Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method

[tmz]

Fish that survive an infestation deveop partial immunity according to sutdies . This is why some are pursuijng vacines so far without success.They are still susceptible to infestations of the soft tissues of the nose, mouth and gills wh8ich keeps a low density of parasites going. Often spots are visble after stress events with such fish. More often any new fish even one that is qaurantined properly will be hit by the parasites sparking an outbreak. One survivor can encyst and produce hundreds. A week or two later those hundreds mulitply by hundreds and so on.

 

[Halo_003]

I'm QTing a pygmy Cherub angel right now. I'm planning to do my first transfer in the morning tomorrow. It's about 3/4" long, so very small. These are my two containers for lack of a better term.

Tank 1:
10G tank
Aquaclear 30 HOB filter (just floss)
Rio 180+ (~200GPH I think) pump
Hydor 75W heater

Tank 2:
Rubbermaid 14G tub, filled with about 9G of water (mixing currently for the transfer)
Jager 75W heater
(800GPH mixing pump, not staying when the fish goes in tomorrow)


Question 1: Desk lamp covers both. Now.... For cleaning them what do you suggest? I know bleach is the best way to clean them, but as far as the actual action do you add bleach to the water, or do you empty the tank of water, then fill it with tap and add bleach, turn pump/HOB on to make sure you get everything?

Question 2: Since I don't have a second circulation powerhead small enough to put in the rubbermaid would it be acceptable to use a piece of airline with a weight instead? I'd like to avoid an airstone if possible so that I don't have a ton of salt creep.

Question 3: I plan to get another of the tubs set up so that I can use the 10G as my observation tank when TTM is complete. Would it be okay to transfer out of the 10G tomorrow, clean it with bleach, let it dry, use a second rubbermaid to finish TTM? When TTM is complete I would then move the angel to the 10G for additional observation.


Question 4: Does this timeline look good? Are the dates all right? I think I understood correctly but I just want to double check.
Timeline:
Purchased
01/27 -> into 10G
01/30 -> into 14G Rubbermaid #1 - treat with PraziPro
02/02 -> into 14G Rubbermaid #2
02/05 -> into 14G Rubbermaid #1 - treat with PraziPro
02/08 -> into cleaned 10G with a cycled sponge in the HOB

I plan to use PraziPro because it seems to have stringy poop but I can't say with 100% certainty because it is amazingly shy, and hides whenever I approach.

This is my first time actually using TTM on a fish. I treated my clown with Hypo. Do you have any more suggestions or advice? Thanks!

Edit: it has not shown any symptoms of crypto, but I don't want to risk it.

 

[tmz]

Stringy poop could indicate intestinal parasites. Prazi may help. Often that's a tough condition to treat. My Cherub angels isn't shy and can be aggressive at times..

I don't use bleach , thorough drying is all that's necessary to kill the cysts.

 

[Halo_003]

Sounds good, drying works for me as it's a lot less work lol. I wasn't 100% sure on the poop but I transferred him to the 14G rubbermaid 01/30 @ 10AM. When I got him the bag SG was 1.015, so for the first few days in the 10G tank SG was at 1.015, and instead of topping off I let evap run, and it raised the SG to 1.018 by the time of the next transfer(yesterday, 01/30). I think this is a good method for very slowly raising the SG by about .001 per day, ultimately I want the final observation QT running at 1.026 like my reef is so I plan to continue.

Also I did treat with Prazi, so it will stay in Prazi treated water until 02/02 when it goes to the next tub.

Timeline update: (partially for me!)
01/27 -> into 10G DONE
01/30 -> into 14G Rubbermaid #1 - treat with PraziPro CURRENT
02/02 -> into 14G Rubbermaid #2
02/05 -> into 14G Rubbermaid #1 - treat with PraziPro
02/08 -> into cleaned 10G with a cycled sponge in the HOB

 

[Halo_003]

Update: Angel is doing well, no visible symptoms at all now including weird poop.

Timeline update: (partially for me!)
01/27 -> into 10G DONE
01/30 -> into 14G Rubbermaid #1 - treat with PraziPro DONE
02/02 -> into 14G Rubbermaid #2 CURRENT (in the AM)
02/05 -> into 14G Rubbermaid #1 - treat with PraziPro
02/08 -> into cleaned 10G with a cycled sponge in the HOB

 

[gt5500]

This may have been covered, apologies if it has, say I buy a fish on a Saturday afternoon would it be acceptable to do the first transfer on tues morning? for example-
Fish in 14:00 Sat
1st transfer 7:00 Tues

Is this a problem?

 

[Spar]

no problem at all, and what I do. just count the saturday as a full Day 1, even if you bought it at night.

all that matters is that all the parasites have jumped off by the time you do the final transfer. since all do within 7 days anyway, even if you only did transfers up to Day 9, you should still be fine. The last transfer is an insurance transfer really.

 

[snorvich]

nThe last transfer is an insurance transfer really.

The most critical issue is no cycle greater than 72hours. But insurance is good.

 

[LiMaZoo]

I plan on making a batch of water in a 30 gallon Brute container for all the water needed to run a cycle of TTM. I am curious how long people age their water for. I read some posts that say overnight and some that say 24 hrs to adjust the pH. I do small water changes about every other day in my reef tank and age for only a couple hours with no incident but I know that is way too short for large WCs or TTM. Is there a generally accepted minimum/maximum/sweet spot? Thanks for the help!

 

[jbvdhp]

I just do it a day in advance.

 

[Deinonych]

I just do it a day in advance.

+1

I make water a day or two in advance and then make sure it is fully aerated in the tank (via powerhead and/or HOB filter) overnight.

 

[LiMaZoo]

Thanks! That's how I'll do it then.

 

[gt5500]

How long do people recommend to QT inverts and corals? obviously the TTM is not going to work on them so I'm guessing you'd need the full 72 days but obviously that's going to be hard with any tricky species.

 

[Deinonych]

How long do people recommend to QT inverts and corals? obviously the TTM is not going to work on them so I'm guessing you'd need the full 72 days but obviously that's going to be hard with any tricky species.

Correct...72 days. I do this with all inverts in a dedicated QT with sand, LR, T5 lighting, powerhead and skimmer. Haven't had any major issues with SPS, although I keep the "easier" species like Pocillopora, Montipora, Pavona, Seriatopora etc. Acros might be a challenge.

 

[kirsto71]

I am doing tank transfer now for my fish having previously used hypo I am excited with a potentially simpler process. I am also keen to use it to ensure fish such as mandarins are not carrying ich but also limiting the period they are kept from a tank full of pods and suitable food.

Two questions a:

1. I assume I am OK to transfer the mandarins directly to the main tank after the TTM is completed
2: If I ensure the gear used is completely dried for 24hrs between use is the use of bleach as critical. I assume the use of both ensures that no ich is present when the items are reused.

Thanks

 

[Spar]

1. I assume I am OK to transfer the mandarins directly to the main tank after the TTM is completed
2: If I ensure the gear used is completely dried for 24hrs between use is the use of bleach as critical. I assume the use of both ensures that no ich is present when the items are reused.

1 - 4 weeks is still optimal, but is completely your call. you will have at least ensured that no Ich will be transferred, but you still need to worry about other things, namely velvet and brook. you can feed mandarins Nutramar Ova while in QT and most will accept it nicely. if you do want to limit to just the 12 days, buy from a source that can guarantee they do not use non-therapeutic levels of copper in their holding tanks as this will mask and potentially defer the effects of velvet and brook... at least if the fish hasn't been exposed to copper before then they will likely exhibit signs during the 12 day period rather than later.

2 - i don't personally use bleach as i know my equipment stays dry for at least 24 hours, generally closer to 48+ hours for me. but, bleach is an easy additional step and you do not have to worry about negative effects given bleach evaporates into salt.

 

[tmz]

1. If they are healthy.

2. No bleach is necessary . Thorough drying is fine.

When I qt'd manadarins I fed some cyclopeeze and small bits of mysis and used a bubble up filter. The manadarins like to pick at the sponge for food gathered there.

 

[LA ICK WARRIOR]

Tank transfer method water quality

Tank transfer method water quality

From what I understand I would transfer my 1st tank fish into a new tank/bucket with 100% new salt water? seems damaging to the fish considering its not cycled. the only thing I think will help is the corner filter which is cycled. but its contaminated.. Your thoughts?

 

[LA ICK WARRIOR]

Transfer method water quality

Transfer method water quality

From what I understand I would transfer my 1st tank fish into a new tank/bucket with 100% new salt water? seems damaging to the fish considering its not cycled. the only thing I think will help is the corner filter which is cycled. but its contaminated.. Your thoughts?

 

[jbvdhp]

Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method

From what I understand I would transfer my 1st tank fish into a new tank/bucket with 100% new salt water? seems damaging to the fish considering its not cycled. the only thing I think will help is the corner filter which is cycled. but its contaminated.. Your thoughts?

It won't matter if the water is cycled or not. The fish are only allowed to stay in the tank or tub for no longer than three days. Thus there's no real ammonia that builds up over the three days and if there is you use ammonia detoxifier.

Have you read the thread?

And you cannot use contaminated water for the transfers.