Cully's Double D's

[magdelan]

Oh and the bulkhead above the larger one with the 2" 90, is an emergency overflow drain. It will be used for water changes as well and will be hard plumbed to the houses plumbing.

How will this work? Where will the water be coming from that will exit this drain?

 

[shawna1972]

Very nice work. Coming along great! water coming any time soon? lol jk It's hard with kids I know this all to well.

 

[Capt_Cully]

How will this work? Where will the water be coming from that will exit this drain?

Its an emergency overflow exit point. If there is a power outage or any other unforeseen disaster, it will be a link in my chain of defense. Any overflow of the sump will drain out before it over flows. I'm going to also use it to discard water during water changes.

Other defenses include siphon breaks in returns, waterproof stand pan, bean animal double safe overflow drains, and a gate valve.

 

[mr86mister]

Interesting sump set up Marky Mark. We're getting there! Soooo close.

 

[Capt_Cully]

Got most of the plumbing done today. Frigging mess. Close quarters, limited on time but got it basically set for a FW test. Gotta run some extensions and finally brace the floor yet, but I'm closing on it.

Still trying to figure out a way to brace the upper portion of the return plumbing. Down low I have supported it, and I can snug it to the tank stand like I did with the overflow pipes. Up top though, its up against the tank and I don't really have a way to snug it or support it. I guess I could rig something on the canopy one I get that in place.

Any suggestions?

 

[iamwrasseman]

home depot has thoes J hangers and they are made of pvc also so you can cut them to the correct length and then simply glue then to the piping wherever needed to support the "return" correct ? they hold really tight and if glued they will never move . just making sure your talking about the return though .

oh yes and it looks like a nice job so far ! good work Mark

 

[Henry Colf]

Lookin good Mark!!!!!

 

[toddmh]

looking good Cully ..

 

[sean obergfell]

Taking your time makes it so sweet in the end............its so worth all the time your investing...

Very Nice!

 

[Conesus_Kid]

Freakin' sweet, my friend! :thumbsup:

Any way you can drill a few holes in the top of the tank's trim and use some zip ties to hold the return plumbing to the top of the tank?

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

lookin good!

lookin good!

regarding supporting plumbing runs:

Standoffs and J hangars are the usual options. Wire coat hangars can sometimes be used.

 

[Capt_Cully]

Made some tweaks. Like the ideas guys. Not gonna get too excited until I get the canopy on. I can jerry-rig some support prior to the FW test.

Got the siphon break drilled. Returns are aimed back toward the overflow box to, in theory, perpetuate the gyre.

 

[Capt_Cully]

Ok, got the cross brace and support poles squared off. I was able to level out the steel base plates a bit better. I also used some nonslip carpet remnants under the poles to help a bit and accommodate for the little bit of unevenness that remained, though I think it was negligible.

 

[Capt_Cully]

 

[Capt_Cully]

Man these cell phone pics blow, but you get the idea, and its way more convenient.

RO/DI is up and running, but I should probably waste the initial 25 gallons or so as the filters, membrane, and resin are all spanking new.

Thoughts on wasting?

 

[Jacwil]

Lookin' awesome Marko!!!

I just got a new ro unit a few weeks ago...I let it run for about 4 hours before I captured any product water.

 

[Capt_Cully]

Too late, mines been running, collecting for about 2 already

 

[Capt_Cully]

Follow these simple instructions when installing new prefilters, reverse osmosis mem-branes, or deionization resin. Some filters should be flushed when first installed. “Flushing” is no more complicated than running water through the filter without delivering the flush water to other stages in your water purification system.
Hint: An easy way to flush new filters is to temporarily install it as the final stage in your system and allow the flush water to go to a drain.
Sediment Filters No need to flush sediment filters unless otherwise specified on the filter label.
Carbon Blocks Manufacturers recommend flushing carbon block cartridges for at least 10 minutes.
GAC Filters Filters containing granular activated carbon should be flushed for at least 10 minutes, or until the flush water runs clear. Catalytic GAC filters (used to treat tap water containing chloramines) achieve full efficiency after being wetted for 12 hours.
RO Membranes Manufacturers recommend flushing at least 2 gallons of water through new dry RO membranes to remove preservatives before using the product water. Don’t run flush water through later stages in your system. Wet membranes should be flushed for 2 hours, or as specified on the membrane label.
DI Resin Run approximately 1 gallon of flush water through new DI resin before using the product wa-ter. Avoid contaminating (bacteria/mold/fungus, etc.) DI resin. Minimize storage time. Store DI resin in an airtight container with no airspace to keep it moist. Keep DI resin in an opaque container to avoid exposure to light during storage. Shipping bags are appropriate for long term storage. Treat your resin gently! If resin is exposed to freezing temperatures during shipping, allow it to warm at room temperature for 24 hours prior to use. Pack resin as tightly as possible in cartridges.

Russ

Found this in my old RO thread. Not following it, but its the Buckeye supply recs.

 

[iamwrasseman]

looks like your good to go mr. Mark !

 

[Ellery]

Man awesome work - I haven't been on in while and this sounds like tank #5 for you in the last 5 years. Good luck! I wish I have the $ to rework my entire system.