Cyano don't go away!!! Help!!!

[So Cal shaggy]

Cyano is difficult to pinpoint the exact cause of but some of the reasons are:
1. poor water quality (never use tapwater always use RO/DI)
2. too much nutrients in the water
3. not enough flow both in the main tank and in the sump/refugium

always try to get rid of it without resorting to chemicals it takes time and can be tough but it will eventually go away it will always be present in the aquarium it is actually all over the live rock but you cannot see it the only time it can be seen is when there is a population explosion of the bacteria. The best approach to get rid of it is medium sized water changes more than once a week also if you are running carbon look at the brand some of the cheaper brands contain phosphates which help feed the cyano. Also a big problem is the sandbed nutrients will build up in it and help feed the cyano if you have a sandbed try not to disturb it do not vaccum it this will release unwanted nutrients into the water if it is very dirty get sand cleaning animals to clean it (lots of small hermits, sand sifting stars, assorted snails) this will help to keep the sandbed clean and loose.

 

[Amphiprion]

The bottom line of things that influences cyanobacterial growth is phosphate. These bacteria do not need nitrate at all to flourish. However, when given a phosphate source (either dissolved in water or in the form of detritus) in the absence of any nitrate, cyanobacteria will grow quite well. So, you need to limit phosphate sources as much as possible= get rid of detritus (and keep it from settling with proper water flow), do water changes, refugium, or phosphate adsorption media. Basically, what most other folks are saying. It is long and difficult, but it can be done without chemicals.

 

[Oliver Nivbrant]

thanks everyone for you great responses, its helped alot! My tank is just over 1 year old so it would be suprising if it was a phase of tank development. I use tap water to replace evaporated water and i have tested this water. It has no phosphates and i use prime to condition it. I get my water from the sea, I live in Perth, Western Australia so the water is close to the most pristine in the world.

I suck the algae off the rocks and suck almost daily but it still grows back. I am going to change my old nori for some new sheets, but i need it for my tang so i can't dispose of it fully. I am asking my lfs if they have these chemicals that excist but since i have a reef i doubt that they will be safe.

Can the algae go away if I start adding kalkawasser?? I don't atm. I have a Tunze skimmer and it is the best out there, it runs 24/7. I also have a refugium with macro algae.

Thanks again for all your help and i look forward to putting this problem behind me!

 

[wojo]

what do you mean by 'old nori' ? how ofter do you replace the weed sheets?

 

[xtm]

I want to comment on the Erythromycyn stuff.. I've used it and it DID clear out the Cyanobacteria on the sand.. just clean, white sand. About 6 months later, the Cyano is back.

I tore down the whole tank and started fresh - this time with right equipment: RO water, good flow, correct lighting, strict water change schedule - 1 year and still NO cyano.

 

[So Cal shaggy]

collecting water

collecting water

Oliver Nivbrant wrote:
I get my water from the sea, I live in Perth, Western Australia so the water is close to the most pristine in the world.



Where are you collecting water from? I mean are you just gowing down to the beach and collecting or are you going offshore to collect it. The reason I ask is because nearshore water contain higher amounts of nutrients if you want to collect truly pristine water you need to travel at least 20-30 miles offshore and even then you might still have problems.

 

[buzzee]

A very effective method is as follows:

It has a 90% chance of success.

Ensure your phosphate/nitrate levels are reasonable and that you have done regular water changes. Small levels will not be an issue as this will soon be gobbled up.

If using Natural seawater, check levels of ammonia and nitrate and Po4.

If ok then we carry on....

Buy a large bottle of triple distilled SMIRNOV Vodka and dose with an intial dose of 3 millilitres per 100 litres. (Dose this during the first initial evening directly into the sump or overflow).

The following morning, cut the dose down to 1 millilitre per 100 litres per day, but divide the amount in half and dose morning and night.

EXAMPLE...500 litre tank = 5 ml per day, so 2.5 ml in the morning and 2.5ml in the evening.

Keep dosing for as long as you wish.

Your cyano, and diatoms will start to melt away within one to two weeks.

I dose this on a regular basis.

Let us know how she goes!

Craig

 

[jumpincactus]

One thing that was mentioned earlier in this thread by someone is carbon if you are using it. Even if you are using a name brand carbon soak some in ro water for about 15 mins and then check for phosphates. The process used to make and clean carbon can often cause phosphates to leech out of the carbon into your tank. This is more common than a lot of people realise.

Check around and only use high quality carbon if you use it at all.

 

[Oliver Nivbrant]

I have probebly had my nori sheets for over 6 months. I have them in a plastic bag though with the gel stuff in the paper bag. i'm guessing this is pretty old but the nori still smells and feels as i think it should.

this idea of smirnov. Won't the fish get drunk, hahaha. Could i use any type of spirit or does it specifically have to be smirnov

 

[buzzee]

I have found the triple distilled works best.

Im not sure in Smirnov is the only one, there may be another brand similar, but if you can get it, i would advise it.

 

[LOTUS50GOD]

I have used Chemi-clean with great results. But the chemiclean is only good for killing it... If you water falls out of parmeters, the cyno will return