Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method

[snorvich]

It won't matter if the water is cycled or not. The fish are only allowed to stay in the tank or tub for no longer than three days. Thus there's no real ammonia that builds up over the three days and if there is you use ammonia detoxifier.

Have you read the thread?

And you cannot use contaminated water for the transfers.

Correct. Since you are not using copper on tank transfer, you can add Prime on day 2 to insure no ammonia issues.

 

[LA ICK WARRIOR]

Yea i read the thread but i didmt see any specifics on the water being cycled. I am using tap water with the appropriate prime dosages. Was just worried cuz tap water sucks and prime may not be good enough.

 

[jbvdhp]

Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method

Yea i read the thread but i didmt see any specifics on the water being cycled. I am using tap water with the appropriate prime dosages. Was just worried cuz tap water sucks and prime may not be good enough.

Hmm... I suppose in a pinch tap MAY be ok, but why not get them conditioned to your DT water any way (i.e. If your dt uses RODI then use RODI). Do you use RODI normally? I know it may seem wasteful, but it's not to save the life of our fish.

I must have spent hundreds on RODI for the past few months, making my water store guy richer. He sells it for $.25/gallon. For the $2.50 or $3.75 per transfer per batch of fish, it's worth it to me. I skimp back on the salt if anything.

I would just RODI if I were you, eliminate one other thing from the equation that could possibly go wrong.

Good luck to you and I hope your fish are cured!

 

[snorvich]

I would not use tap water for any aquarium purpose; very simply it adds a dimension that is not controllable.

 

[LA ICK WARRIOR]

Thanks im gonna buy one soon. Ive always used tap with prime because all of the claims it makes about taking all the bad out

 

[Spar]

Thanks im gonna buy one soon. Ive always used tap with prime because all of the claims it makes about taking all the bad out

all Prime takes out is chlorine and ammonia. tap water has a plethora of other materials in it. just view your cities tap water report to see.

with RO/DI water you know you are starting out with just H2O, and then adding in only what is in the salt blend.

regardless, good move on getting a RO unit. a very important part of the hobby. not just in health for fish and coral, but also in battling unwanted algae.

 

[anarchyx914]

Hi Guys,

I just found this thread and I am very intrigued. I have my whole display tank in a 55 gal QT right now. Had a bad ich outbreak and it took out half my fish.

All of the fish are now eating great and happy as can be, however my tangs still breathe rapidly. They eat like tanks (nori, mysis, etc) but the heavy breathing has me worried. I have tried both Cupramine and CP and they still breathe heavy.

I was wondering what I could use to do TTM on the cheap? I only have the one 55gal QT and I feel like using 2 55gal's for TTM would be expensive for salt usage.

I read some people using rubber-made tubs... Is there any clear ones that work well for TTM that are fish safe? I was thinking of getting maybe a maximum 20-25 gallon one for TTM. I already have 2 heaters and 2 HOB aquaclear filters. I have stability and Prime ready to go.

I guess I am just trying to have avoid spending money on another 55gal tank and or (2) 29 gal tanks.

Also, I am interested in doing TTM + PraziPro to make sure I cover several basis before moving them back to display. When doing TTM + Prazi, do you basically just Put Prazi in every tank and then everytime they transfer they are being moved back into a fresh batch of Prazi?

To Summarize:

1. What brand tupperwares are safe? I am looking for something clear around 20-25 gallons.
2. What filtration is needed if any? I have read people just use a powerhead + heater. Is this acceptable? I have dual HOB Aquaclears. I imagine I would just run these dry with no media in them.
3. If I want to also dose PraziPro, Would I just dose it in each tank at equal levels? If I remember correctly Prazi only needs 7 days to be effective.

My 300 gallon Display tank has been cycling for past 2 weeks and has been offline for 3 months.. New Sand, all rock dried and 57-watt Aquaclear UV. Getting anxious to get these guys back in their home.

 

[jbvdhp]

^I've been using Sterilite tubs from Walmart, and they do sell clear ones. They have 45 gals long ones too. With wheels!!! All I use is Pvc, heater and air stone. No other filtration. For prazi, the pros here have suggested doing at the second and fourth transfers and you get your two rounds of prazi, if needed.

 

[anarchyx914]

^I've been using Sterilite tubs from Walmart, and they do sell clear ones. They have 45 gals long ones too. With wheels!!! All I use is Pvc, heater and air stone. No other filtration. For prazi, the pros here have suggested doing at the second and fourth transfers and you get your two rounds of prazi, if needed.

Awesome. I think I will grab two tonight. Hoping to get away with doing two smaller tubs like 25gal each or something. Doing (4) 55gallon water changes in like 2 weeks is alot of water lol..

 

[jbvdhp]

Awesome. I think I will grab two tonight. Hoping to get away with doing two smaller tubs like 25gal each or something. Doing (4) 55gallon water changes in like 2 weeks is alot of water lol..

Yeah tell me bout it....

I've gone thru a Box and a half of reef crystals thru this whole ordeal. YEESH.

 

[anarchyx914]

Yeah tell me bout it....

I've gone thru a Box and a half of reef crystals thru this whole ordeal. YEESH.

I might switch back to reef crystals. I have been using the RedSea stuff but its expensive.

is it usually a big ordeal to switch salts? Do you have to ween fish off of them or anything when switching brands? lol.

 

[Maxxingout]

I just went through my 2nd TTM, if anything will stop me from buying fish, this will. Not only the work but the rodi water and amount of salt! I know I need to go slow anyhow adding fish but at this point I don't think I'll have any worries about that.

 

[andy01748]

I just went through my 2nd TTM, if anything will stop me from buying fish, this will. Not only the work but the rodi water and amount of salt! I know I need to go slow anyhow adding fish but at this point I don't think I'll have any worries about that.

If you are planning or doing TTM and know your DT is ich free, you can use DT water as the source water for TTM. In effect, it is equivalent of doing water changes in the DT (since you will replace the removed DT water with fresh made saltwater). Assuming you do routine water changes in your DT, net effect is it doesn't have to use a lot of extra salt or RODI!

 

[andy01748]

I just went through my 2nd TTM, if anything will stop me from buying fish, this will. Not only the work but the rodi water and amount of salt!

Starting out in this hobby a year and a half ago, I lost several hundred dollars of livestock due to an ich outbreak, which dwarfs the cost of salt and RODI for doing TTM! Based on advice here at RC, I am now a convert to using TTM and quarantine before adding new livestock to my DT. I found the first time doing TTM to be pretty intensive and a lot of work, but after doing it a couple of times, it now seems like just a minor inconvenience. Once you have your TTM equipment set up and ready to go it is not that much effort. In my opinion, the payback of knowing you have significantly reduced your chance of spreading disease throughout your system is well worth the additional work in the beginning.

 

[Deinonych]

I just went through my 2nd TTM, if anything will stop me from buying fish, this will. Not only the work but the rodi water and amount of salt! I know I need to go slow anyhow adding fish but at this point I don't think I'll have any worries about that.

Interesting. I find TTM to be the least stressful, as it eliminates all the guesswork from treatment. It also takes only 12 days. The other treatments require at least 30 days plus observation. It's a little extra work, but peace of mind makes it more than worth it.

 

[rishu_pepper]

About to start TTM on my hippo tang, first time I'm going through this so just want to make sure I have all my questions answered:

1) Do I use airstone/airline tubing only once then toss them? Or can I wait for them to dry out for the subsequent transfers?

2) Prime on 2nd day of each transfer: Yay or nay?

3) What should my feeding schedule be like? I have NLS pellets, algae wafer, nori, algae pellets, PE mysis.

4) During transfer, since nets are discouraged, should I just drain most of the tank and use a tupperware to transfer the fish? What if there is residual water that transferred?

5) Is PVC necessary or optional (I have some fittings lying around)?

I will be using two 10g tanks.

Thank you for your help.

 

[NTP66]

About to start TTM on my hippo tang, first time I'm going through this so just want to make sure I have all my questions answered:

1) Do I use airstone/airline tubing only once then toss them? Or can I wait for them to dry out for the subsequent transfers?

2) Prime on 2nd day of each transfer: Yay or nay?

3) What should my feeding schedule be like? I have NLS pellets, algae wafer, nori, algae pellets, PE mysis.

4) During transfer, since nets are discouraged, should I just drain most of the tank and use a tupperware to transfer the fish? What if there is residual water that transferred?

5) Is PVC necessary or optional (I have some fittings lying around)?

I will be using two 10g tanks.

Thank you for your help.

1. Yes - use once and toss the tubing and air stones

2. That's what a lot of us do. Works well

3. I fed pellets once/daily (at night) to keep the water clean

4. You could try that, but a plastic colander works exceptionally well for this purpose. Walmart sells them for about $6 (mine is a Mainstays green and has 3 sizes). Zero water transfer this way

5. Optional, but it gives the fish a place to hide if need be. PVC is easily cleaned and cheap, so it's worth throwing in there

 

[rishu_pepper]

1. Yes - use once and toss the tubing and air stones

2. That's what a lot of us do. Works well

3. I fed pellets once/daily (at night) to keep the water clean

4. You could try that, but a plastic colander works exceptionally well for this purpose. Walmart sells them for about $6 (mine is a Mainstays green and has 3 sizes). Zero water transfer this way

5. Optional, but it gives the fish a place to hide if need be. PVC is easily cleaned and cheap, so it's worth throwing in there

Thank you sir. I feel better equipped with the knowledge now. Now I just hope the hippo will pull through, ich got him pretty bad, but he's my favourite so I am praying he will get pass this safely. Got an 8 footer waiting for him when he's done.

 

[bc1281]

About to start TTM on my hippo tang, first time I'm going through this so just want to make sure I have all my questions answered:

1) Do I use airstone/airline tubing only once then toss them? Or can I wait for them to dry out for the subsequent transfers? let them dry out and use again.

2) Prime on 2nd day of each transfer: Yay or nay? Yes. unless your testing for ammonia.

3) What should my feeding schedule be like? I have NLS pellets, algae wafer, nori, algae pellets, PE mysis. Whatever your normal is. Don't overfeed.

4) During transfer, since nets are discouraged, should I just drain most of the tank and use a tupperware to transfer the fish? What if there is residual water that transferred? That will work.

5) Is PVC necessary or optional (I have some fittings lying around)?In my opinion its necessary. They need a place to hide if needed.

I will be using two 10g tanks.

Thank you for your help.

 

[rishu_pepper]

Having an extremely hard time catching the hippo. He just hides behind the rock work. I may have to wait one more week, that's when I can drain the tank. I worry about him because the ich symptoms look pretty lousy on him now.