food mix (100 ml/hr x 12 hr).
In the mixer, I use:
- 2" cube frozen cyclops
- 2" cube frozen rotifers
- 1" cube frozen ova
- 1200 ml ro/di water
- 2 teaspoons mix of FM Ultra Clam, Ultra SeaFan, Ultra Min F, Ultra Life, Spectrum Reef Micro, and 20 drops of Ultra Min D.
 
uhuru, you said in the article on your tank that you changed from sps and nps tank to solely an nps tank? Were the sps not doing well? Was it more of an interest to focus on the nps? Thanks for this thread! Learning a lot!
 
Both of the reasons you stated. SPS were not doing well and I didn't want to deal with fixing it while trying to learn about non-photo corals.
 
These no-light corals are really neat, and cheaper without lights. Wonder why more people don't do them.

-Very high flow
-Incredible Protein Skimmer
-Continues Feeding requiring refrigeration and pumps
Lots of money on equipment and food, I would think it would easily cost more than lights.

NPS LPS are much easier to take care of
 
what fantastic info! Thanks so much :)

I have question about this:
The Reef Nutrition products (most of them) have alginate in them which keeps them in suspension and acts as a minor carbon source (very minor as there is not much alginate in the media)

Does that mean that for those of us that use BioPellets and a bacteria source (I do Prodibio Biodigest) the Reef Nutrition products could cause a (mild) bacteria bloom in the display tank?
 
I am not sure I understand what this means. My main worry was the carbon source causing a bacterial bloom. I'm okay with algae.
 
what fantastic info! Thanks so much :)

I have question about this:


Does that mean that for those of us that use BioPellets and a bacteria source (I do Prodibio Biodigest) the Reef Nutrition products could cause a (mild) bacteria bloom in the display tank?

No most likely not, its so minor its not even worth mentioning really...
 
Excellent (especially since I already got the fridge on order and am bugging our local LFS to see if they can get me the Shellfish diet)
Most of my gorgos are photosynthetic but they've really been enjoying the dryfeed delivery system Mike posted. The anthias think it's great too.
Wonderful thread. Thanks so much.
 
Excellent (especially since I already got the fridge on order and am bugging our local LFS to see if they can get me the Shellfish diet)
Most of my gorgos are photosynthetic but they've really been enjoying the dryfeed delivery system Mike posted. The anthias think it's great too.
Wonderful thread. Thanks so much.

If they wont get it for you, you can order it direct.
 
IMG_0062-2.jpg

I was able to get a new Avanti 1.7 Beverage Cooler for very cheap on Ebay! :D
Before I start cutting/drilling I'd love some clarification on the plumbing hardware:
are there any check valves between the ball valve and the connectors to the PVC pipe? Do I need to worry about water that rushes through the PVC tube to go up the silicone tubes?
 
I take it you missed the venturi discussion? Check Aquabacs thread or my thread for a detailed discussion, or look a couple of pages back for a pic from Aquabacs (I think I posted a pic of mine too but its not as nice).
 
You can either use the check valve method or the venturi method. If possible use the venturi method as it is much safer, no clogging up and more consistent. If not then yes, you need a check valve at the point where the water leaves the tube and/or where it goes into the pipe.
 
Excellent. I saw venturi was mentioned earlier in this thread but I didn't understand the connection (in my mind venturi=skimmer). After reading Aquabac's thread though I totally get it. Thanks :)
 
Back
Top