Custom Sump Build

Kgross with the size and spacing of the different areas there is plenty of room to get into and do a proper glue up. The pin-method works wonders, but i think the biggest hassle is the prep work being good flat gluing surface.
 
I would agree the biggest hassle is the prep. But how do you do the pins on the end of the baffles? You can on the bottom, but you don't have any way to create/reduce the spacing between the front/back to make/reduce the gap on the ends of the baffles, which is where they need the most strength.

Kim
 
I've never used the pins on the sides and this is probably the 20th sump I've done and haven't had any issues with weakness in the joints.....I should have mentioned all my sumps regardless are eurobraced as well....In the past I haven't had any dry or partial joints glueing baffles in like that or bubbles for that mater. I should have had my friend finish the glue surfaces on the jointer the other day, but he was busy....He owns an acrylic shop, so I do get quite a bit of practice and scrap pieces to practice on as well.....If he would just cough up the 1" acrylic for the plywood tank I'm building as well:D
 
Sorry to bug you, but what is your thought on teeth cut into the panel going into the next compartment vs. a cutout and a rounded smooth edge?
 
I don't think it makes much difference between the teeth or rounded edge, other than the rounded edge is much easier to make.....


Lots of practice does help, for most people building it in that way makes it harder to build.......

Kim
 
Sorry again about crappy pics but a joint not using the pin method
Sump%20Build
 
Hard to see the pic looks better on photobucket, but that is the worst joint....I found a blonde hair in it from my wife:mad2:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14764063#post14764063 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chriscobb
With having a fuge in the sump itself would it be redundant or a waste to run a RDSB as well?

IMHO, all of the processes that occur in a sand bed filter, should already be taking place in the main tank. (Unless you run a bare bottom.) IME the sand bed in the tank is sufficient to accomplish the task. So in some instances, the "fuge" could be considered redundant as well. It is bio-diversity that stabilizes a tank, not necessarily adding more stuff. It is all dealing with nutrient export, ie to free nitrogen gas in a sand bed, and "binding it" in the case of macro algae in a "fuge", and removal by harvesting the macro. IMO, it is better to encourage the diversity and population of the sand bed, in the main tank.

Regards,

Jim
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14764063#post14764063 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chriscobb
With having a fuge in the sump itself would it be redundant or a waste to run a RDSB as well?

I would say hold off on the RDSB for a few months and see how your nitrate levels are. Hopefully you will have enough export with the fuge and display tank, but if you don't you can add the rdsb later on.

Kim
 
Thanks Jim...was planning on bare bottom tank so was going to have the sand bed remotely.....I've always run SSB in the past except for a brief time in late 90's I was running bare bottom.
 
Running bare bottom seems to come and go for periods of time. Some still cling to it. The benefits of a sand bed whether DSB in the display tank or a RDSB, far outweigh the effort it takes to get them to maturity. I just don't see trying to get them both going-- . I did not know you were planning a bare bottom, at least I added the qualification.

Regards,

Jim
 
Thanks Jim....at some point I guess I should do a build thread...I'm building a plywood tank and now just waiting for fiberglass cloth, and still in the process of finishing the fishroom as well. Kinda sucks watching mud dry, so as I await parts and such I get alittle done on each project. I just got my acrylic tubing in for my ca reactor as well....I'll be posting more pics as the sump progresses so stay tuned....
 
Thanks Kgross, sounds like a solid idea of holding out and seeing if really needed....trying to plan and have tentative ideas on placement on this in the fishroom. That way if they are needed I know where I actually have the room to add.
 
Working out the baffles now, and alittle more curious as to what height everyone uses for the gap or spacing on the middle baffle for the water to go under??????? Also what about spacing?
 
1", 1.5", or 2" depending on flow rate through the sump. mine would be spacing and gap the same. I don't use a formula, or rule of thumb for determining at what flow I change the measurement. It could be figured out mathematically as flow through a pipe, but I suspect that a 1" gap would flow more than a 2" pipe would. 12, 16, 18, 20 sq. inches (depending on width) as opposed to 3.141592654............. sq. inches....:smokin:

Jim
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14777745#post14777745 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tylert
what kind of weld on do you use for the acryllic sump?

Weld-on 3 or 4, with Weld-on 4 being preferred because it sets a bit slower.

Jim
 
I went with 1 1/2" for bubble trap separation & also same for height of middle baffle off bottom. All three baffles are cut the same size. I used 2x4 scraps to create the gaps.
 
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