Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method

[RabbitKC99]

First, thanks for the information provided in this thread. I read it carefully last week before obtaining fish on Friday afternoon, which means that today was to be the first transfer. It has been written that lighting is not important. I fell asleep last night with the lights on (the bucket is in my bedroom). I turned off the lights at 6am when I awoke, then transferred the fish at 8:30am.

My questions:
1) If lighting is not important, what's the trigger for a "day" to the organisms? Simply time?
2) Did I waste a transfer?

Thank you!

PS - the transfer was really easy (not the hassle/stressor that many arguing against the method imply). I simply scooped the PVC piece that the fridmani had picked out into a container, then removed the PVC piece, leaving the fish with some water behind. I drained that water, then completed the transfer.

 

[ricwilli]

First, thanks for the information provided in this thread. I read it carefully last week before obtaining fish on Friday afternoon, which means that today was to be the first transfer. It has been written that lighting is not important. I fell asleep last night with the lights on (the bucket is in my bedroom). I turned off the lights at 6am when I awoke, then transferred the fish at 8:30am.

My questions:
1) If lighting is not important, what's the trigger for a "day" to the organisms? Simply time?
2) Did I waste a transfer?

Thank you!

PS - the transfer was really easy (not the hassle/stressor that many arguing against the method imply). I simply scooped the PVC piece that the fridmani had picked out into a container, then removed the PVC piece, leaving the fish with some water behind. I drained that water, then completed the transfer.

At one point I also forgot to turn off the light and was told to do another transfer.

 

[cbatterman]

This is from a great article by Terry Bartelme in Advanced Aquarist's Mag

"The Protomont or stage after exiting the host and prior to encysting
When trophonts mature they exit the host and shed their cilia. This is the called the protomont stage. Protomonts are usually released from the host at about 5am or shortly before daylight (Burgess & Mathews, 1994b). It has not yet been established that protomonts exit the host during the cover of darkness as a strategy for survival. The timing may be merely coincidental. Protomonts then move along the substrate and rock for 2 to 8 hours before adhering to the surface."

 

[RabbitKC99]

Thanks for the replies. Cost - a negligible amount of salt and water. Benefit - Peace of mind. Going to do the extra transfer...

 

[silverA3]

I woke up this morning to a serious breakout of ich in my tank. I will be doing the tank transfer method between a 15 gallon tank and 30 gallon tank I will be setting up. Is the 15 gallon big enough for a 4" humu trigger, 4" pufferfish, and black spine urchin for the 3 days they will be in the tank?

 

[mattsilvester]

Morning versus evening

Morning versus evening

Hi All,

So - I have started my transfer schedule but I put them in at night. Because of my work schedule I need to transfer them on Tuesday night (out of town all day Monday / Tuesday. This coincides with my night time start up.

On the assumption that the lights are let on all day, until AFTER the transfer is done, then is this going to be a problem?

I read the parasite drops off during dark then swims to the bottom and crawls around a bit..... so I am actually wondering if late evening is in fact better (to be sure we transfer the minimum number of free swimming parasites.

Thanks.

 

[mattsilvester]

I woke up this morning to a serious breakout of ich in my tank. I will be doing the tank transfer method between a 15 gallon tank and 30 gallon tank I will be setting up. Is the 15 gallon big enough for a 4" humu trigger, 4" pufferfish, and black spine urchin for the 3 days they will be in the tank?

15 sounds small - if you can stretch to buying something slightly bigger.

FYI - I am new to this TT method, but I suspect that you should let your urchin in the display. (a) they are not infected by ich, and (b) there might be a possibility that a cyst could form on the hard surface (maybe???)

 

[jm23]

Well after 4 weeks of Hypo (1.008 to 1.009) and having my PBT still covered with Ich, I decided to come back to the TTM. The only reason I didn't do the TTM was I wanted to save the time/energy/money associated with the TTM and since I had to let my DT go fallow I had the time to let hypo do its thing. Well it didn't work, so back to what has worked for me in the past. The only reason I got ich in my DT to begin with was I purchased all the livestock and LR from someone and I believe it came in on that or one of the numerous frags I had been buying before that.

To answer a question posted by someone above about going 7 days before the WC, the reason you don't is Ich will hatch after 3 days and reinfect the fish.

In regards to transferring first thing in the morning, some of our schedules don't make that practical. Is it really necessary to do this or since you transfer 72 hours later does it matter if the Ich that should have fallen off the fish the morning of transfer X doesn't get killed until transfer Y?

 

[mattsilvester]

My primary reason for choosing TTM is that it can be done without the need for filtration. I had quite a few fish that needed treating - copper would mean longer in the tank and hence a filter would be needed, especially since ammonia detoxifier cannot be used with copper.

In the 2 weeks or so that they have been in treatment I have been maturing a canister filter, seperately. This is not ideal, but better than nothing.

 

[Pny]

In regards to transferring first thing in the morning, some of our schedules don't make that practical. Is it really necessary to do this or since you transfer 72 hours later does it matter if the Ich that should have fallen off the fish the morning of transfer X doesn't get killed until transfer Y?

I've come to the same conclusion about the time of day for the transfers. Ich that would release during the night will get removed the next transfer and would not bother the fish during the extra three days.

 

[cbatterman]

I've come to the same conclusion about the time of day for the transfers. Ich that would release during the night will get removed the next transfer and would not bother the fish during the extra three days.

+1...... Since the protomonts are still moving along the substrate until as late a 1:00 p.m. it's actually better to transfer on the afternoon of the third day. By that time any protomonts that released during the night will have atached to a surface and begun to harden. Also any tomonts that attached on the first or second morning will not have had time to develop and excyst. So that means no free swimmers in the water during transfer and that is the point of TTM. Doing the transfer in the morning increases the chance that a protomont will get transfered to the new tank. It may then have time to develop and reinfect. The chances of that happening seem very low but why increase the odds for crypt's success... I always transfer in the afternoon.

 

[tmz]

I don't think the time of day is critcal .The 72 hour time frame is more so. Consider that tomites hatch at night too which might enhance free swimming populations in the early am and increase the chance of moving one with the water when you transfer the fish.

 

[mantis1437]

This thread have been very helpful to me. But I have a question on how to treat sand dwelling wrasses? Don't they get stress out without the sand in the tank?

 

[tmz]

yes, some of them do particularly leopaad wrasses. I use a small bowlfuil of sand ane toss it out after each transfer.

 

[tmz]

This thread from THE URS local forum has more detail on the methods I prefer for acclimation and quarantine with teh tank transfer method:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2185929&highlight=fish+acclimation+and+quarantine

 

[Claymat]

My new Hobbie

My new Hobbie

Ok 6 months into this hobbie I have green and purple allergies grow is that a good thing ? My Basslet fish has been hiding for the past 3 days not sure whats going on Please help.

 

[Deinonych]

Thanks to all the previous posters for this highly informative thread. I have a Kole Tang in QT right now that responded poorly to Cupramine (stopped eating), so I have decided to do tank transfer to ensure he doesn't have crypto. He has already had two treatments of Prazipro, and is very active and eating. Wish me luck!

 

[appellativo]

Good luck Deinonych!

Claymat, try starting a new thread in this forum, and give your water test parameters and also your tank's setup (equipment, how long its been set up etc.)

I am doing tank transfer and have a quick question, sort of a 'satellite' issue. Instead of leaving the DT fallow for two to three months, I decided to break down the display tank and set up a new (larger) tank with all base rock and I am cycling that using the ammonia method. My question is about the old rock. Here is its history: About 20 lbs of base rock was in the DT for six weeks before I broke it down. About 15 lbs of live rock was in there too. I took all the rock out two days ago, put it on a shelf in my garage with a fan on it to dry it out and kill all the ich. To me, losing the life and bacteria on it was less important to me than killing all the ich. I know I could have just put it in a bucket for two or three months to wait for the ich to die off but I didn't want to do that. My thought was I could dry it out to kill the ich and then put it into the new tank (which is up and cycling with some more different base rock and dry crushed coral that I got at the store) eventually. My question is how long should I let the rock dry out for to make sure the ich has dried up and died? Any guesstimates?

 

[Spar]

What powerhead are you all using for having btw 10-20g's of water in the tank transfer containers? Or a better question maybe, is what flow turnover range should I be looking at doing?

I was thinking the Maxi-Jet 400 (106gph... giving btw 5x to 10x turnover). Sufficient?

 

[NTP66]

What powerhead are you all using for having btw 10-20g's of water in the tank transfer containers? Or a better question maybe, is what flow turnover range should I be looking at doing?

I was thinking the Maxi-Jet 400 (106gph... giving btw 5x to 10x turnover). Sufficient?

I used nothing more than an airstone in the 10g tanks that I use for TTM, so I'm sure that an MJ400 would be sufficient; they're not in the tanks long enough to really warrant a lot of filtration.