lagatbezan
Active member
I believe having the equipment dry for 24 hours is what kills it.
Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method
- Thread starter snorvich
- Start date
My assumption is both methods are effective, but the drying also makes sure all bleach residue has evaporated. I don't think you want to trust air drying alone, as there can always be that hidden moisture that doesn't dry. Based on what others have also recommended as effective, I use vinegar to sterilize as I find bleach a little more dangerous to work with.
I use diluted vinegar but either will work if done correctly.
greech
New member
I have a question about where to go once the TTM/QT/fallow period is over. I always thought that corals could not transfer ich but that seems to be false. Assuming I QT every animal going forward, how do I know that my new frags, shrimp, etc. are ich free? Are you supposed to QT all new frags for 8 weeks so that any possible ich dies off without having fish to survive?
I don't have a frag system that will keep corals alive (or colored) for that period of time. Am I SOL for new ich free corals?
I don't have a frag system that will keep corals alive (or colored) for that period of time. Am I SOL for new ich free corals?
Spar
New member
Yes, for absolute assurance, you need to QT all non-fish (coral and shrimp included) separately. And as you stated just keeping them away from fish (fallow) is what is necessary. But keep them this way for 10-12 weeks to ensure that all cysts have had a chance to hatch given they are known to stay encysted for 72 days.
Spar
New member
A simple 10g tank with Par38 bulb will suffice. That is what I use and my coral keeps color during the fallow period. I understand that space is a concern, but the alternative is taking the risk unfortunately.
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Pigpen17
New member
I'm also very curious about this. I have heard a ton of different stuff. First and foremost, if you're at your local fish store and you're buying a coral from the same system that houses fish you're taking a risk. i'm still not sure if sites like live aquaria and divers then have isolated coral and invertebrate systems. I would like to say that those sites and reef cleaners are trusted sites. But yeah if you're walking into Petco and walking out with a coral you're taking a Big risk.
Am I off-base here?
Am I off-base here?
I have a continuously running 10 gallon fishless QT reef that contains a cheap HOB filter for flow (with carbon), heater, nano powerhead, par 38 bulb. I add coral/rocks/inverts in 12 week cycles. Enough time for any possible ich to disappear.
This is what works for me. It cost about $170 to set up. I feed the tank daily, add algae sheets rubber banded to a rock each week, take care of any pests, etc.
This is what works for me. It cost about $170 to set up. I feed the tank daily, add algae sheets rubber banded to a rock each week, take care of any pests, etc.
Spar
New member
at minimum the entire period of time should be 4 weeks (including the TTM 12 days). the general recommended period is 4-6 weeks.
But the longer you wait the safer your DT will be. You will see many that observe for a total of 8 weeks. if in no hurry to move them over to the DT, then may as well wait it out.
I, and many others, can tell you how scary velvet is! if that made it into my DT, I would quit the hobby in a heartbeat... it isn't worth that negative motivation!
But the longer you wait the safer your DT will be. You will see many that observe for a total of 8 weeks. if in no hurry to move them over to the DT, then may as well wait it out.
I, and many others, can tell you how scary velvet is! if that made it into my DT, I would quit the hobby in a heartbeat... it isn't worth that negative motivation!
Steve, I hope this is the proper thread for this question, as it relates to the QT for observation after the TTM is complete. What equipment do you keep in this tank? Should I provide a substrate and some snails for detritus, or just maintain the bare bottom empty tank with HOB filter, heater, small powerhead and a couple pieces of PVC? I plan for the fish to live here for 4 weeks after TTM is complete for observation of other afflictions.
Thanks in advance, ZB.
Thanks in advance, ZB.
Spar
New member
^^this
keep it simple. keep up with water changes and keep an eye out on ammonia. the seachem ammonia badges work well for this.
i personally just use airstones instead of a powerhead, but won't hurt anything. just make sure isn't too strong for the fish.
i didn't realize the 4 week period included the 12 day ttm.
i got the kole tang on may 9, he went directly into qt. after 3 weeks or so, noticed what i *thought* was ich spots (tried a couple of days of cupramine but couldn't get the therapeutic level where it needed to be) and now i think it was actually lympho. started ttm on june 8. there is only 1 spot left, on the bottom of his tail fin. did my last tt yesterday and started using selcon last night.
just so i'm clear, please tell me how many more weeks this guy has before i can put him in my dt.
thanks!
