Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method

[snorvich]

I have 7 fish(Marine Beta, 2 Clowns, 2 Blue Chromis, Firefish & Hippo Tang) end of week #7 @ Hypo 1.009 in a 75 gal w/sump w/ Bio Balls, Glass bottom w/ PVC. All feeding and happy. The only fish with cysts was the HT and they all fell off after 1 week @ hypo.
Cysts showed up on HT @ week 5 and have not left. No other swimmers show signs of ich and all play nice!
I have decided the TTM is the way for me to go.

Questions?
Containers? I am thinking about 2) Plastic Totes (I have not yet purchased, so size recommendation please)

I use 20 gallons which should be enough for your fish

The way I am reading this, I understand that NO filtration is necessary?

Correct, but using Prime or some other ammonia relief is desirable

What would the recommended WC schedule be in the 4 day cycle?

None. Throw out the water in each tank after the transfer and clean with a mild bleach/water mix, rinse, dry. Fill with new water for each new transfer

I figure i could make up a large batch of water so there is more consistency in the quality dispensed.

Exactly

I would get 2 separate air stone & hose & use the same air pump. (airstone held inplace by PVC) Replace airstone every round?

Yes, you want NO contamination

I have 2 korolia 1400's & a korolia #1 (just came off of day tank) or are those too big for water movement?

You will not really need water movement

My ambient air temp is 76-78' do i need heaters and if so, what watt?

If your ambient temperature is consistent, no heat required.

Containers to be lit by a clamp on CCFL 5K lighting not required BUT the tanks should not be in total darkness.
Am I missing anything?

Oh, PLEASE... how do you catch fish with Tupperware??? I have always netted my fish and have seen no adverse effects?

When about to do a transfer, drain the water down very low, then scoop them up.

thanks
Drew

 

[KJoFan]

You can try a tupperware container full of sand.

Yeah, that's what I would do in a typical QT setup, or after the TTM is over with. But I'm thinking the only real way to go about it throughout the TTM method is new sand with each transfer, correct? The container itself will be cleaned like the tank and equipment but the sand would have to be fresh each time is my thought. Tell me if I'm off base here.

 

[yachtdr22]

Hi Steve,

I have 2) 100Q Igloo Coolers?

Ammonia;
I currently have a Ammonia badge on my HT, but it does not seem accurate.
How often should I test? is 1x a day acceptable? should I just do a 5gal WC daily? or is a WC needed or just use some Prime?

At what salinity should this be done ?

thanks
Drew

 

[snorvich]

Yeah, that's what I would do in a typical QT setup, or after the TTM is over with. But I'm thinking the only real way to go about it throughout the TTM method is new sand with each transfer, correct? The container itself will be cleaned like the tank and equipment but the sand would have to be fresh each time is my thought. Tell me if I'm off base here.

You are totally correct. New sand, clean container is a requirement. NO contamination between tanks. Good catch, I should have been more explicit.

 

[snorvich]

Hi Steve,

I have 2) 100Q Igloo Coolers?

Ammonia;
I currently have a Ammonia badge on my HT, but it does not seem accurate.
How often should I test? is 1x a day acceptable? should I just do a 5gal WC daily? or is a WC needed or just use some Prime?

At what salinity should this be done ?

thanks
Drew

Ammonia badge should be correct, but you can test daily and I would use Prime or equivalent. No water change required. I personally use whatever my DT SG is, which is 1.026

 

[yachtdr22]

Ammonia badge should be correct, but you can test daily and I would use Prime or equivalent. No water change required. I personally use whatever my DT SG is, which is 1.026

Thanks again Steve...

The swimmers are currently @ 1.009
Should I take 3 or so days to bring them back up to 1.025, then do the TTM?
or can I start the first transfer up say .002 (first transfer tank @ 1.011 then the 2nd transfer @ 1.013 and up 2 points or so at a time?

Drew

 

[snorvich]

You could raise it gradually but going up is more critical than going down. You could also just use water the same SG as what you currently have.

 

[yachtdr22]

You could raise it gradually but going up is more critical than going down. You could also just use water the same SG as what you currently have.

Mr Snorvich, Steve,

Once again, thanks for the info...

I have just been back reading and my humble gratitude for you and the others that help us keep our swimming friends (and non-swimmers) healthy..

I am starting TTM in the morning...
I have been plotting on my calender and the kids will be out of prison on week # 9 of DT Fallow. I will need to re-acclimate back up to 1.026 from 1.009. They will be in a 75g reef w/Bio Balls for QT. would you recommend a procedure?
I will be taking down the QT and completely cleaning it as it still has ich, so the swimmers will be going into a tank that has be back up for 7 days @ 1.009.
your thoughts?

thanks again...
Drew

 

[yachtdr22]

PS... is there something that i should treat the fish with while waiting the few days to acclimate? a dip or copper or anything?

 

[snorvich]

I always treat all new fish with Prazipro, but after tank transfer. One way that people go up with SG is to top off with salt water rather than RO water. Remember going up with SG must be slow as fish are more sensitive to SG increasing.

 

[penguino]

Tank for transfer

Tank for transfer

I saw reference to changing the sand. Is sand necessary. I assumed it was an empty bottom tank or bucket. Obviously they go into the substrate for their lifecycle but if there is no substrate???

So, do I put sand in the buckets? Do I throw the sand out after or ?wash/bleach the sand?

Thanks.

 

[snorvich]

I saw reference to changing the sand. Is sand necessary. I assumed it was an empty bottom tank or bucket. Obviously they go into the substrate for their lifecycle but if there is no substrate???

So, do I put sand in the buckets? Do I throw the sand out after or ?wash/bleach the sand?

Thanks.

Do NOT use sand. The only time it was mentioned was for leopard wrasses and then only in a tupperware container, and the sand would need to be discarded after each transfer.

 

[houser]

My first TT experience went very well, so I'm utilizing it again. This time I started out with a small pair of angels into a bucket with same setup as listed earlier in the thread. But within a few hours I moved them over to a ten gallon for more space. Not a lot more, but it helped quell some Initial aggression issues. First transfer this morning, fish look great, low stress, no aggression, eating well...

What do you think about adding a quick FW dip in between transfers? I might start adding that.

 

[snorvich]

My first TT experience went very well, so I'm utilizing it again. This time I started out with a small pair of angels into a bucket with same setup as listed earlier in the thread. But within a few hours I moved them over to a ten gallon for more space. Not a lot more, but it helped quell some Initial aggression issues. First transfer this morning, fish look great, low stress, no aggression, eating well...

What do you think about adding a quick FW dip in between transfers? I might start adding that.

A fresh water dip adds no value. After tank transfer is complete treating with Prazipro is always a great idea.

 

[houser]

I believe it can easily add some value for knocking off villains during the two wks they're in TT. Help lighten the load a little and prevent them from reproducing. Before moving to phase 2 of treatment, of course.

 

[snorvich]

I believe it can easily add some value for knocking off villains during the two wks they're in TT. Help lighten the load a little and prevent them from reproducing. Before moving to phase 2 of treatment, of course.

It will remove flukes. It will have no effect on ich. I suggest always treating with Prazi after TT.

 

[houser]

Yes Steve, I knew I was diluting the main point of this thread. I just hate flukes as well!

 

[snorvich]

Yes Steve, I knew I was diluting the main point of this thread. I just hate flukes as well!

Which is why my preferred protocol involves TT followed by observation and prazi in a QT tank. In general, Prazi is easy and has no negative consequences.

 

[Art71]

I have an ich outbreak in my 265 tank. I am planning to do your suggested transfer method but I have some questions. I hope you can answer me.

1. First problem I have is that I have a lot of large size fish. I have about 25 fish in the DT right now. Some of the fish are: Blue Hippo tang 6", Yellow tang 5", 3 Clown fish, Sailfin Tang 6", Marine betta 6", Fox face 7", Vlaminggi tang 6", multiple wrasses, gobies, damsels and angel fish. I have plenty of Rubbermaid 35 gallon containers at home. Do you think I can use these? I think it would be too much to keep them in one container. How many containers do you think i should divide them to?

2. Is lighting important? I don't have may lights so would it be ok to keep them without lighting? Would this affect the lifecycle of the ich?

3. I am reading that if i leave the DT fallow for 90 days or so the ick would go away. Is this also true if i leave all the coral and inverts in the DT without any treatment. I have snails, shrimp, crabs, starfish, sea urchins etc. I read that ick doesn't affect them but just want to make sure. I am pretty sure the answer is yes but just want to confirm.

4. After the transfers are done i believe i have to keep the fish in a QT for the rest of the time until the DT stays fallow for 90 days. Again what size tank do you think would be appropriate for this many fish? I have a 40 gallon QT right now do you think it would be enough?

I have close to $2000 worth of fish so I want to keep all of them alive as much as I can. If you have any other suggestions I would like to hear them please.

Thanks

 

[snorvich]

I have an ich outbreak in my 265 tank. I am planning to do your suggested transfer method but I have some questions. I hope you can answer me.

1. First problem I have is that I have a lot of large size fish. I have about 25 fish in the DT right now. Some of the fish are: Blue Hippo tang 6", Yellow tang 5", 3 Clown fish, Sailfin Tang 6", Marine betta 6", Fox face 7", Vlaminggi tang 6", multiple wrasses, gobies, damsels and angel fish. I have plenty of Rubbermaid 35 gallon containers at home. Do you think I can use these?

Yes. Use prime or other ammonia reduction agent, separate the fish into manageable groups.

I think it would be too much to keep them in one container. How many containers do you think i should divide them to?

2. Is lighting important? I don't have may lights so would it be ok to keep them without lighting? Would this affect the lifecycle of the ich?

Lighting is not important. The important part of the life cycle is that the initial cyst needs to drop off to reproduce

3. I am reading that if i leave the DT fallow for 90 days or so the ick would go away. Is this also true if i leave all the coral and inverts in the DT without any treatment. I have snails, shrimp, crabs, starfish, sea urchins etc. I read that ick doesn't affect them but just want to make sure. I am pretty sure the answer is yes but just want to confirm.

Yes. None of those can act as a host for cryptocaryon irritans

4. After the transfers are done i believe i have to keep the fish in a QT for the rest of the time until the DT stays fallow for 90 days. Again what size tank do you think would be appropriate for this many fish? I have a 40 gallon QT right now do you think it would be enough?

No, it would not. However, one strategy is to keep transferring them until the 63 (90 is not required) days has expired

I have close to $2000 worth of fish so I want to keep all of them alive as much as I can. If you have any other suggestions I would like to hear them please.

Remember to clean the buckets once transfer is done and then they can be reused

Thanks