Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)

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IMHO, it's real world experience vs theoretical. It's nice to assume that things run at 100% but we all know that it doesn't ;).

What generally reduces bulb lifespan is the "vacuum" loss/O2 infiltration/filament/gas impurities and eventually Hg oxidation deposits at the ends, which in essence means less Hg gas/"dirty filament" to excite for UV emission for phosphor excitation.

Dimming of bulbs just means that there is less current available to the filament to excite the Hg gas in the bulb envelope. Taking into account of aforementioned real world physicalities, what I remember in my spectrometry courses (I have the txt but not enough time to double check and reference), the sputtering effect (dimmed vs 100%) is what causes the low life span of dimmed bulbs.

I'm sure that they can make a more "ideal" bulb but it's not going to be cost effective for the aquarium industry.

JM2C

I don't understand most of what you said, but I understand what you are saying :) Aquarium technology is full of things that dont quite happen, like pumps that always turn on and spin in the right direction, microchips that always process data properly, MHL ballasts that can be dimmed with a 0-10v controller, and bulbs that always fire in the correct colour temperature, or turn on for that matter. I think if these devices all worked properly, we just paintings or lava lamps:)

I'm not sure how short 0-10v dimming T5 ballasts fall short, but between reliability and bulb life, it looks like we will pass and use LED PAR 38 moonlights. It means a bit more wires and clutter, but it's manageable and at this point in time, a best practice.

Some manufacturers put LED lunar lights onboard MHL fixtures, but they run the risk of being overheated by the MHL and PCBs are more exposed to saltwater in vented MHL fixtures. Sometimes an all-in-one fixture is not the most efficient in every aspect.

Thanks for the explanation WTAC. Once again you have greatly helped narrow down a best practice. I hear the 220v German dimmable T5 0-10v ballasts are reliable, but the ATI 120v models are generic ones from China that are yet to be proven reliable. I like the Icecap 660 dimmable ballast, but they cannot be governed by a controller such as Profilux or Apex which use 0-10v control.
 
IMHO, it's real world experience vs theoretical. It's nice to assume that things run at 100% but we all know that it doesn't ;).

What generally reduces bulb lifespan is the "vacuum" loss/O2 infiltration/filament/gas impurities and eventually Hg oxidation deposits at the ends, which in essence means less Hg gas/"dirty filament" to excite for UV emission for phosphor excitation.

Dimming of bulbs just means that there is less current available to the filament to excite the Hg gas in the bulb envelope. Taking into account of aforementioned real world physicalities, what I remember in my spectrometry courses (I have the txt but not enough time to double check and reference), the sputtering effect (dimmed vs 100%) is what causes the low life span of dimmed bulbs.

I'm sure that they can make a more "ideal" bulb but it's not going to be cost effective for the aquarium industry.

JM2C



What he said :idea:
 
No, it's "Abyzz 420 Eco". The motor is manufactured by Venotech and the Pump is distributed by korallenwelt who have some level of involvement in it's design and production.

Peter can post some pics & the specs, as my laptop is still out of commission.

How's your German? :) http://www.reefnews.eu/?tag=abyzz

Hi Shawn,

I go to Korallenwelt website but can't find anything about the Abyzz pump.
Do you have any other link or contact person?

Thanks,
 
i was topping up my kalk reactor today.

was thinking,cant remember but is there any thought on using kalkwasser

vic

We are playing it by ear. If the demand exceeds the supply from the Schuran Jetstream CA reactor, then we will employ our GHL Profilux dosing pumps.

We also have room inline with the auto top-off system for a kalkwasser reactor.

I have added a bit of calcium chloride, calcium hydroxide, magnesium, sodium carbonate, and sodium bicarbonate manually thus far to encourage the coraline algae.
 
Hi Shawn,

I go to Korallenwelt website but can't find anything about the Abyzz pump.
Do you have any other link or contact person?

Thanks,

We bought ours from Torsten at Korallenwelt. Torsten has taken the ABYZZ pump and converted it into a prop pump for larger tanks that can handle the extra flow. Here is a video he has done of the smaller ABYZZ 215 with the standard volute (non-prop). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFGASFHEWL8

The pump is manufactured by Venotec. http://venotec.de/abyzz.html

I will PM you the contact info of both companies.

Shawn
 
are you guys QT'ing with cuprimine or hypo cause i would hate to see so much work dessimated by crypt

Thank you for your concern JANOtheMANO. Currently all livestock destined for the display tank are held for six weeks in the mars bars and observed for health, behavioural problems and dietary concerns. If after that time there are no health problems, and the fish have been eating properly and they are not an obvious threat to each other, and they don't have an unhealthy relationship with coral then and only then do they make it into the general population in the display tank. So no, at the moment we are not dosing and meds other than garlic with the seaweed!!!

Peter
 
Thank you for your concern JANOtheMANO. Currently all livestock destined for the display tank are held for six weeks in the mars bars and observed for health, behavioural problems and dietary concerns. If after that time there are no health problems, and the fish have been eating properly and they are not an obvious threat to each other, and they don't have an unhealthy relationship with coral then and only then do they make it into the general population in the display tank. So no, at the moment we are not dosing and meds other than garlic with the seaweed!!!

Peter

There has been quite a lot of discussion about garlic, both questioning its benefits and also raising some evidence that it may damage the livers of SW fish. Here's a link to a good thread here on RC:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=12393383&highlight=liver#post12393383
 
Brilliant work Mr Wilson and Chago and team (sorry I don't have all the names as I'm bad with names and there have been so many pages I've poured through I think my eyes have gone square). Only person I'm going to criticize is Nineball, because he's slacking on the pictures. :P You now have the burden of being a WORLD CLASS build!

I've learned a lot from this thread and if any of you want an apprentice I'll do anything short of licking he skimmer clean just to be able to learn and shake your hands.

I'm dying to find out how system maintenance is going to work out and will be following this thread almost daily. This system is worthy of it's own website (I can help with servers if you ever go that path).

Another thread reminded me of the only thing I may be able to suggest as a _possible_ best practice. Since the sun travels across the sky during the day, have you considered using light movers? Not only would it in theory reduce the # of lights you need over the tank but it would also help reduce shaded areas on the coral and potentially create a more natural environment....

If you can figure out how that works with a 24' tank then I might give it some thought. and thanks for the support and encouragement.

Peter
 
We bought ours from Torsten at Korallenwelt. Torsten has taken the ABYZZ pump and converted it into a prop pump for larger tanks that can handle the extra flow. Here is a video he has done of the smaller ABYZZ 215 with the standard volute (non-prop). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFGASFHEWL8

The pump is manufactured by Venotec. http://venotec.de/abyzz.html

I will PM you the contact info of both companies.

Shawn

Shawn.
Thanks so much for your reply and your PM.
 
Thank you for the link. I will follow it up.

Peter

garlic does work in boosting there immunity as ive been using it for approx.10yrs.
i use a odourless human grade ,in pill form that has kelp in it,

ive also found by adding garlic to the food,finicky eaters will take to the food alot quicker.

vic
 
garlic does work in boosting there immunity as ive been using it for approx.10yrs.
i use a odourless human grade ,in pill form that has kelp in it,

ive also found by adding garlic to the food,finicky eaters will take to the food alot quicker.

vic

Ya I swear by Omega 1 flake with garlic. They have a veggie brand which my tangs love and knock on wood they have both survived some nasty outbreaks in my tank. Other fish who don't eat the flake and only wanted mysis did not survive the outbreaks. Some species were fish known to be "hardy" died, as my regal tang and sailfin were sick for over a month and survived. They were the only ones in the whole tank to pull through. Now I know garlic is no cure but they were eating that for years and still were during there illness. Perhaps there immune system was strong enough to fight it off due to the garlic?????
 
Chago09 said:
Perhaps their immune system was strong enough to fight it off due to the garlic?????
Perhaps the infected fish wouldn't come near them because of their "garlic gills." ;)

Dave.M
 
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