Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)

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Reefski's said:
what are the titles of the DVD's? i would like to watch them too!
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Reef of Riches - not bad
Coral Reef Adventure - a bit too much soapbox stuff, but not bad
Blue Planet-Coral Seas - I don't know why, but the BBC tends to show the least amount of info when they are covering coral reefs. They even put whales in this one!
Coral Sea Dreaming - just pretty pictures

All available from amazon.

capn_hylinur said:
Your not ignorant if you can contain your farting and belching to your fish room
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I don't have a fish room. However, I do have a computer room, and a TV room, and a ...
Oh dear. There's me being ignorant again.

capn_hylinur said:
Dave, keep in mind that there are strong currents that can quickly dissipate that heat in a very large volume of natural sea water
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I think I tend to agree with the logic of this: keep stuff in a safe range for an aquarium versus keep stuff exactly the same as the open reef. Same for salinity levels, pH, etc.

Capn_hylinur, would you please address my earlier question? i.e. vodka dosing to increase bacterial levels for feeding non-photosynthetic corals. Thx.

Dave.M
 
I am surprised at the depth information as I naively assumed that the temp would drop more significantly then it appears to in reality.

Peter,
As was I, I assumed there would be a far greater spread in temps 20m+ from the 1m readings. I think the best way to use this information is to chart it over a period of a day, where possible, to see if their is much of a durnial differential and then by week, month, year. That way you will not only get a better idea over all of what these reef inhabitants will face but reach a 'Best Practices' way of determing the individual system "temp range" which everyone is looking for. I wonder if NOAA has this information which can be obtained? I saw some annual data on the site. There is also the Austrilian Equalivant which should have the info for the GBR.

I do know from diving/snorkeling in the Carribean in January that I would go through severe temp bands in the water at any given depth on the reefs off Abaco. Even at the crest it went from bath tub to great lakes-sometimes just from my head to my toes as I swam. I can imagine that while prob. not as extreem, the islands of the Pacific would also experience this type of variation due to the near deep ocean currents.

With this in mind as well as all the other temp information contained in this and other threads, articles and mags I think what we will find is that the temp you keep your system at will depend on a comprimise based on the original location of the critters you're looking at keeping, their individual tolerances for temporary temp extreems(especially if from several different global locations) and their overall health - All things most of us already try to take into account for our systems.

Chris
 
BennyFrank said:
Randy Holmes-Farley is a smart man but I think it was Earthly Mother-Nature who first suggested those parameters :thumbsup:
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msr224 said:
HAHAHAHA "ish" :lmao:
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Rybren said:
Agreed. I believe, however, that RHF is her publicist and spokesperson
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Rybren said:
I follow Randy Holmes-Farley and run with 35ppt ~1.0264-ish
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Ok kids, earlier in the thread in the discussion on the subject of keeping my live rock 'live', the suggested range was somewhere in the neighbourhood of 1.023 -1.025. Now you want me to consider ohhhhhh say around 1.0264. Is there some logic here??? Something I might understand. Also does temp range impact the target salinity goal?

Peter
 
No, temperature does not affect salinity, except for your evaporation rate, and that can be controlled somewhat with room climate and an automated make-up system.

The temperature debate is centred on the question, "Should we maintain natural sea temperatures or should we use something that has proved a bit safer in a captive environment?" For everyone who says they successfully keep their tanks at one temperature you will get someone else who can prove they successfully keep theirs at the other. For everyone who can quote some big name in the reef aquarium industry for one temperature you will get someone who can point to a professional reefkeeper at some institution that keeps it at the other.

Did you know that if you nail one of your feet to the floor you can dance in circles?

Dave.M
 
nineball said:
Ok kids, earlier in the thread in the discussion on the subject of keeping my live rock 'live', the suggested range was somewhere in the neighbourhood of 1.023 -1.025. Now you want me to consider ohhhhhh say around 1.0264. Is there some logic here??? Something I might understand. Also does temp range impact the target salinity goal?

Peter
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Sea water is 1.026 and this is where reefers keep coral dominated tanks
Invertebrates do not do well in 1.022 or below so this would be one of the reasons or logic behind the 1.023 to 1.025

If a system does not have an automatic top up system or the owner does not want to top up themselves then I keep the salt at 1.024 to allow for evaporation over a week or so.
If top up is done automatically or at least daily manually then the ideal would be 1.026 which is sea water.

Temperature does affect salt concentration indirectly. The hotter the tank the more evaporation. Water evaporates leaving the salt behind and thus increasing its concentration
Temperature also affects the dissolving rate of salt or the max level of it in solution however the margin that we keep are salt rates at and the high temp in the tank, it is not really a factor for us to be concerned with.
 
nineball said:
Ok kids, earlier in the thread in the discussion on the subject of keeping my live rock 'live', the suggested range was somewhere in the neighbourhood of 1.023 -1.025. Now you want me to consider ohhhhhh say around 1.0264. Is there some logic here??? Something I might understand. Also does temp range impact the target salinity goal?

Peter
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The best way to keep your live rock alive right now, assuming that you have cured it would be to have a fish or two in with it. When bacteria cycles it increases only to handle the existing bioload. Once that happens the level of bacteria die off only to cycle again when the bioload is increased.
Curing of rock is a one time process in your tank(hopefully) while cycling of bacteria is a constant process.
This is why you should always be careful of how much fish you add to an existing tank at one time despite its age
 
capn_hylinur said:
The best way to keep your live rock alive right now, assuming that you have cured it would be to have a fish or two in with it. When bacteria cycles it increases only to handle the existing bioload. Once that happens the level of bacteria die off only to cycle again when the bioload is increased.
Curing of rock is a one time process in your tank(hopefully) while cycling of bacteria is a constant process.
This is why you should always be careful of how much fish you add to an existing tank at one time despite its age
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I am not sure if Peter has been doing this or not, but I believe Mr. Wilson suggested using Ammonia to cycle the rock. Adding ammonia on a daily basis should allow you to build up a good bacteria population in the rock. Obviously care should be taken to add a proper amount so that creatures that are present won't be harmed.
 
Rizup said:
I am not sure if Peter has been doing this or not, but I believe Mr. Wilson suggested using Ammonia to cycle the rock. Adding ammonia on a daily basis should allow you to build up a good bacteria population in the rock. Obviously care should be taken to add a proper amount so that creatures that are present won't be harmed.
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I'm glad someone was listening :)
 
I agree with the 1.026 magic number for salinity which was covered in Ron Shimek's temperature article. I mentioned 1.025, for the same reason that people have lowered the optimal temp from 84-86 to 80-82, for a middle point. Fish and coral (and algae for that matter) metabolism rates are increased at a higher salinity.

It comes back to the point of picking a number in the safe range that you can maintain without swings to the extremes at either end. Evaportion will drive up salinity, as will balling systems and other chemical dosing practices. If you stand the risk of pushing the salinity to high, then go with lower number to allow some wiggle room. Inaccurate measurement equipment can also case problems. If you have your act together, then by all means go with 1.026. If you are still in the room, then 1.025 might be a better number for you, and I think it's a big room :)
 
All this discussion is great......

Time for some more pictures Peter...... If there are no tank updates..... the rest of the house maybe ;)
 
id say a temp of 78 and salinity of 1.025 will work real well.
if temp climbs to 80 it wont be a big deal and if it drops to 76 things are still good.
what you really want is stability not to much fluctuation in temp. the more stable the better.

vic
 
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