Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method

Your first transfer was significantly longer than 72 hours. I would throw one more in there if it were me. You've gone through this much trouble to make sure your fish is healthy, what's another 72 hours?
 
I have a question would this be ok to do tank transfer method on 2 little clownfish, in a tun like14 inches long and about 6 inches deep. Floating in my sump so I don't have to use a heater? Is that enough room for them
 
I have a question would this be ok to do tank transfer method on 2 little clownfish, in a tun like14 inches long and about 6 inches deep. Floating in my sump so I don't have to use a heater? Is that enough room for them

I would be concerned about inadvertently transferring water from the tub to the sump. TTM should be performed in separate containers away from the DT (preferably in another room for biosecurity).
 
Your first transfer was significantly longer than 72 hours. I would throw one more in there if it were me. You've gone through this much trouble to make sure your fish is healthy, what's another 72 hours?


Good catch... I thought he was asking in general. But ya that first transfer having been around 80 or so hours should have started the process over.
 
hey guys, so i purchased anthias from LA, they come in and i put them in QT, while in QT for two weeks they all showed visible white cysts,pretty sure it was ich.. so i did the TTM, followed all directions, it went flawlessly. day 2 in fresh QT with prazipro.questions i have are 1.)after the 7 days of prazi do i put carbon in to take out medicine? do i do a big water-change? question 2.) i have second batch in TTM, (chevron,gold assesor,6 line wrasse) finishing in 10 days , would 17 days be enough to monitor the first batch(anthias)in QT? so i can get them out of QT and into display to free up the QT for second batch. or should i finish the TTM batch no.2 and put all fish in qt to monitor for three additional weeks...sorry for the confusing post,thanks!!
 
also i wish there was some kind of 100% sure way to test if fish/water have ich so i can be sure new fish even after TTM dont have it...haha wishful thinking..i have a goldrim hybrid in DT , dont want none of that in there..no sir-e.
 
hey guys, so i purchased anthias from LA, they come in and i put them in QT, while in QT for two weeks they all showed visible white cysts,pretty sure it was ich.. so i did the TTM, followed all directions, it went flawlessly. day 2 in fresh QT with prazipro.questions i have are 1.)after the 7 days of prazi do i put carbon in to take out medicine? do i do a big water-change? question 2.) i have second batch in TTM, (chevron,gold assesor,6 line wrasse) finishing in 10 days , would 17 days be enough to monitor the first batch(anthias)in QT? so i can get them out of QT and into display to free up the QT for second batch. or should i finish the TTM batch no.2 and put all fish in qt to monitor for three additional weeks...sorry for the confusing post,thanks!!

no need to run carbon to rid the tank of residual prazi. just a simple 25-33% waterchange will suffice. with prazi, it only last 3 days in the system, so really you could do the waterchange at that point rather than waiting 7 days. make sure you are dosing a 2nd round of prazi as well, ~7 days after the first dose. this will kill any fluke hatchlings that escaped the first round while in the cyst stage.

17 days post-TTM is pushing it a little, but is the minimum risk I would personally tolerate for my own tank. 4 weeks (28 days) total observed period minimum is what is necessary and 12 + 17 is 29 days... every extra day you can give the observation period the better though; don't want something to sneak up on you right when you throw them in the DT. the risk is your call.
 
no need to run carbon to rid the tank of residual prazi. just a simple 25-33% waterchange will suffice. with prazi, it only last 3 days in the system, so really you could do the waterchange at that point rather than waiting 7 days. make sure you are dosing a 2nd round of prazi as well, ~7 days after the first dose. this will kill any fluke hatchlings that escaped the first round while in the cyst stage.

17 days post-TTM is pushing it a little, but is the minimum risk I would personally tolerate for my own tank. 4 weeks (28 days) total observed period minimum is what is necessary and 12 + 17 is 29 days... every extra day you can give the observation period the better though; don't want something to sneak up on you right when you throw them in the DT. the risk is your call.

As Spar says, the issue is level of risk. If a fish were obtained from a source that runs a low level of copper in their system, it may have masked a more serious parasite such as velvet, brook, uronema. These parasites would show up towards the end of the minimum observation period.
 
Immediately. The fist transfer tank should be set up with salinity( lower sg ok ) and temp to match the bagwater. Flaot the uniopened bag for ten or fiteen minuts for final temp adjustment and then put the fish in the tank.
 
So, I have gone through most of this thread and will be doing this from now on. I received an anthias which I did not notice had any spots on it and he went straight to my tank. Sure enough, I now have the dreaded white spots. Happens I found a larger tank which will be set up this weekend. Meanwhile I purchased three 10 gallon tanks to do the TTM for all fish going forward.

My question is, do you guys use RO water for making the new batch for each tank. Asking only because I am a thrifty reefer and if they are only staying for such a short period, I would like to save my RO system water where i can. It uses up resources lol. So, could i just use tap which has been treated for chlorine etc and mix my salt mix for the transfer tanks?
 
I use RO/DI but suppose low tds tap treated for chlorine and chloramine would be ok for fish short term. It really depends on the tap water quality, though.
 
A chance the qt tank which is presumably cycled and took some time to set up will not be ich free. It's also easier to acclimate in the transfer tanks since you can set the first one up to match the bagwater.
 
A chance the qt tank which is presumably cycled and took some time to set up will not be ich free. It's also easier to acclimate in the transfer tanks since you can set the first one up to match the bagwater.

This.
 
That makes sense, but at the same time if your using this method then your tanks are ich free. If they're not then the tank transfer method is pointless because they're going to get ich once they go into the display. The assumption is that you are placing your main tank water in your QT for water changes. Once qt is over you empty disinfect and dry out then refill it. I like to observe and get them eating, but I'm understanding TMZs logic as well. They could come with ich and infect the qt. Thank you
 
The assumption is that you are placing your main tank water in your QT for water changes.


I use new salt water mixed overnight for transfer and qt water changes. This avoids not only pathogens from the main tanks but also degradeable material which can contribute to ammonia production in a tank without the surface colonies of ammonia oxidizing bacteria in the main tank.

BTW, fish eat well in transfer tanks ,ime. I like to use a bubble up sponge filter which gathers up some foods ;some of the fish ,like mandarins ,like to peck at those.
 
removing all fish from DP tank

removing all fish from DP tank

so i'm the lucky one., after 6 years of reefing, bang, ich.

I got some new fish (and have to admit, have never used a Q tank)

now, my powder blue is gone, as well as sailfin and tommy tang.

locking at this transfer treatment, I wonder if I should take all fish out of the DP tank and put them in a 3 day cycle.

question is, what happens with the parasites in my tank when it is empty from fish?

do thy die off eventually ? --- not that all my fish are free of it in 20+ days, but thy get it from whatever is still sleeping in my tank

other question would be is where douse the parasite come from ?

I know thy say stress and such is a factor (to make it bloom) but where douse it start?

Se suppose I do the transfer treatment, even if it would be for 30 days, and assume thy are all free, than get new fish (Tommy, powder blue and sailfin)

I don't put the new fish in the DP tank, but also in a 3 day treatment for 30 days (afterwards considering them free)

is there any remote chance that ich would still get in my tank.

in other words, there are always ich parasites in sleeping mode somewhere that don't die

or in other words, a fish fully free of ich can never get ich again from within a system that douse not change / receives new (external) fish ?
 
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