Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method

Ok so I did another transfer yesterday as suggested which was day 12. ~ 72 hours would put me into Wed (day 15) when I can move them to the 30 gal QT tank for the 4 to 6 week stay. Trouble is I just found out I have to go back into the hospital tomorrow afternoon for a couple more days. Would I be ok moving the fish tomorrow to the QT tank before I go which will be day 14 or should I try to have my wife move them on day 15?

Since one of them is a 5 " Blonde Naso I want to ensure that any ICH is gone! I have seen no signs of anything since I got them that would leave me to believe there is any issues. Have all eaten great for the last 13 days. Real pigs!

Early is fine. Bring your IPAD to the hospital and good luck!
 
I just completed the day 10 transfer this morning and noticed the QT temp had risen to 30 degrees Celsius. IT is still pretty warm here in Queensland around this time. Will that affect the cycle of the ich parasite or am I right to continue. I planned to do the final transfer to a tank for QT over the next four weeks for observation on day 13. I will then treat with prazi and hopefully finish up with some happy disease free critters.

Thanks
 
I just completed the day 10 transfer this morning and noticed the QT temp had risen to 30 degrees Celsius. IT is still pretty warm here in Queensland around this time. Will that affect the cycle of the ich parasite or am I right to continue. I planned to do the final transfer to a tank for QT over the next four weeks for observation on day 13. I will then treat with prazi and hopefully finish up with some happy disease free critters.

Thanks

it wont impact the parasites so you are good to keep on going, but you really should get control of the temperature for the fishes sake. high temps will reduce the oxygen levels of the water and also result in undue stress when the point is to keep fish calm during QT... and 30 degrees is really up there obviously!
 
it wont impact the parasites so you are good to keep on going, but you really should get control of the temperature for the fishes sake. high temps will reduce the oxygen levels of the water and also result in undue stress when the point is to keep fish calm during QT... and 30 degrees is really up there obviously!

What he said. I keep my display tanks around 24 C because I feel the fish and corals are healthier. However I have been in Southern Oz a few times when it was really warm so I do not know how you are going to do that.
 
it wont impact the parasites so you are good to keep on going, but you really should get control of the temperature for the fishes sake. high temps will reduce the oxygen levels of the water and also result in undue stress when the point is to keep fish calm during QT... and 30 degrees is really up there obviously!

Agree on thigh temp not being ideal. I am running high airtime and it was only this one night. Things are usually run at 26C. It is already Autumn here and it is still over 30C during the day. At least it keeps the water warm when we go snorkelling abound the reef.
 
I just completed a 12 day tank transfer process for some new fish and was pretty happy with the process. I cleaned everything with bleach and then dried them for a minimum of 24hrs. I am comfortable I didn't comtaminate.

After the process though I had a chance to question my process. During the period I had a mesh top on the tank to prevent jumpers and moved this to each tank. One thing I noticed post TTM wa that the mesh had signs of salt creep which I assume was from the bubbles from the air stone. Is it possible that ich could have accidentally been transferred to the mesh and then possibly dripped back into the next tank. Can ich be aerated? Weird question I know but just wondering. The fish are all in a final QT for observation over next four weeks so if I stuffed up the process then I can recover and start the TTM again.
 
I just completed a 12 day tank transfer process for some new fish and was pretty happy with the process. I cleaned everything with bleach and then dried them for a minimum of 24hrs. I am comfortable I didn't comtaminate.

After the process though I had a chance to question my process. During the period I had a mesh top on the tank to prevent jumpers and moved this to each tank. One thing I noticed post TTM wa that the mesh had signs of salt creep which I assume was from the bubbles from the air stone. Is it possible that ich could have accidentally been transferred to the mesh and then possibly dripped back into the next tank. Can ich be aerated? Weird question I know but just wondering. The fish are all in a final QT for observation over next four weeks so if I stuffed up the process then I can recover and start the TTM again.

There is small chance of contamination but IMO, the odds are very low. A different mesh top would be preferable.
 
There is small chance of contamination but IMO, the odds are very low. A different mesh top would be preferable.

I have two lots of egg crate. That way in the future I can hose down and dry the egg crate between uses. Then I can be absolutely sure. Will see how the fish go in QT for th next four weeks. If ich is present I assume it will show.

How long will it take for ich to show in the QT if it is present.

Thanks for reply.
 
I went the opposite route with the tops - bought a large sheet of acrylic at Lowes and had it cut down to size to fit over my 10g tanks, and then simply swapped them out at each transfer. They're cheap, a breeze to clean, and help keep salinity stable.
 
I went the opposite route with the tops - bought a large sheet of acrylic at Lowes and had it cut down to size to fit over my 10g tanks, and then simply swapped them out at each transfer. They're cheap, a breeze to clean, and help keep salinity stable.

Excellent idea.
 
I

How long will it take for ich to show in the QT if it is present.

Thanks for reply.

Average life cycle is 3 weeks. However, the nature of the back end of the life cycle makes that time frame problematic. If you want 100% guarantee, redo tank transfer. I think the odds are low, however.
 
Average life cycle is 3 weeks. However, the nature of the back end of the life cycle makes that time frame problematic. If you want 100% guarantee, redo tank transfer. I think the odds are low, however.

thanks. I will observe them in the main QT for the time being and at least get them eating 100% and treat with Prazi. I wil then consider a round of tank transfer prior to being released into the main display tank.
 
Okay well I've been lurking for a while, time to contribute.

I've used tank transfers on clownfish, clown goby, yellow tang, barnacle blenny, chromis before with good success. None of my fish have shown signs of ich. I only have 2 clownfish in my breeder. The other fish were given away.

FYI: Tank transfer appears to have no effect on Black Ich, the tang disease. What helped was malachite green for black ich. Freshwater dips relieved black ich but did not cure it.

Now I'm tank transferring a juvenile Blue Tang with CONFIRMED ich. This will be the ultimate test. I kinda want to do more than a 14 day tank transfer period, knowing the tendency of these guys to be ich magnets.
 
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FYI: Tank transfer appears to have no effect on Black Ich, the tang disease. What helped was malachite green for black ich. Freshwater dips relieved black ich but did not cure it.
The TTM is designed around the life cycle of a particular parasite - cryptocaryon irritans. I don't think the thing called "black ich" is actually cryptocaryon, so it is not surprising that TTM did not help.

Freshwater dips don't cure ich and, other than reducing the load of flukes on an infected fish, don't accomplish much else as far as I know.
 
The TTM is designed around the life cycle of a particular parasite - cryptocaryon irritans. I don't think the thing called "black ich" is actually cryptocaryon, so it is not surprising that TTM did not help.

Freshwater dips don't cure ich and, other than reducing the load of flukes on an infected fish, don't accomplish much else as far as I know.

Exactly. Freshwater dips have little to no effect on ich. They are useful to diagnose flukes and to relieve the symptoms of oodinium (but not cure it).
 
The TTM is designed around the life cycle of a particular parasite - cryptocaryon irritans. I don't think the thing called "black ich" is actually cryptocaryon, so it is not surprising that TTM did not help.

Freshwater dips don't cure ich and, other than reducing the load of flukes on an infected fish, don't accomplish much else as far as I know.

+1

"Black Ich" is actually a turbellarian (related to flukes), not a protozoan like Cryptocaryon irritans. Prazipro is the appropriate treatment.
 
I agree. Black ich is a tiny tubellarian faltworm(Paravortex), not a protozaoan like cryptocaryon irritans. . It is easier to see on lightly colored fish but may infect many; not just tangs. Formalin or prazipro should kill it on the fish . The tank may harbour some for a period of time though. Usually it does not persist like crytocaryon irritans. Some do recoomend leaving the tank without fish for a month or two to starve it out. IME, that hasn't been necessary.
 
Prazipro was what I used to rid the black ich.

Blue tang going into display this saturday. Completing prazipro treatment and tank transfer.
 
I have a sailfin that I bought that showed signs of ich. I commenced tank transfer with him and so far he is at Day 10 the following is his transfer history:

Day 1 transfer into first tank to commence process
Day 4 transfer to next tank
Day 7 transfer to next tank
Day 10 transfer to next tank

I have cleaned with 50:50 bleach between uses and dried everything for a minimum 24 hours as well.

Today he is breathing heavy and when you look from the top he looks like he has some pimples on his sides. When you look at him from the side there is no evidence of white spots on the sides or fins. The pimples show due to the shadowing from the light I suspect when you look from the top. I plan to go one more transfer at Day 13. I will then put him in a tank with hypo for 4 weeks. What could have contributed to him still showing pimples. Does ich leave bumps/injury after the parasite leaves the host and that is what I am seeing. Assuming I have followed the process correctly I can't see how the ich could still exist on his body. I thought it only stayed on the fish for 7 days maximum.
 
I have a sailfin that I bought that showed signs of ich. I commenced tank transfer with him and so far he is at Day 10 the following is his transfer history:

Day 1 transfer into first tank to commence process
Day 4 transfer to next tank
Day 7 transfer to next tank
Day 10 transfer to next tank

I have cleaned with 50:50 bleach between uses and dried everything for a minimum 24 hours as well.

Today he is breathing heavy and when you look from the top he looks like he has some pimples on his sides. When you look at him from the side there is no evidence of white spots on the sides or fins. The pimples show due to the shadowing from the light I suspect when you look from the top. I plan to go one more transfer at Day 13. I will then put him in a tank with hypo for 4 weeks. What could have contributed to him still showing pimples. Does ich leave bumps/injury after the parasite leaves the host and that is what I am seeing. Assuming I have followed the process correctly I can't see how the ich could still exist on his body. I thought it only stayed on the fish for 7 days maximum.

doesn't sound like ich, but i am having a brain freeze on what the bumps may be caused by. when Ich jump off the fish that is when you see the white dots, which are the exit wounds from them popping out of the skin. they are way too small to cause noticeable bumps.

what equipment and hiding places are you using during TTM? any chance that something sponged up some of the bleach not allowing it dry completely?

what size tank are you treating him in?
 
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