crvz's hole in the wall

Thanks, Mike!

I hung them over the tank today under one of the pendants. Here are two shots. The first is just the LEDs. The color is just about right, though I may consider adding another white LED or two. There's a little bit of color spotlighting (where blue shows through in shadow of the white), but it's not bad, certainly reasonable, and will probably not be as bad when the lights are over a real display (these are only about 10" off the water... they'll probably end up closer to 16 when I have more space). The second picture is with both the LEDs and MH on (I neglected to kill the LED, though I likely will when I use them long term).

2010_04_10_led_only.jpg


2010_04_10_mh_plus_led.jpg


When the LEDs only are on, they run at about 87 degrees, so I think the aluminum rack will suffice if they're not being used in combination with the MH. Hopefully fans will be enough to keep temperatures down should I decide to use them together.
 
I also had some free time and started assembling my sump. I cut everything out a couple months ago, so today I fixed up the edges a little, peeled some paper, and started laying it together. Final dimensions are 62"x24"x16", with four compartments. The design allows for the following sections:

24"x16"x10" (16 gallons) skimmer section
24"x14"x9.5" (13.5 gallons) settling section (possible CR location)
24"x13"x7.5" (10 gallons) RDSB/macro algae section
24"x19"x7.25" (14 gallons) return section (this includes the bubble trap)

So functional volume is only about 54 gallons, but total capacity of about 100 gallons. I think the width is what will really help with filtration, as the water "flux" will be lower compared to a deep/narrow sump. This will help with keeping water flow laminar and hopefully be plenty for the size of setup I'm considering. But, we'll see how it plays out. ;) If history repeats itself, this will only be version 3.0, with version 3.1 coming out about 6 months after initial setup.

2010_04_10_sump.jpg
 
Looks good Chris, What thickness of acrylic are you using 3/8"? Also Can you include some more detail on the sump construction. I know there is a few threads on how to do it but i think it will help others that read your thread in the future. plus i want to see it LOL

Is it easy? I tried doing some acrylic work in the past and ive seen people do a little but isn't it hard to ensure that there is no bubbles in the seams?
 
Is it easy? I tried doing some acrylic work in the past and ive seen people do a little but isn't it hard to ensure that there is no bubbles in the seams?

It's not hard, but here are my thoughts.

Tools are critical. If you have the means to make very precise and clean cuts with acrylic, I'd dare say acrylic projects are easy. I'm talking about a killer table saw and fence, a jointer, nice router, etc. OR, you can pay the place you buy acrylic from to make the cuts, but sometimes this is cost prohibitive. The place I use only charges $20 per sheet for precise cutting (cheaper if they're just ripping it to get it in my car), so sometimes I take them up on it.

Regarding bubbles... I've never made a project without them. I'm not interested in building display tanks, and sumps don't have to be aesthetically perfect. As long as the bubbles are small, and they don't reach across the entire seam, you're fine functionally. If youre concerned, notice that nice tube of Weldon 16 in the picture above. It's a thicker solvent that can be applied like silicone over an area that leaks. I don't always need it, but sometimes it helps. Let's just say, I'm not melev. ;)

-------------------------------------------------

Regarding this project, I'll try to take more pictures. I just cut the acrylic with a circular saw and a clamp fence, which is NOT preferred. As a result, I had a lot of edge cleanup to do, and I'm sure I'll need the weldon 16 at some point. I've cut stuff on previous projects at my father-in-laws shop before (he's got a nice table saw with 60" stainless top, as well as a great jointer) and those builds were flawless.

I am using just 3/8" acrylic, which I do NOT think would be adequate if not for all the baffle support and the planned eurobrace. I'm also assembling it by starting on the side of the sump, whereas I've always started on the bottom before. I think this will be a little cleaner, but it's not without it's intricacies. Many folks recommend the pin method, but a lot of times (including on this) I don't bother. I just line the acrylic pieces up, then use a needle applicator to spit weldon 4 into the seam. I can get them pretty well filled most of the time. I'll get more images when I flip it over and stick the other side in place.
 
Thanks Chris!
Very informative. When you speak of the pin method, im assuming you put tiny pins underneath the piece you are gluing and apply the weld on and pull the pins. is this correct?
 
Sump looks great so far. Love the Led rack too. I made a 36" long sump a couple months back. I had a little trouble getting the bottom on becasue I had to get WO into all the joints and baffles and then pull all the pins. Started running out of time. Any secrets? Spose it would be easier with another person helping...just don't know if I can trust my wife with that kind of work-
 
Very nice Chris. I really like the way you added the LED's to the rack :thumbsup:
 
Thank you, Mark!

Thanks Chris!
Very informative. When you speak of the pin method, im assuming you put tiny pins underneath the piece you are gluing and apply the weld on and pull the pins. is this correct?

Yep, that's what I mean.

Sump looks great so far. Love the Led rack too. I made a 36" long sump a couple months back. I had a little trouble getting the bottom on becasue I had to get WO into all the joints and baffles and then pull all the pins. Started running out of time. Any secrets? Spose it would be easier with another person helping...just don't know if I can trust my wife with that kind of work-

No secrets, just practice and another pair of hands, if you've got them. I suck at it, to be honest. But, as long as it's water tight in the end, I don't really care. You can also focus on one end, remove pins, then work your way forward, but even then time is not on your side.
 
Hi Chris. Great build so far! I'm really enjoying it. Can you tell me your source for the aluminum tubing with the flange? That is a fantastic product!
 
Some more words on the sump for padrino. For me, this was the first sump I've built by putting the sides together first, then sticking the bottom on. The hard part in doing it this way is that you've got to do everything all at once (as veloboy points out), and you really can't shim the outsides much lest you create a gap in the middle of the tank where the baffles are supposed to attach to the bottom. I knew this going in, and seeing as I didnt have perfect cuts, it didnt turn out as cleanly as I would have liked.

The other option, which I've done in the past, is to build on the bottom. The problem with this approach is that, at some point, you're going to have two directions of seams to attach at the same time (vertical and horizontal). You can't really do that well, so i usually do one direction, let it sit for a few hours, then do the other. But you're bound to get some bleed through, and you can't fit pins in right at the interface, so you're more likely to get a leak. And when that happens, you say hurray for weldon 16.

So, bottom line, I'm still no professional acrylicist (not a word), but I'm also too cheap to pay someone for flawless work. I wish I had better documented some of the details, but I'm doing so many things at the same time it's hard to keep continuity. Today I attached the top to the sump (after ensuring all the sections where water tight at the bottom, which they were). Here it is sitting. Note; when doing this step, it's important to drill a hole in the top so that you can get air movement. I'm routering out most of the top anyways, so that is pretty much no impact. I'll get some good details of making the eurobrace.

2010_04_17_sump.jpg
 
I also spent some time adding more rock to my temp display. I probably have about 120 lbs of rock total, much of which has been "cooking" for the better part of six months. I've been adding a few pieces a week to the setup, and I took some and starting to aquascape a little. I'll probably want to order another 50-100lbs for the real display, but I'll do that slowly when it's warranted. Here's a shot of the temp display.

2010_04_17_new_rock.jpg


And a bit of eye candy while I had the camera out.

2010_04_17_aquaman_acan.jpg
 
Chris
Thanks for the update wrt to the Sump build. I think i will try and build a sump once i buy a house and figure out what size tank ill have. I would really like to buy the new dewalt track saw. Have you seen it?
http://dewalt.com/tools/saws-track-saws-dws520k.aspx

I watched a video on the uses for this wow. i think it would be a great tool for cutting acrylic. Its basically a portable table saw but has more safety aspects.
 
Nice sump! That looks to be a pretty tough project due to the large size. I've never eurobraced a sump becasue mine have been relatively small, but eurobracing adds another level of diffuclty, all your lengths have to be pretty much dead on to make good contact with the eurobrace. You got skill.
 
Nice sump! That looks to be a pretty tough project due to the large size. I've never eurobraced a sump becasue mine have been relatively small, but eurobracing adds another level of diffuclty, all your lengths have to be pretty much dead on to make good contact with the eurobrace. You got skill.


I cheat. I took some pictures, I'll show you how I did it when I get them off the camera. There's no precision, just a lot of acrylic snow.
 
Some more words on the sump for padrino. For me, this was the first sump I've built by putting the sides together first, then sticking the bottom on. The hard part in doing it this way is that you've got to do everything all at once (as veloboy points out), and you really can't shim the outsides much lest you create a gap in the middle of the tank where the baffles are supposed to attach to the bottom. I knew this going in, and seeing as I didnt have perfect cuts, it didnt turn out as cleanly as I would have liked.

The other option, which I've done in the past, is to build on the bottom. The problem with this approach is that, at some point, you're going to have two directions of seams to attach at the same time (vertical and horizontal). You can't really do that well, so i usually do one direction, let it sit for a few hours, then do the other. But you're bound to get some bleed through, and you can't fit pins in right at the interface, so you're more likely to get a leak. And when that happens, you say hurray for weldon 16.

So, bottom line, I'm still no professional acrylicist (not a word), but I'm also too cheap to pay someone for flawless work. I wish I had better documented some of the details, but I'm doing so many things at the same time it's hard to keep continuity. Today I attached the top to the sump (after ensuring all the sections where water tight at the bottom, which they were). Here it is sitting. Note; when doing this step, it's important to drill a hole in the top so that you can get air movement. I'm routering out most of the top anyways, so that is pretty much no impact. I'll get some good details of making the eurobrace.

2010_04_17_sump.jpg

Nice sump build and even nicer LED buildup!!. Wish I had the room here to build a large sump and I would try to make a custom sized one for my tank.

You must have a bunch of gas powered toys with all the gas cans in the pic LOL
 
Thanks, Phyxius! It's nice to get a little more space than we used to have, so here's hoping you land some for yourself soon.

You must have a bunch of gas powered toys with all the gas cans in the pic LOL

I was wondering if someone would point that out. Those are my, "oh crap, hurricane season" backup plan. ;) I have a 5500W generator, and those gas cans are generally empty unless we're in a risk mitigation mode. You'd be surprised how quickly they fly off the shelves once the 5 day storm track has it anywhere near here! I live about 2 miles from galveston bay at about 16 feet of elevation. So while it would take a cat 4+ storm surge to flood me, power loss is relatively credible. One day, I'd love me some natural gas generator in-line with the house electrical, but that'll probably be years from now.
 
Thanks, Phyxius! It's nice to get a little more space than we used to have, so here's hoping you land some for yourself soon.



I was wondering if someone would point that out. Those are my, "oh crap, hurricane season" backup plan. ;) I have a 5500W generator, and those gas cans are generally empty unless we're in a risk mitigation mode. You'd be surprised how quickly they fly off the shelves once the 5 day storm track has it anywhere near here! I live about 2 miles from galveston bay at about 16 feet of elevation. So while it would take a cat 4+ storm surge to flood me, power loss is relatively credible. One day, I'd love me some natural gas generator in-line with the house electrical, but that'll probably be years from now.

I was wondering if something like that was what they were for..Have a 7500 watt unit here but knock on wood except for monthly maintenance runs I have not had to use it but once for 4 hrs.
More room is in the near future but have to get daughter graduated from college next yr first :)
 
Back
Top